***Official Franco Ercoles Bespoke Thread (Brooklyn/Manhattan)*** - Page 14
Frank calls this a rivetted shoulder. Rob correct me if I am wrong. I have it on one suit. I think a nice alternative to the straight up neapolitan shoulder is open round, where the seam is pressed open with just a bit of wadding. I also have this an another suit. Rivitted is a little more dense in the sleevehead, almost a slight rope. Open round is natural looking, soft and as A&S would say, "breaks down over time".
I asked her to cut longer coats and she said she would, we will see how they turn out. Better not be short.
I see I am not the only one who thinks the coat is short.
Edited by forex - 1/30/12 at 9:23am
He probably could have done it faster if I bothered him more, but the weather here has been so mild that I didn't mind holding onto some cash for longer,
Mina will happily cut a longer coat on request, and does so well. Its also worth noting that Mina's shorter coat does look better balanced that the one shown - the Neapolitan cut does account for the shorter length by pushing everything else upward - a higher buttoning point, gorge, pockets etc. Imo, its a more harmonious look.
PB: That being said, your Ercole doesn't look bad at all - a dead-on shot would be more helpful in assesing fit. You may also want to think about incorporating some of the Neapolitan elements discussed above on your next suit.
I was in the Manhattan shop. I cannot get to the Brooklyn shop during the week with work and whatnot. I assure you that my coat in comparison to yours is rather yawn-worthy.