Originally Posted by steviekim
hey guys I have a question about the mallory jacket and vest
I know that size 48 for mallory jacket fits me perfectly but I'm not sure about the vest
by looking at the measurements form various sites, vest seems to be small.
I think 50 for vest works for me
should I get the same size for both the jacket and the vest?
The waistcoats are tiny. I'm a 46 in the Mallory and a 50 in the waistcoat. Cabourn sizes have always been weird for me. It's a lot of trial and error. The down stuff is huge. I had a 44 Skyliner as all the 46s were massive.
I'm a 48 in the shirts too so i'd try and go to a shop or find somehere that you can return items easily.
One thing you could do is shrink it if it's too big. I have done the rugged wash with a 48 Mallory, so i don't see any problems doing the same with the waistcoat if it's a bit loose.
As for the above questions about the sourcing of materials and manufacture, Cabourn hasn't always made stuff in the UK or Japan. That started mostly with his first Limited edition stuff. The Ascent of Cabourn collection coincided with a new direction in the company. It really established it as a brand that sourced locally in both Japan and the UK.
I remember having Cabourn stuff in the early nineties. It wasn't half as good quality as it is now. (yes i'm old).
Regarding the new (or renewed) manufacturing process, it's a no brainer for the company to make more affordable (but still quite expensive) shirts and other pieces. They are losing a lot of custom to people who aspire to wear Cabourn stuff, but simply can't afford it. I know i can't really, but i manage to get stuff when discounts and sales appear. This is a risk as size 46s were not so common in Europe until recently.
Most people who don't wait for the sale, buy your usual stuff, Our Legacy, Norse and EG to some extent. Good labels, but a level below Cabourn in quality.
Cabourn needs to compete at that level imo as well as the high end market. At a guess i'd say 50% of the Cabourn stuff only sells once the sales start. This isn't good for Cabourn or the retailer. I know Oi Polloi dropped Cabourn as it just didn't sell that well outside the sale. Having a mid-priced range to compete with other designers make total sense. I have the crazy shirt from AW13 and it's excellent quality. I would still put it above the EG stuff i have and it's probably a little cheaper than most EG shirts. Just because it's made in Portugal or wherever doesn't make it shit. The material is still superb and i can't fault the workmanship either.
People forget how much skilled workers are paid here (UK) and Japan. People talk about the Mallorys, Parkas and Cameraman being too expensive, but the materials are second to none and the craftsmanship is going to reflect the price.
Buy an OL or Norse wool jacket similar to the Mallory and within a year that jacket will be pretty rough and probably unwearable. I wear my Mallorys EVERY DAY, for work, going out and anything in between. They last a lifetime and look better with age.That makes them cheaper than the inferior products in the long run.
I have had the OL rolling 3 button blazer before. It's long gone, while my older Mallorys are still tip top. You do the math.
I just wish he'd never done that Debenhams thing. While the Utility stuff was good quality, they sorta damaged the brand in my eyes. People wacking an Utility Arctic Parka on eBay trying to pass it off as the real deal should hung, drawn and quartered. I think that was the turning point in the company though. They havn't looked back since.