Originally Posted by bengal-stripe
The English rule is ‘tight to toe’.
Originally Posted by Orgetorix
What does that mean?
Calf leather stretches more in one than in the other direction. That direction can change within the skin.
So the clicker checks for stretch and lays his pattern pieces accordingly, before he actually cuts.
“Tight to toe” means the tight, less stretchy direction points towards the toe (lengthwise on the shoe);
while the more stretchy one goes cross-wise.
On the continent they might be doing things differently. From a German source:
The stretch of the leather is important for placing the pattern-templates onto the hide. For example the template for the vamp (forepart) must be placed onto the skin that the leather can be stretched length-wise but not crosswise. On the other hand the template for the quarters (side-pieces) must be put in a way that he leather cannot stretch,length-wise, because with wear it could widen by Â½” or more and the shoe would loose its shape.
So the German source says ‘tight to toe’ for the quarters, but ‘loose to toe’ for the vamp.
Whether Austro-Hungarian shoemakers operate the German way, I wouldn’t know.
It is basically bovine leather that has stretch. Shell cordovan has very little, neither has reptile.
In reptile leather it’s the markings that will determine the way it is cut.