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***Official Franco Ercoles Bespoke Thread (Brooklyn/Manhattan)*** - Page 31

post #451 of 1169
Quote:
Originally Posted by brooklyn View Post

I went to Ercoles this afternoon to have some pants taken in and decided to finally have a suit made. I explained to frank that I wanted to have a navy suit made where the jacket could also be used as a blazer. Basically a blazersuit. I looked at a few books but diidnt decide on the fabric. Frank was going to pull some things that where in my budget and show me when I go back for my pants. I am looking for something I can wear year round but now very little about fabrics. Any tips or suggestions when I go back?

 

Look at any decent 11oz.-12oz. book. Lesser's 11oz. book and Smith's Blue Riband are good starting points. I'm also a big fan of Dugdales' Royal Classics collection (which'll also be cheaper than Lesser / Smith.)

post #452 of 1169
If you want a navy suit jacket that can stand in for a blazer, look at a heavy plain weave, like the 14/15oz fresco in H&S Crispaire (actually made for H&S by Huddersfield/Minnis, I think.)

IMHO, for a navy suit jacket to pass as a odd jacket, it needs either the hopsack-y texture of the above or you need to rusticate it with details like patch pockets and so on.
post #453 of 1169
Quote:
Originally Posted by Eustace Tilley View Post

Look at any decent 11oz.-12oz. book. Lesser's 11oz. book and Smith's Blue Riband are good starting points. I'm also a big fan of Dugdales' Royal Classics collection (which'll also be cheaper than Lesser / Smith.)

Quote:
Originally Posted by F. Corbera View Post

If you want a navy suit jacket that can stand in for a blazer, look at a heavy plain weave, like the 14/15oz fresco in H&S Crispaire (actually made for H&S by Huddersfield/Minnis, I think.)
IMHO, for a navy suit jacket to pass as a odd jacket, it needs either the hopsack-y texture of the above or you need to rusticate it with details like patch pockets and so on.

Wow - two answers like that within the hour and they still say the quality of SF has been going down the drain.
post #454 of 1169
Quote:
Originally Posted by Eustace Tilley View Post

Look at any decent 11oz.-12oz. book. Lesser's 11oz. book and Smith's Blue Riband are good starting points. I'm also a big fan of Dugdales' Royal Classics collection (which'll also be cheaper than Lesser / Smith.)

Thanks for the response and will be sure to keep this in mind when I go back
post #455 of 1169
Quote:
Originally Posted by F. Corbera View Post

If you want a navy suit jacket that can stand in for a blazer, look at a heavy plain weave, like the 14/15oz fresco in H&S Crispaire (actually made for H&S by Huddersfield/Minnis, I think.)
IMHO, for a navy suit jacket to pass as a odd jacket, it needs either the hopsack-y texture of the above or you need to rusticate it with details like patch pockets and so on.

I agree with you about having a texture similar to hopsack but I am not sure how the pants would look. I considered patch pockets but I think it would make the suit to casual for work. They had a similar jacket in the window and when I asked frank about what they used he pulled out the Scabal book which was way out of my price range. Since this will be my first suit from them I don't want to break the bank.
post #456 of 1169
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by brooklyn View Post

I agree with you about having a texture similar to hopsack but I am not sure how the pants would look. I considered patch pockets but I think it would make the suit to casual for work. They had a similar jacket in the window and when I asked frank about what they used he pulled out the Scabal book which was way out of my price range. Since this will be my first suit from them I don't want to break the bank.

If you can, save for the better fabric. To me it doesn't pay to save a couple of hundred bucks on fabric when you spend upwards of 1.5K on a suit. It'll be worth it in the long run as well. As long as he's not showing you the $5000 suit books. I'm pretty sure you'll be able to find a good fabric that won't kill you. Even if you order through minnis direct for a good fresco/flannel it will cost around $500 for a suit length, but I know Frank's upcharge on fabric is very low, and offsets the cost or need to go get fabric on your own. As a tailor he generally can get better prices buying fabrics wholesale than folks like us going the retail route. Good luck!
post #457 of 1169
Quote:
Originally Posted by NewYorkRanger View Post


it doesn't pay to save a couple of hundred bucks on fabric when you spend upwards of 1.5K on a suit. It'll be worth it in the long run

 

+1

post #458 of 1169
Blazersuit question:

I am in the final stages of completing a Minnis Fresco RAF blue blazersuit with Ercoles. I am getting brown horn buttons on the coat. Question: should I also get brown horn buttons on the rear trouser pockets and the button fly of the trousers (there are currently dark blue/black buttons I think)?

Second question for Ercole vets: when getting a side-vented jacket, has Frank sewn in a "belt" between the two sides, running underneath the rear flap of the vent?

Thanks
Goph
post #459 of 1169
I didn't specify the buttons on pants so they are either blue or black. Coat buttons are brown horn and yes on the stitching on side vents, it is just decorative.
post #460 of 1169
Thread Starter 
I don't ask for the belt between the two vents...and I usually have my trouser buttons match the buttons on the jacket.
post #461 of 1169
Thread Starter 
Also think its about time the thread title was changed...biggrin.gif
post #462 of 1169
I tried Chan for two suits and spent about $1,500-1,700 on each, and am not thrilled with them. I think not having multiple fittings really hurt the end product. I'm going to try Ercoles for a herringbone tweed jacket and if that works out probably buy a grey flannel suit.
post #463 of 1169
Quote:
Originally Posted by NewYorkRanger View Post

I don't ask for the belt between the two vents...and I usually have my trouser buttons match the buttons on the jacket.

I think the back pocket buttons should definitely match the coat buttons, no? But what about the fly? I have a button fly--even though there is a fabric fly front covering them, would brown horn buttons stand out too much there (i.e, be a distraction or look affected)?
post #464 of 1169
Can't get in to a fitting on my next suit. Too busy. frown.gif
post #465 of 1169
Quote:
Originally Posted by gopherblue View Post

I think the back pocket buttons should definitely match the coat buttons, no? But what about the fly? I have a button fly--even though there is a fabric fly front covering them, would brown horn buttons stand out too much there (i.e, be a distraction or look affected)?

I would get all the buttons the same color, I cant envision a situation that would call for a different approach. I will also say that unless you expect a lot of people to be staring at your crotch, I think you are over thinking this one.
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