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Good tailor in Vancouver? - Page 33

post #481 of 508
Quote:
Originally Posted by blazingazn View Post

That's awesome, glad to hear that Blair really is a class act like everyone claims.

I'm excited to find out that they are still made in Canada!
Do you know where is it cut and sewn in particular? Somewhere locally? in Vancouver? or is it sent out?


Thanks for the great updates?
Maybe a few shots of your finished suit?

He's awesome. I took the pants back a week after I received the suit to get altered because I wanted them a bit slimmer. I was also on a very tight deadline and he was slammed with lawyers getting called to the bar and needing gowns and whatnot and he managed to have it and returned to me a day early.

The suits are made in Montreal. 9 working day turnaround time + 5 or so days for shipping. I actually just went and ordered a second suit today. Went with a 3-piece and it worked out to under $1,000, which is phenomenal in my opinion. As I've already said, you can get MTM done cheaper but they are made in China and even with the correct measurements, you're almost guaranteed to have to take it in for further tailoring. I'll gladly pay the premium to skip all that.

I will try and get some shots next time I wear it!

Cheers
post #482 of 508
Quote:
Originally Posted by bawlin View Post


He's awesome. I took the pants back a week after I received the suit to get altered because I wanted them a bit slimmer. I was also on a very tight deadline and he was slammed with lawyers getting called to the bar and needing gowns and whatnot and he managed to have it and returned to me a day early.

The suits are made in Montreal. 9 working day turnaround time + 5 or so days for shipping. I actually just went and ordered a second suit today. Went with a 3-piece and it worked out to under $1,000, which is phenomenal in my opinion. As I've already said, you can get MTM done cheaper but they are made in China and even with the correct measurements, you're almost guaranteed to have to take it in for further tailoring. I'll gladly pay the premium to skip all that.

I will try and get some shots next time I wear it!

Cheers

 

Thanks for the information you have provided thus far.

 

I would very much appreciate it if you would post some pics.

post #483 of 508
Also intrigued...

pics please..
post #484 of 508

Hello Vanocouverites, some of us are planning a meetup on another thread.  Pudman43 is planning it out, so send him a PM, or post in the thread if you are interested in coming out.

 

I know that this post is off topic, but I am posting here because I know some people subscribe to a limited number of threads, and may have missed Pudman's post.

post #485 of 508
Did you guys' have a location sorted? ^

TAILOR IN VAN: Just took a New Schott into Rose Stitch for an adjustment. Will update upon it's return. If she did a horrible job I purpose the Van meet-up take place outside her establishment. I will supply dozens of organic eggs. And spray paint.
post #486 of 508
Hate to resurrect a necro-thread, but does anyone know if Modernize is still in business? I've been trying to get ahold of someone there but haven't had any success. If they aren't, are there any other recommendations for good bespoke tailors in town?
post #487 of 508
Considering that I had some alterations done there about 3 weeks ago, I'm pretty sure they're still around.
post #488 of 508
Quote:
Originally Posted by Wayward View Post

Considering that I had some alterations done there about 3 weeks ago, I'm pretty sure they're still around.

That's great to hear. Do you have any idea what their bespoke suiting prices are?
post #489 of 508

Here are some pictures of my dad's stroller jacket and morning trousers, made by Blair Shapera.  They were made on site - I saw them in various stages of construction at fittings.  The waistcoat was bought online, but Blair (or his staff) altered it.  He also ordered the tie through Blair; made to order, but ordered from a supplier.  He also handled all of my alterations on my Tuxedo, and my vest and shirt for my morning dress.  The whole experience was absolutely phenomenal.  The service was great.  His sense of style is a little bit Vancouver, meaning not necessarily classic, but he listens to what you want and delivers it.  He suggested the fabric for my Dad's morning trousers, which was similar to a cashmere stripe, but versatile enough to wear with any blazer.  He also was quick to suggest the jacket should be one-button for a stroller, which my dad went with, even though he was a bit nervous about a one button jacket (he had not had one before, I think - always two button jackets).  I had had a hard time convincing my dad that the one-button would work, so I was pretty happy with that. But, more to my point, Blair knew that one button was going to look more formal, and therefore more appropriate.  The jacket takes five pounds off my dad when it's open, and at least ten pounds off of him when it's closed.  I would definitely recommend him for alterations, or for jackets and suits.  His alteration prices are quite competitive.  I paid $35 for a vest to be taken in at the sides, and any garment needing any number of buttons added was a flat $10.  All around a great experience, and a great end result.

 

 

 

 

 

post #490 of 508

So, may as well bump this thread...

 

Just out of curiosity, anyone ever had anything made at Can America (shirts, downtown) or James Custom Tailor (West Broadway)? There's just about nothing on either of 'em on the googles or in this thread so far, so I thought I'd ask. There's a blog post by the son of the guy who owns James - http://blogs.ubc.ca/bondlai/2011/03/02/james-custom-tailor/ - which implies he makes his own stuff (not just a measure-and-send-it-out shop), but that's about it.

 

Oakridge gets busier and busier, but are still doing good work, in case anyone's wondering. They know me quite well by now. Last time we chatted, William mentioned they might start the custom business up again when they get older and are looking for something more interesting and lower volume (but less lucrative), but right now they're just doing alterations because it's a better business.

 

I went to Modernize to get the sleeves on my new dinner jacket shortened (as Oakridge were on vacation for three weeks and I needed it done for Oscar night) and had the usual Modernize experience - like doing business in 1964, but once they found the right bits of paper and I remembered how you pay for things with "cash" or a "cheque", everything worked out well enough! They did a pretty decent job on the jacket.

 

One of the famous brothers' sons (Steven) seems to be taking a more active role in the business than last time I was in there, he's fun to talk to and sure talks like he knows the business, though I don't know if he's doing any work on the clothes or is just the front-of-house guy. He seems to have convinced his father and uncle to start offering more options in terms of quality/handwork for custom made stuff (smart business choice in a market like Vancouver is these days, but they need to advertise...): we talked for a bit and he said they're basically offering three levels of quality, I didn't go into crazy detail but it sounds like they're doing half-canvassed, mostly machine-stitched at the low end for about $1k-$1.2k, some kind of medium quality middle range option, and fully canvassed, hand sewn, super old-school style for $2k+ (depending on fabric). Still doing all their work in-shop, it seems. I might drop in next week and take a look at their fabric range; I think I might regret it in ten years if I don't have at least something made by one of the Wong brothers and it's not an option any more.

post #491 of 508

BTW, another outfit I found about which there's just about no info available online is Balsam on West Boulevard:

 

http://balsamtailors.com/

 

they have a rather busy blog at http://www.cindyandbalsam.blogspot.ca , but couldn't find any external feedback or discussion here at SF. Looks like they do fairly modern American-ish / GQ-y stuff with cheap fabrics by default (I see a mention of $499 for a 'wool blend'...), but some of the work doesn't look too bad for what it is.

 

I need some summer shirts and Jantzen's summer fabric selection is a bit lacking...so poking around locally to see what the options are. In case anyone was wondering, Seville quoted $200 for shirts and they only have Italian cotton fabric, $140 for CMT. Couldn't get Can American or James on the phone yet.

 

edit: Balsam quote starting price $158 for their own material (sounds like a poly blend), $120 for CMT (didn't sound like this is something they do a lot of, but they were willing to do it).

 

more edit!: Can America quoted $175 to $440, $165 for CMT (so...their cheapest fabric is basically free? Huh.)

 

last edit for now: the pricing only gets more surreal: James Tailor quote $80 and up for shirts, $100 for CMT. So apparently their supplier is paying them to cart away their cheapest fabric...or they really need to free up some storage space. :) Still, that's the best CMT price.

 

I think I might order a few rolls of fabric from Acorn and do some test makes. Seems like everyone's in approx. the same price range...


Edited by AdamWill - 3/10/14 at 12:15pm
post #492 of 508

So I've been dealing with Modernize for the last week or so, but I'm not sure I'm gonna get something from them in the end. Their regular books aren't super exciting; they're from a Quebec distributor, British Woollens IIRC, who have a pretty bog-standard range of off-brand English wools. Their summer weight selection is pretty narrow, and all plains. They have a room upstairs in their building with a bunch of random rolls that they've collected over the years, and there's some pretty interesting stuff up there (along with a lot of polyester-mix crap), but nothing that was exactly what I was looking for. I found some pretty neat rolls (some very light cream "Silkaire" which looks like some kinda silk blend, some super-old-school Crispaire in an interesting shade of green, some ancient Super 70s(!) from Yorkshire in a light-to-mid blue with wide red pinstripes...) but I'm not sure they're worth spending quite a bit of coin on having made up as kinda 'novelty' jackets or whatever. Here's a shot of the ones I picked out as possibles - the Crispaire is the top of the two greens, the rest are silk blends and a few I don't-know-what-the-hell-they-ares, all light weights and open weaves.

 

 

 

On my way back from there today I dropped by James Custom Tailor (on Broadway), and was actually pretty impressed. Since there's just about no background I could find online, here's some: he's been in business since 1992. Looks to be in his 50s or 60s. He says all the work is done in the shop (you can see the workroom from the shop front). He has a nice wide selection of Italian shirtings in cotton and linen (and a few blends) in various weaves and qualities - five or six decent sized books' worth, more than I was expecting. I was able to find a couple of pages of nice 120s 2-ply checked chambray (or 'chambré' as the books have it) and ordered a test shirt in one of those. Price for that was $200+tax, with MoP buttons. He does have some superfine quality stuff, 200s and above, at appropriately ludicrous prices, but he didn't try and foist any of that on me or anything.

 

He has a decent range of suitings too: several Holland & Sherry books, some Dormeuil rolls in stock, maybe some others I didn't see. I remember at least the Snowy River Lightweight (7oz), Cape Horn, Summer in the City, and Key West II books. Didn't see Crispaire, but I might've missed it. Prices are 1400-1900 base price for a 2-piece in the various H&S books; he does fused as standard but quoted only an extra $100 for canvassed. He gave me a turnaround time of 4-5 weeks and I saw some basted fittings hanging up, so definitely more on the custom than the MTM end of things.

 

He's a pretty straightforward, businesslike guy, doesn't give you the hard sell or spiel about how great his work is, which I appreciated. Seemed to know what he was doing when measuring me up for the shirt. Had the usual range of options for collar, cuff, placket, darting etc etc, good balance between giving advice and doing what the customer wants, asked sensible and appropriate questions about what kind of fit I wanted in various places. If the shirt turns out well, I might order a couple more and give him a shot at a suit.

post #493 of 508

I'd like to recommend Mahvash Mobini at Hands-on Alterations and Odd Repairs in West Vancouver, for alterations.  I used to take my stuff to Tony Arletto, and after he retired had a couple of bad experiences with other Vancouver tailors recommended to me.  Mavash has done/overseen a variety of alterations for me, mostly altering dress pants, and I've been very happy with her work.  I feel confident now picking up a pair of pants a size up at auction, knowing she'll transform them to fit me well indeed.  I have yet to take a major jacket alteration to her but have had a few small things done excellently.  Coincidentally, as I discovered chatting with her the other day, Tony Arletto used to subcontract work to her.

 

Mahvash's unprepossessing shop is located at 1347 Marine Drive in West Vancouver.  tel 604 925 4740, email: handsonalterations@hotmail.com

post #494 of 508

So I decided what the hell, I'll go ahead and try something from Modernize. They didn't really have the staple fabrics I was looking for, so I figured I'd go with the flow and order something fun/quirky. So I'm getting a two-piece in the Silkaire stuff; in the photo, it's the stuff that's wrapped in paper, near the bottom of the stack. You can see a bit of the material through a tear in the paper. It's an off-white silk/linen blend in a lightweight open weave, very summer-on-the-riviera ish. My first choice was actually the light blue with red pinstripes, but they don't have a suit's length of that (more like a pair of pants).

 

Decided I'd go pretty close to full-on vintage style (again, go with the flow - you want some old-fashioned stuff made up, go to the guy who actually remembers cutting it the first time around...). Heavy structured shoulders (which I like anyway), long skirt, wide legs, cuffs and pleats on the pants (and no rear pockets). Making the jacket a bit 'blazersuit' style, with patch hip pockets and contrasting (probably dark brown) buttons. Notch lapel, single breasted, two button.

 

Between Steven and Bill they seem to have a reasonable fitting/planning process set up, Bill doing the fitting, Steven working out the design details with you. They're willing to get pretty detailed / personalized when it comes to stuff like pocket customizations. Steven flagged up various possible issues with very light coloured suits, which was helpful - clearly he's been through the mill before, and he says they'll need to do some tests to see how much lining they can get away with leaving out (for coolness purposes) without obvious transition lines showing up, and underwear showing through the pants! I'll see how things look when I go in for the basted fitting...

post #495 of 508

Monologue return!

 

Got my first shirt in from James'. Pretty pleased with it. Fabric is very nice, looks to be quite a lot of handwork on the shirt. Fit is good, might want to do a few tweaks for a second order but pretty close. I'll try and post some pics and comparisons with Jantzen and my regular HK tailor tomorrow.

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