If you have a subscription, shows are at www.firstview.com
. An abbreviated number of shows are available for view at www.men.style.com
I agree with most of RyeGB's views, withone exception. Since I'm lazy, I'll just address the designers he has, instead of going through all the shows, and making notes. After all, I'm not buying, and no one is paying me to write an article. Eh, maybe I'll add some more stuff later.
Trovata: they are a quirky little outfit with an interesting trick: sticking a peppy California surf feel into preppy. However, I don't see how or why they won the emerging talent award last year. They are not that good.
Rag & Bone: Similar. The stuff is eminently wearable (hey, I'll buy some), but they don't really have the chops to make a good runway show yet. Give them a few years, and a better developed design team, and I think the potential is there. However, for the time being, they are a jeans company with some very wearable, and well cut, but nevertheless sideline, pieces. Seriously, Engineered Garments has a deeper repetoire.
Varvatos: It's nice to see the newer silhouettes. I mean, I really like the relaxed silhouette that Varvatos started in F/W 2000, but hey, isn't it time to change things up just a bit every dozen seasons or so? I'm glad that he seemed to take the negative comments about his collections at Pitti Uomo seriously. We'll see how this translates into production though. It's been going downhill for a while now (2000-2001 were the golden years). Wonder how hard the Nautica group is squeezing him, what with the David Chu collection and all.
Ann Demeulemeester - Agree with Rye that this was a strong collection. After years of focus on Margiela and Raf and Dries, it is nice to see Demeulemeester come to the forfront. She has always been one of the strongest and most consistent of the Belgians and the Antwerp Six in particular.
Burberry Prorsum - I agree with Rye. Buyers are terrible when it comes to this label, including those at Burberry stores. Not sure why. They always get two or three strong pieces, and then a bunch of stuff that looks awkward placed together.
Cloak - I've always liked Cloak. I could never wear an entire Cloak outfit, but I'd wear one piece at a time. That's a good thing.
Junya Watanabe- Rye said "Total respect." I completely agree. Ever since his collab with Lewis leathers (F/W 2004?) I have not had anything bad to say about his collections. Except that I can't afford them. Oh well.
Number (N)ine - Um, disagree with RyeGB here. I jus don't think the collection or the designer is particularly strong. It's not particularly wearable unless you are Marilyn Manson, and to say that it is more wearable than Undercover is like saying that someone is less wierd than Michael Jackson.
Kim Jones - I think that his sneakers are interesting, and some of his Umbro collabs. Otherwise, he has been overhyped from day one. He is a one trick pony. Bright, poorly cut gym wear. Stolen from the set of Dirty Dancing. There, I said it.
Kriss Van Assche - with the mediocre showings like Slimane has come up with recently, could be a good successor. Otherwise, Dior should try to tap Helmut Lang for the job.
Thom Browne - complete theatre. It looks like TB (whose suits are actually phenomenal on the rack and when worn so that you are not in danger of losing a limb due to cut off circulation) is getting desperate for a new trick.