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***Official Franco Ercoles Bespoke Thread (Brooklyn/Manhattan)*** - Page 41

post #601 of 1162
Quote:
Originally Posted by Axelman 17 View Post

I think this looks good but would benefit from more cut-away quarters, particularly on the first coat. Right now the jacket has a Y shape whereas I like something more )( . I have encountered the same issue on some of my stuff from Frank, I think his natural tendency is to cut something with your quarters.

I agree, I think they would look much better slightly longer too.
post #602 of 1162
Quote:
Originally Posted by patrickBOOTH View Post

He can do it with some shirring, or puffiness, but he generally wants to do that on more casual kind of stuff.

Is his father the one who knows how to do the shoulder?
post #603 of 1162
It is either of them. But if you ask for any kind of spalla shoulder with a suit from Ercole be prepared to be yelled at.
post #604 of 1162
I can always dish it back fight[1].gif
post #605 of 1162
Thread Starter 
I've always taken the advise from this forum with a grain of salt (albeit valuable at times) and I think the whole "You need more open quarters" is a lot more relevant when a person is of a certain build and stature. I know everyone here woo's over the open quarter Neapolitan stuff, but it doesn't work on everyone...
post #606 of 1162
Quote:
Originally Posted by patrickBOOTH View Post

I agree, I think they would look much better slightly longer too.
agreed. half inch would add to the balance.
post #607 of 1162
Quote:
Originally Posted by NewYorkRanger View Post

I've always taken the advise from this forum with a grain of salt (albeit valuable at times) and I think the whole "You need more open quarters" is a lot more relevant when a person is of a certain build and stature. I know everyone here woo's over the open quarter Neapolitan stuff, but it doesn't work on everyone...
slightly more would make the jacket look like it fits better. too closed quarters makes the jacket look slightly oversized.
post #608 of 1162
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by ThinkDerm View Post

slightly more would make the jacket look like it fits better. too closed quarters makes the jacket look slightly oversized.

For someone like me though, open quarters makes me look more "hippy" which is the primary gripe most people on here have with my stuff. The guy in the photos seems to look very bulky as well, and perhaps open Q's on him would create the same issue...
post #609 of 1162
Quote:
Originally Posted by add911_11 View Post


These looks really good, what fabrics are they?

 



The first one is golden bale h. lesser 11oz.  the second is a john g hardy lambswool.  the final is a harrison's moonbeam

post #610 of 1162
I personally feel the hips on your stuff looks fine, however it is exacerbated by the very waisted look you like and very fitted chest. I think your suits would look much better with *gasp* more drape in the chest to balance out the top half. That is what I have Frank do my my stuff now. I have teh love handles from when I was a fatty and more in the chest balances the hips.
post #611 of 1162
Quote:
Any other pics of ercole's spalla camicia? Can he do it both with and without wrinkles? PB's looks pretty good

I think Frank is open to doing it with the "wrinkles". I asked him about putting a bit more curvature in the breast pocket, and he seemed more than happy to do it and it sparked a little conversation. He said he tends to steer away from that and putting "wrinkles" in the shoulders because most people don't get it. Maybe Ercoles is different, but Frank seemed like he was wishing for more people to ask him for neapolitan touches. This was my only ever conversation with Frank, so take that for what it is.

post #612 of 1162
Quote:
Originally Posted by DLJr View Post

I think Frank is open to doing it with the "wrinkles". I asked him about putting a bit more curvature in the breast pocket, and he seemed more than happy to do it and it sparked a little conversation. He said he tends to steer away from that and putting "wrinkles" in the shoulders because most people don't get it. Maybe Ercoles is different, but Frank seemed like he was wishing for more people to ask him for neapolitan touches. This was my only ever conversation with Frank, so take that for what it is.
what did you get made at Ercole's?
post #613 of 1162

A navy birdseye two piece suit and a shirt. If all goes well, there will be several more shirt orders, another suit, and a jacket in the very near future. The necessities in my work wardrobe just changed drastically so it seemed like a good time, and excuse, to start investing. It's a hike for me to get up there (coming from Philadelphia area) but it certainly seems like I made the right decision so far. I'll try to take pictures at the fittings.

post #614 of 1162
Quote:
Originally Posted by DLJr View Post

A navy birdseye two piece suit and a shirt. If all goes well, there will be several more shirt orders, another suit, and a jacket in the very near future. The necessities in my work wardrobe just changed drastically so it seemed like a good time, and excuse, to start investing. It's a hike for me to get up there (coming from Philadelphia area) but it certainly seems like I made the right decision so far. I'll try to take pictures at the fittings.

looking forward to it.
post #615 of 1162
Quote:
Originally Posted by DLJr View Post

I think Frank is open to doing it with the "wrinkles". I asked him about putting a bit more curvature in the breast pocket, and he seemed more than happy to do it and it sparked a little conversation. He said he tends to steer away from that and putting "wrinkles" in the shoulders because most people don't get it. Maybe Ercoles is different, but Frank seemed like he was wishing for more people to ask him for neapolitan touches. This was my only ever conversation with Frank, so take that for what it is.

I already mentioned this earlier in the thread but I had a similar conversation with Frank. However i didn't get the impression that he necessarily wanted people to ask for typical Neapolitan touches. He said he didn't want to make a 3 roll 2 because most people, especially coworkers, won't understand it (and it makes dry cleaning difficult). I mentioned the breast pocket also but he didn't give me any indication that he wanted to try a new style. His views on the jacket took me by surprise and gave me pause but we were on the same page when it came to the pants. Overall I was a little bummed about our conversation because Frank seems like a good guy to do business with. But realistically, it didn't seem like having to push back to get a 3 roll 2 or barchetta pocket was a good foot to start on. Maybe as more people ask him for these features, he'll develop this style but it didn't seem like he was interested in doing it for me.
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