so you think the neapolitans know alot about clothes? why? i'd like to know. i think they know alot about clothing construction. i respect that kiton suits are handmade and most neapolitan clothing is made mostly by hand. i applaud isaia and kiton for not using shoulder pads. that doesn't mean they know anything more about design than you or me, or anyone else.
Personal remarks aside, why do you think Kiton and Isaia do not use shoulder pads?
Â Forum members, please back me up and name ONE maker that does not use shoulder pads at all. Isaia uses two layers of shoulder pads, each made up of a linen-cottonfelt-linen layer, where the center piece of cotton felt is a thin piece, thus it feels light. Â English makers use a slightly heavier piece of cotton felt, thus it feels heavier. Â Kiton uses different kinds of pads --- and if I were to send your comments to Marcello or Carmine at Kiton in NY I could only expect the worst.... Secondly, they do not design suits. Â They models were drawn, well, chiefly from the English, with slight modifications. Â In fact, I doubt any of the tailors even use pen and paper to 'design' their suit models. Â They usually fit their suits over a mannequin and make modifications on it directly to create the ready-made models you see in stores. Â As humble as we should in the area of sartorial arts (unless you are a tailor yourself with 40 years of experience), I think I will put my trust in their judgement (note: 'their' includes the Neapolitan tailors, the English tailors, and certain Milanese tailors --- we are NOT talking about Gucci). Â Now about your analogy on singers vs. tailors. Â I assume you are referring to pop singers. Â Please do know that modern pop singers usually have no participation in the creation of the music (writing one or two songs in an album maybe) --- try asking Britney Spears to complete some music theory assignments, let alone to compose. Â A tailoring house, on the other hand, though having tailors at different jobs at a workshop, actively participate in the entire process of the creation of one suit, even the choice of fabrics; and in the case of Kiton, the exclusive choices of fabrics. Â Look through a CD of yours and see how many different composers, arrangers, lyricists, not to mention managers and producers. Â And then look at your suit and see how many labels are on it --- ONE. Â Because a suit is produced from one place with one idea within one tradition. Â No matter how out-of-style you think double breasted suits are, they will keep producing them, because they ignore the trends of fashion and obey only their philosophy and tradition. Â To draw a parallel to your comments: you seem to be very much into pop and rock music. Are you well versed in all style of music and ultimately made a choice in what you like, or are you just being dictated by the endless rock stars and boy bands? Â Do you know jazz? Blues? 12-tone Serialism? Minimalists? Abstract expressionism? Â 19th century Romanticism? 18th century Gallant style? Â Do you know about Italian madrigals? Â I don't know them all either, so I will follow the footsteps of the masters from Beethoven to Wynton Marsallis. Â Please have a proper attitude when you visit Naples. Â You don't go there to see what you are 'supposed' to like. Â You can do that from textbooks. Â Don't waste your plane tickets. It's only 9 in the morning. Â I am sure other members who are more eloquent could write something more intelligent in response. Â Hope this will simmer down in this frightful 90F heat in New York ....