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Nigel Cabourn - Page 250

post #3736 of 5237
Hi

Sorry bit of a novice on forums, but I work in clothing production part of my job is to 'check' other companies production and standards.

I want to try something here, simply ask a question, do you, as long time buyers of Nigel Cabourn, feel the move by both the UK company (shirting) and the Japanese company (across the range) to use off shore production and non UK or Japanese cloths has effected the idea of the brand or opened the door for better development?

RAC
post #3737 of 5237
Quote:
Originally Posted by RobinAkira View Post

Hi

Sorry bit of a novice on forums, but I work in clothing production part of my job is to 'check' other companies production and standards.

I want to try something here, simply ask a question, do you, as long time buyers of Nigel Cabourn, feel the move by both the UK company (shirting) and the Japanese company (across the range) to use off shore production and non UK or Japanese cloths has effected the idea of the brand or opened the door for better development?

RAC

Great question
Being British myself certainly influenced the willingness to buy Cabourn as the vast majority of the Authentic range is made from British fabrics and made in Britain.
I did buy the SS12 camo Tenzing jacket knowing that the printing and the fabric was sourced from Italy and I fully understand the desision to introduce lower cost shirts made in Portugal for SS13
I will continue to be enthused by Cabourn as long as the majority of the Authenric range is made in Britain
Because of the diversity of fabrics used in the collections, it's going to be difficult for any designer to use fabrics exclusively woven in the UK - it's a global business
Pertex and ventile whilst having once being made in Britain are now globally manufactured
Cabourn continues to use Harris Tweeds, tweeds from Malleleiu of Delph and fabrics woven by Fox Brothers - all high quality heritage British fabrics woven in very small exclusive batches.
post #3738 of 5237
Quote:
Originally Posted by Eric Gill Sans View Post


Great question
Being British myself certainly influenced the willingness to buy Cabourn as the vast majority of the Authentic range is made from British fabrics and made in Britain.
I did buy the SS12 camo Tenzing jacket knowing that the printing and the fabric was sourced from Italy and I fully understand the desision to introduce lower cost shirts made in Portugal for SS13
I will continue to be enthused by Cabourn as long as the majority of the Authenric range is made in Britain
Because of the diversity of fabrics used in the collections, it's going to be difficult for any designer to use fabrics exclusively woven in the UK - it's a global business
Pertex and ventile whilst having once being made in Britain are now globally manufactured
Cabourn continues to use Harris Tweeds, tweeds from Malleleiu of Delph and fabrics woven by Fox Brothers - all high quality heritage British fabrics woven in very small exclusive batches.

Only tangentially related, but, if you haven't looked at them already, you may be interested in SEH Kelly

post #3739 of 5237
Quote:
Originally Posted by Eric Gill Sans View Post

Great question
Being British myself certainly influenced the willingness to buy Cabourn as the vast majority of the Authentic range is made from British fabrics and made in Britain.
I did buy the SS12 camo Tenzing jacket knowing that the printing and the fabric was sourced from Italy and I fully understand the desision to introduce lower cost shirts made in Portugal for SS13
I will continue to be enthused by Cabourn as long as the majority of the Authenric range is made in Britain
Because of the diversity of fabrics used in the collections, it's going to be difficult for any designer to use fabrics exclusively woven in the UK - it's a global business
Pertex and ventile whilst having once being made in Britain are now globally manufactured
Cabourn continues to use Harris Tweeds, tweeds from Malleleiu of Delph and fabrics woven by Fox Brothers - all high quality heritage British fabrics woven in very small exclusive batches.


Seems like they are following the same pattern as Albam did a couple year back, going from 100% UK to finding the best Europe has to offer.

As long as it's made in Europe I'm good, move production out I expect a large price drop.
post #3740 of 5237
Quote:
Originally Posted by Find Finn View Post


Seems like they are following the same pattern as Albam did a couple year back, going from 100% UK to finding the best Europe has to offer.

As long as it's made in Europe I'm good, move production out I expect a large price drop.

 

Albam don't produce in Portugal because it's the best. They produce there because it's the third-world of Europe, cheap!

post #3741 of 5237
Quote:
Originally Posted by Scott Stevens View Post


Albam don't produce in Portugal because it's the best. They produce there because it's the third-world of Europe, cheap!

Can't remember what they get from there, but I never had any problems with any of their products, I have a lot of it.
post #3742 of 5237
Layering up today
Off to watch football
Mainline shirt, AW10 blue check Mallory, AW12 sweater, AW12 Navy Classic ventile Parka
post #3743 of 5237
Quote:
Originally Posted by RobinAkira View Post

Hi

Sorry bit of a novice on forums, but I work in clothing production part of my job is to 'check' other companies production and standards.

I want to try something here, simply ask a question, do you, as long time buyers of Nigel Cabourn, feel the move by both the UK company (shirting) and the Japanese company (across the range) to use off shore production and non UK or Japanese cloths has effected the idea of the brand or opened the door for better development?

RAC
This is reminiscent of Neil from ARN coming on here under another identity to speak poorly of Cabourn last year. Consider that RobinAkira's only other posts are about the decline of Kato', the other company for which Neil worked, after going mainstream...
post #3744 of 5237

I didn't comment on the quality but Portuguese labour is a lot cheaper, that's why they produce there.

post #3745 of 5237
hey guys I have a question about the mallory jacket and vest
I know that size 48 for mallory jacket fits me perfectly but I'm not sure about the vest
by looking at the measurements form various sites, vest seems to be small.
I think 50 for vest works for me

should I get the same size for both the jacket and the vest?

thank you
post #3746 of 5237
post #3747 of 5237
Quote:
Originally Posted by steviekim View Post

hey guys I have a question about the mallory jacket and vest
I know that size 48 for mallory jacket fits me perfectly but I'm not sure about the vest
by looking at the measurements form various sites, vest seems to be small.
I think 50 for vest works for me

should I get the same size for both the jacket and the vest?

thank you

The waistcoats are tiny. I'm a 46 in the Mallory and a 50 in the waistcoat. Cabourn sizes have always been weird for me. It's a lot of trial and error. The down stuff is huge. I had a 44 Skyliner as all the 46s were massive. 

I'm a 48 in the shirts too so i'd try and go to a shop or find somehere that you can return items easily.

One thing you could do is shrink it if it's too big. I have done the rugged wash with a 48 Mallory, so i don't see any problems doing the same with the waistcoat if it's a bit loose.

 

 

 

 

As for the above questions about the sourcing of materials and manufacture, Cabourn hasn't always made stuff in the UK or Japan. That started mostly with his first Limited edition stuff. The Ascent of Cabourn collection coincided with a new direction in the company. It really established it as a brand that sourced locally in both Japan and the UK.

I remember having Cabourn stuff in the early nineties. It wasn't half as good quality as it is now. (yes i'm old).

Regarding the new (or renewed) manufacturing process, it's a no brainer for the company to make more affordable (but still quite expensive) shirts and other pieces. They are losing a lot of custom to people who aspire to wear Cabourn stuff, but simply can't afford it. I know i can't really, but i manage to get stuff when discounts and sales appear. This is a risk as size 46s were not so common in Europe until recently. 

 

Most people who don't wait for the sale, buy your usual stuff, Our Legacy, Norse and EG to some extent. Good labels, but a level below Cabourn in quality.

Cabourn needs to compete at that level imo as well as the high end market. At a guess i'd say 50% of the Cabourn stuff only sells once the sales start. This isn't good for Cabourn or the retailer. I know Oi Polloi dropped Cabourn as it just didn't sell that well outside the sale.  Having a mid-priced range to compete with other designers make total sense. I have the crazy shirt from AW13 and it's excellent quality. I would still put it above the EG stuff i have and it's probably a little cheaper than most EG shirts. Just because it's made in Portugal or wherever doesn't make it shit. The material is still superb and i can't fault the workmanship either. 

 

People forget how much skilled workers are paid here (UK) and Japan. People talk about the Mallorys, Parkas and Cameraman being too expensive, but the materials are second to none and the craftsmanship is going to reflect the price. 

Buy an OL or Norse wool jacket similar to the Mallory and within a year that jacket will be pretty rough and probably unwearable. I wear my Mallorys EVERY DAY, for work, going out and anything in between. They last a lifetime and look better with age.That makes them cheaper than the inferior products in the long run.

I have had the OL rolling 3 button blazer before. It's long gone, while my older Mallorys are still tip top. You do the math.

 

I just wish he'd never done that Debenhams thing. While the Utility stuff was good quality, they sorta damaged the brand in my eyes. People wacking an Utility Arctic Parka on eBay trying to pass it off as the real deal should hung, drawn and quartered. I think that was the turning point in the company though. They havn't looked back since.

post #3748 of 5237
Quote:
Originally Posted by ike_hiking_boots View Post

what is the difference between the Utility Parka:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Nigel-Cabourn-Antarctic-Parka-new-with-tags-/161205845358

and the Everest Parka:

http://ushowu.com/collections/man/products/nigel-cabourn-everest-parka-in-army-green

 

Can't comment on the quality or the fabrics used, but Utility is his old line.  Sorry if you already knew that, but it's less a reference to the specific garment and more a reference to the brand/line.  Don't know the dates or the full history.  Will say the Utility doesn't look quite as nice with a few less appealing styling details.

post #3749 of 5237
Is the Utility range made for Debenhams?
post #3750 of 5237
Quote:
Originally Posted by ike_hiking_boots View Post

Is the Utility range made for Debenhams?

 

Not sure.  It was just his old his line.  He's since started what we currently have, Nigel Cabourn Authentic.  I'm pretty sure, but somebody else can confirm this. 

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