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Stepping up to bespoke? - Page 4

post #46 of 74
Quote:
Originally Posted by Will
I learned this practice from a now deceased guy who was considered one of the best dressed men in America and I've continued the practice for roughly forty years. Savile Row for the city, Hong Kong and Martin Greenfield for the country. And it's hard to see a difference, particularly in coats, tweeds and corduroy trousers.

Will, can you elaborate a bit on this? What do you mean by "hard to see a difference"? Are you less demanding, in terms of fit, for country clothes, or do you think that the materials they're made of are naturally more suited to MTM?
post #47 of 74
The process and product of bespoke make an interesting narrative. It seem very holistic and sorta like jazz where if you have to ask then you will never understand.
post #48 of 74
We get it already. You don't think bespoke is worth it.
post #49 of 74
Quote:
Originally Posted by DocHolliday
Will, can you elaborate a bit on this? What do you mean by "hard to see a difference"? Are you less demanding, in terms of fit, for country clothes, or do you think that the materials they're made of are naturally more suited to MTM?

I am picky with both but not overly so. I put the stuff on and forget about it.

Overcoats and odd trousers are principally straight seams. The principal difference is the curve of the trouser over the buttocks - bespoke beats MTM all hollow there but it's something that's not seen under a jacket.

DBs are bespoke because the MTMs are too boxy but I think for single breasted jackets the differences are like comparing Fallan & Harvey to Thomas Mahon. Different silhouettes but they are both good suits.
post #50 of 74
Quote:
Originally Posted by FLMountainMan
From my thinking, it was best for my first bespoke to be from a cheaper fabric/style - seersucker - so that my investment wouldn't be too significant. This way, even if my choices were lousy, or if the tailor turns out to be inept, I haven't sunk too much money into it.
For years I bought OTR, and I always had problems with the fitting. So, about one and a half years ago, I decided to go bespoke. A friend of mine recommended a tailor. I chose a rather cheap cloth (the suit costed me around EUR 700 (USD 900); I guess that Madrid is far cheaper than NY when it comes to this kind of issues...). Choosing a cheap cloth was a good choice, as it turned out: the tailor made a lousy job, and after wearing the suit a couple of times, I gave it away to charity. Actually, it turned out that the tailor's main business was to rent tuxedos. I guess that he was not used to make suits to somebody like me (I am very tall for Spanish standards, for example).
Then, I asked some people and I was told that the department store chain "El Corte Ingles" was known to have good tailors in their bespoke department. So I tried it, and I have had two suits and an odd jacket made there, and I am quite satisfied. The suits cost me around EUR 1300-1500 (approx. USD 1700-USD 2000). Also, I enjoy talking with my tailor.
However, I have some doubts concerning the roll of the lapels, the placement of the buttons, etc.
Now, the other day a went to Zegna and ordered an MTM odd jacket (charcoal "cashco") and trousers, and I ended up paying the same amount (EUR 1400/USD 1800). So, I wondered, isn't it a mistake to pay the same for MTM as for bespoke (assuming that the qualities of the cloths are the same)?
The same evening, out dancing, I met a retired tailor (supposedly a good one) and I asked him what he thought about it. He said that although El Corte Ingles has rather good tailors, the problem is that the avarage skill of the professionals is not what it used to be, and also that you do not really know what you will get until the product is finnished. Instead, using Zegna MTM, you know that you will get a quality product, that will fit you good enough. Basically, he recommended me to use MTM.
I guess I will continue trying both alternatives.
At present, the option of trying a more expensive bespoke tailor, or going to London for it, is out of the question.
post #51 of 74
Maybe I'm missing something, but why would you spend $4K for a bespoke suit that is going to spend most of its time sitting on a hanger in your closet? For that amount of money, I think you would get much greater enjoyment out of two pairs of bespoke shoes or a nice mechanical watch that you can wear on a regular basis.
post #52 of 74
because you need something to wear with the 2K bespoke shoes
post #53 of 74
Thread Starter 
I have no problem fitting into RTW shoes, and I have a few watches, if nothing big time. And though I don't have a huge problem for suits, pants, and sportcoats, I'm not the easiest fit.
post #54 of 74
Quote:
Originally Posted by chorse123
I'm curious to hear from some of you regarding your decision to order your first bespoke suit. When did you make the decision? What made up your mind? I'm toying with the idea right now. I don't have a huge need for a suit, nor do I even have the money right this moment, but it's something I would love to do, and am considering saving for one suit. I generally shop the super-discounts, but have been able to get a number of garments of very high quality which I love and which fit well, though far from perfectly.

Of course, for the cost of Option A (one true bespoke suit, say, $4000), I could order Option B: a MTM suit, MTM jacket (or two), and a few pairs of trousers from someone like Mr. Ned. Oh and a pair of special order Gaziano Girling shoes.

Oddly enough, I think my wife would probably support Option A more. Then again, it would probably mean I couldn't buy anything ever again without catching some grief.

I suspect I will get flak for this, but I have decided almost certainly never to order a bespoke suit. I don't have the most sophisticated palate when it comes to clothes, but I have come to the conclusion that made to measure suits are good enough for me. I do have bespoke shoes, and a bespoke watchstrap, though.

I am particularly hard on suits. They simply don't last long enough to justify the spending involved. Depending on the fabric used, even with two pair of trousers, I usually wear a hole in the crotch within a few years. I have had linings sewn into the trousers, and some have suggested that a skilled tailor could actually solve this problem, but with the current survival rate for suits in my closet, I can't see spending $4,000 or even $2,000. For garments that go so quickly.

Bic
post #55 of 74
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bic Pentameter
I suspect I will get flak for this, but I have decided almost certainly never to order a bespoke suit. I don't have the most sophisticated palate when it comes to clothes, but I have come to the conclusion that made to measure suits are good enough for me. I do have bespoke shoes, and a bespoke watchstrap, though.

I am particularly hard on suits. They simply don't last long enough to justify the spending involved. Depending on the fabric used, even with two pair of trousers, I usually wear a hole in the crotch within a few years. I have had linings sewn into the trousers, and some have suggested that a skilled tailor could actually solve this problem, but with the current survival rate for suits in my closet, I can't see spending $4,000 or even $2,000. For garments that go so quickly.

Bic

What exactly are you doing that wears a hole in the crotch? Keep in mind this is a gentleman's forum
post #56 of 74
My only advice is if you decide to go the bespoke route, you should not cut corners. Find the absolute best maker available.
post #57 of 74
Quote:
I usually wear a hole in the crotch within a few years.

huh? Maybe your MTM pants are too tight?
post #58 of 74
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dragon
huh? Maybe your MTM pants are too tight?


I have pretty big thighs, and I walk a few miles every day...To the station, to the office, to the gym. Boxershorts and jeans also wear out first in the crotch. This happens with trousers that are not too tight.


Bic
post #59 of 74
that sucks Maybe you should shop around for more tailors. There is a chance that the right tailor would be able to fix your upper thigh/crotch area problem and make each garment last much longer than your current suits. In the end, each suit might cost more than you are spending now on MTM, but since they would last longer (maybe) the cost would even out or be cheaper than your current wardrobe.
post #60 of 74
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bic Pentameter
I have pretty big thighs, and I walk a few miles every day...To the station, to the office, to the gym. Boxershorts and jeans also wear out first in the crotch. This happens with trousers that are not too tight.


Bic

Perhaps you should try using hardier cloth.
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