Bespoke Overcoat - Page 6

My tailor has often mentioned that mid-calf is the right length for a DB overcoat. I get mine maybe an inch below the knee.

Yes, that's what I meant: ultimately, you, as a bespoke customer, decide what's acceptable for you.

According to expert tailors gained from generations of experience on what looks and fits best. Of course, you can wear anything you like

But an inch below the knee is not mid calf. And where are you measuring from. To me the knee on an average man is about 4" long. The best length is to the top and if you like it longer than at the bottom. That's the knee, below that is the shin.

some nice coats here especially the alpaca

http://shop.oconnellsclothing.com/ou...et=0&nLimit=20

Yes, that's my point, that I'm a bad boy who strays from the norm. But Manton is right, whether you and I like it or not, mid-calf is the norm.

Well I guess if it's a Loden coat then they're cut longer because they originated with shepards who were out in the elements all day but a long coat unless it's very light is uncomfortable to me unless you're just using it as a walking coat.

Russian wool coats extend almost down to the ankle. Go watch Dr. Zhivago if you want a historical reference. Length is a function of necessity, which is dictated by how cold it is. Tired of noobs inventing timeless rules of tailoring out of nothing. Whether Manton's coat makes him look like a stringbean or not has nothing to do with any objective criterion of correctness. Since you acknowledge that ideal length is relative to the height of the wearer, I don't see what you're babbling on about.

Start at 1:20.

Which tailors were these and from what shops? And I guess it's not so important on a tall man but observe mid calf length coats on short men this winter and tell me what you think. Doesn't it emphasise their shortness?

The design of a garment is a mix of aesthetics, comfort, and (as holymadness says) practical considerations. And this all feeds into personal preferences. The length of a coat is not different in this regard.

But what does this have to do with the discussion of a bespoke coat on Manton who's obviously not short?

Noob picked the wrong IS to mess with. For reference, Manton is tall - 6'4" at a guess.