I do not think that individual craftsmen should necessarily sit down and make a whole suit from start to finish. I think that the master tailor/proprietor should take measurements, make a pattern himself or assign that to the cutter, and have an in-house team of tailors each doing one stage of the assembly of the suit, from basting the canvas to sewing buttonholes - division of labor.
Yes, but my point is that nearly ALL reputable Savile Row firms outsource.
What you are buying from these folks is a brand, plain and simple. What the brand stands for is what you get. Here in the forum, apparently, the brand also gives you bragging rights.
I disagree strongly with this - I think very few of the members, are bragging when they mention brand-names. What are we supposed to do, say 'I've got this great jacket, I really love the way it fits, and it has lasted forever, but I can't tell you the brand name because I don't want to brag' ??
Thank you Vero Group. What you are buying from a high-end tailor who charges you $3000 for a suit is bragging rights - "Where did you get that suit?" "I had it custom made by a master tailor."
That's ridiculous - if you want bragging rights then go buy Armani. Â Why buy a suit with no label from a guy nobody has ever heard of?? I think the VAST majority of men who buy custom clothing do so because they love clothing and they know the difference. It is not an "affectation". What you are a buying from a master tailor is a suit that fits you like no off-the-rack suit can, that hides undesirable physical characteristics, and that is the product of incredible knowledge and skill. Its purpose is to enhance YOU, not to draw attention to itself.
Except for assertions to the contrary from parties who stand to profit by doing so either financially (tailors et al) or in prestige (fat cats et al) there is no really convincing evidence that handing sewing, with some exceptions, contributes significantly to a garment at all.
Again, a ridiculous assertation. I believe a similar statement would be: 'despite arguments by those who stand to profit from selling $300 jeans, there really is no difference between your favorite Rogan's and a pair of $20 Wranglers from WalMart.' Â }:I Some handwork is obviously done for primarily aesthetic reasons. Aesthetics are important. But a lot of handwork does have real benefit over machine-stitching when it comes to the fit and comfort of a garment. Especially when it comes to the attachment of the arm and the sewing of the lapel and the canvas. A sleeve that has been attached by hand is far more comfortable. And nothing can duplicate the perfect roll of a handsewn lapel. Overall handmade garments DO fit much nicer. You may not be able to tell the difference LA guy, but you don't wear a suit every day. I think it would be best to leave the suit reviews to us "suits" and we will agree to acknowledge your superior wisdom on all things denim
Also, I might point out that you are young and probably slim. So designer suits are likely to fit you better than a handmade suit that is targeted, and cut for, an older man.
They are nice - but I've also tried on suits with much, much, less handiwork that fit and look better. I can only attribute this to the importance of cut and material over handiwork.
Yes, cut is obviously more important than handwork. If the suit does not fit then no amount of handwork is going to make it work for you. But I'd bet that if you took Â that machine-sewn garment that fit you so well and had the cut copied exactly by an artisan tailor, you would prefer the handmade garment to the machine-sewn one by a large margin.
Similarly, there certainly are many makers (e.g. Belvest and SaintAndrews) that make lots of suits for stores' private label; in my experience, salespeople don't talk about the hand-sewing, etc, when they have customers try these suits, they just let the customer try on the suit, see how it feels (better than the rest of the stock), and see how it looks (ditto). If the store could get the same quality of garment for less money (due to lower cost of production of omitting the hand-work but doing everything else exactly the same), I think they would, since they could sell the garment at the same price and therefore make a larger profit. Why don't they do this? Because the hand-work makes the garment better (if it's done properly and in the right areas).