My Charvet shirts were surprisingly disappointing. I received my first three, and they fit too tightly around the chest. They also didn't have split yokes nor buttons on the sleeve placket, which I specifically asked to have. I speak fluent French so I know there wasn't a translation issue that caused the mistakes. If I lived in France, I'm sure that I would try to make it work with Charvet, but it's simply too difficult living in the US. On a positive note, I've discovered Alexander Kabbaz, who I now believe to be the best shirtmaker in the world. He is obsessive about fit and has extraordinary tailoring skills. I have a 10" drop from chest to waist, but he is able to make a shirt snug at my waist, yet well-fitting at my chest, and is able to do this without darts (.). I also very much like his fabric selection which includes some antique (60 year old+) cottons made by David & John Anderson. According to Kabbaz, David & John Anderson were the best cotton fabric makers many years ago, and while the company no longer exists, Thomas Mason uses the label "David & John Anderson" for their top-of-the-line 200 English count yarns. Alex Kabbaz also demonstrated to me how gussets are simply a short cut to avoid a more difficult side seam stitch that he showed me. I've never had shirts come close to fitting as well as his shirts do. On another positive note, Kabbaz recommended Jon Green to me for bench-made suits, and Green has proven to be my favorite suitmaker by a wide margin. Overall, a lot of happy developments in my sartorial quests.