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***Official Franco Ercoles Bespoke Thread (Brooklyn/Manhattan)*** - Page 57

post #841 of 1185
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by DLJr View Post


Careful, things start to get on your short list fast, and that short list becomes quite long. Though this may be my own problem, I email Jeremy too much.

You ain't kidding...imagine of you lived down the block.

On a side note, Mike and the gang are going to KILL me, I just bought a bunch of vintage overcoating that may even be heavier than the last piece I did with him. One will most certainly be a great coat, but the other (this is double faced Holland and Sherry, one side Blue and Grey Houndstooth, the other a grey/blue twill) I'm thinking of something more casual. What do you guys recommend?
post #842 of 1185
Heavier than the Capone coat? Are you moving a few thousand miles north?
post #843 of 1185
Thread Starter 
One of these may just be heavier, and may even be 20 years older. The Capone Coat was from 1936, I haven't dated the cloth yet, but I could conservatively say that the cloth could easily be from the 1920s. Here's a shot:






Detmer started in 1885 and moved from Manhattan to Brooklyn in 1909 after a fire in their Manhattan offices. I bought this piece at the same place on Delancey where I got the CC. I'm basing the date on the handwriting "Sponged", the wear on the Detmer Tag and the sheer weight of the cloth. What really gets me about this very old overcoating was that my Uncle, Vincenzo Dondiego, was one of America's best coat makers in the 1920's and 1930s (he had a list of celebrity clients topped by Flo Ziegfeld himself) but eventually killed himself in 1931. To think that he may have had something like this in his capable hands that long ago, and then being able to wear a similarly made coat, gives me goosebumps.

Its a beautiful Espresso Brown color with a subtle herringbone.
post #844 of 1185
Make a suit out of it.
post #845 of 1185

I love the color on that. Would love to find the same type of color in a barley corn for a great coat. I'm assuming this was purchased along with the fabrics you picked up for the ties? Glad to see that Yellow Hook isn't holding you back from Frank too much haha.

 

How about a fly front chesterfield for something different?

post #846 of 1185
Tell us more about Delancy
post #847 of 1185
Quote:
Originally Posted by patrickBOOTH View Post

Make a suit out of it.

 

This isn't The London Lounge.

post #848 of 1185
Quote:
Originally Posted by Eustace Tilley View Post

This isn't The London Lounge.

^Well-played, good sir.
post #849 of 1185
Quote:
Originally Posted by ThinkDerm View Post

Tell us more about Delancy

It is a street.
post #850 of 1185

Gents,

 

I am interested in trying Mr. Ercole for the first time.  It sounds like I could save some money going to go to their Brooklyn site instead of the Manhattan one?

 

Any general guidance on how to approach this?  I havent used a MTM/Bespoke tailor before...

post #851 of 1185
I haven't noticed a difference in price depending on the location. Have you?
post #852 of 1185
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ennius View Post

Gents,

I am interested in trying Mr. Ercole for the first time.  It sounds like I could save some money going to go to their Brooklyn site instead of the Manhattan one?

Any general guidance on how to approach this?  I havent used a MTM/Bespoke tailor before...

I am not sure that the price is any different anymore. I couldn't be sure. You would save money by going to brooklyn and selecting a fabric off of his wall rather than ordering from a book in Manhattan.
post #853 of 1185

Regardless, if you do choose to use Ercoles, I would suggest going to the Brooklyn store for the bolts of fabric as PBooth mentioned. At the very least, it's a better education on fabric than the Manhattan shop would be if this is all new to you.

post #854 of 1185
I think it is safe to also note that there is a difference between a suit made by Frank and a suit made by Ercole. Both get the job done, however Ercole is much more set into his house style and would be more difficult to get to do something he doesn't want to do. I have suits made by both Frank and Ercole. Basically Ercole likes structure and a very clean chest and roped shoulders. While Frank can do this, his stuff if you don't give him any input will come out looking like the "wedding" suit that somebody posted recently. Kind of middle of the road structure and shoulder, however Frank is much more willing to make a softer garment, unpadded shoulders, drapey chest various shoulder treatments. Ercole is unconvinced this is what is proper in a suit these days.
post #855 of 1185

Thanks Gents for the input. 

 

A few questions:

 

What roughly is the price for suits and trousers?

 

PB - you had some pictures of a sweet grey suit in the first several pages of this thread.  I like the trim look but probably with just a bit more space.  Was that made by Frank?  How did you guide him to that style?  I have a Phineas Cole suit that I like - should I wear that in and suggest it as a decent starting point for discussions?

 

Thoughts on the price/quality tradeoff on fabrics as I an a relative newbie.  I have seen a few super 160/180s with 5% cashmere that looked great - do people think its worth a few hundred for top of the line fabric?  What are good fabrics for spring/summer?

 

Great thread.

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