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***Official Franco Ercoles Bespoke Thread (Brooklyn/Manhattan)*** - Page 34

post #496 of 1143
Spalla camicia without a doubt
post #497 of 1143
I haven't see Frank's spalla camica. I didn't know he did it.
post #498 of 1143
He says he is able to do it, although I haven't seen it in person. I'm sure his father knows how, but I can't say for certain.
post #499 of 1143
Most of the stuff he has made for me has it. It is clean set though so not as apparent as the puffy Mina shoulders. I like it, it is subtler. His father also yells at me for insisting on it for suits. He asserts that it should be done on more casual things only.
post #500 of 1143
Thread Starter 
Yea Frank's Spalla is a real "Brooklyn-Napoletan" shoulder, a lot cleaner than the ones you see from Naples. Its a different animal. I've started with roped shoulders with him, then moved to his Saplla, and now am back to roped...
post #501 of 1143
OK guys, here it is. I got 2 suits from Frank, a wheat fresco and a navy. They look good, but are a little longer in the back than in the front. I like the dark brown buttons on the fresco. The fresco pants came out very well; they fit and drape beautifully.

Thanks to forex for recommending the fabrics and for his continuous help and advise along the way.

Of course, feedback is welcome:

93a2df17.jpg

This vent is extending:

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This vent looks great:

7a90cac3.jpg
Edited by mkarim - 7/28/12 at 9:05pm
post #502 of 1143
...and the navy (pants needed some work in the front):

0695903e.jpg

63544ec6.jpg

cd884c82.jpg
post #503 of 1143
Hopefully someone with good eye will chime in, I think that the balance on both jackets is a bit off. Wheat jacket seems shorter on one side, that might be causing the vent on one side to open. Navy jacket has a balance issue as well, back slightly longer that front.
I also think that lapels could stand to be a little wider, maybe by half an inch, wheat jacket shoulders look great, like it a lot.
post #504 of 1143
Thread Starter 
Having seen these on you in person, I now see how damn difficult photography is. The wheat suit is fantastic, but the color just doesn't show in these pics. As far as lapels, you're a slim guy, I think going any bigger would border cartoonish to me, put that's just personal taste. Even with the balance issues, when we were in the shop you couldn't tell...I wonder if all of these balance issue that seem to pop up in every bespoke thread are just the fact that we're standing awkwardly. Whatever the case, they are so miniscule irl, I don't think its even worth tinkering. Bespoke is a custom process, but because the maker in human, it'll never be a perfect one.
post #505 of 1143
MKarim, can you share what you asked for that yielded the differences in the shoulders between the two jackets?
post #506 of 1143
Quote:
Originally Posted by NewYorkRanger View Post

Yea Frank's Spalla is a real "Brooklyn-Napoletan" shoulder, a lot cleaner than the ones you see from Naples. Its a different animal. I've started with roped shoulders with him, then moved to his Saplla, and now am back to roped...

Well, keep in mind, not all shirt-set sleeves from Naples are of the sort you describe. In fact, I would say that the versions exported for those who want "Neapolitan" tend to be more obvious and exaggerated. The ones on my jackets are very subtle.
post #507 of 1143
Quote:
Originally Posted by mkarim View Post

...and the navy (pants needed some work in the front):
0695903e.jpg
63544ec6.jpg
cd884c82.jpg

I think this looks pretty good. Two things right off the bat: (1) is the front balance a bit short are you leaning back in that side photo? and (2) breast pocket is crying out for some curvature.
post #508 of 1143
Quote:
Originally Posted by forex View Post

It is not finished yet. For a suit like this one, I would not do Neopolitan shoulder, I would do natural shoulder or maybe even a bit roping with minimal padding. No padding if possible.

The "Neapolitan shoulder" refers to the way the sleeve is stitched to the body, not the shoulder line.
post #509 of 1143
I wasn't referring to the shoulder line, I don't know how you read that.
I am glad that you noticed short front on the navy jacket.
post #510 of 1143
On the breast pocket. I definitely agree. His standard, as Axelman has stated looks a bit like a band-aid.
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