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Nigel Cabourn - Page 183

post #2731 of 4851

Ok, so I'm back from my long weekend in London, and a few folks have asked me to report back on my findings. So here goes!

 

First off, I'd bought a few items in the Marrkt and Superdenim sales before going over, so they were waiting for me at my friends house. I naturally had high expectations, as this was more Cabourn stuff and even though I got good deals on most of the items, they were intially spendy pieces, like all Cabourn. So, what do I think of the haul?

 

The Bombay pants in Harris Tweed are actually a first for Cabourn in that the sizing is actually ok. I am normally a 33/34 waist and bought 34 in these, as Superdenim swore they were sized large. And lo and behold, I can actually wear them. Feels quite strane to wear quite thick tweed trousers, but they'll be good for cold weather and are not actually as thick as you'd imagine. Odd cut though, as the legs are really wide and baggy. Will be interesting to see how I can carry these off (my SO laughed out loud when she saw them).

 

I'd also bought an Ink Vest and a Fairisle sweater and from the moment I unpacked these I was seriously unimpressed. Machine-knitted, lightweight thin woold, made with no finesse at all. Totally disappointed. Given the price and what has been said about Cabourn knitwear before, I had high hopes for these, but what I actually got was little better than cheap major brand stuff. Pathetic. I'm a little hesistant to even describe my feelings here, as I may try selling them on again, but I think it's better to voice an honest opinion. My girlfriend thought I looked cute in the Fairisle, but was very unimpressed by quality (she is a good knitter). I haven't dared show her the vest yet, as it's even poorer than the sweater. Compare to the AWESOME sweaters I looked at at SEHK, which granted are almost 300 pounds, the NC is worthless, pathetic crap. And that is my opinion based on a hugely discounted price.

 

So, opinion on the new stuff from NC? Mostly meh... I visited Trunk Clothiers first, to check out a couple of jackets for a fellow forum member who was trying to chose between the two. It didn't take me long before I was mentally emailing him back to say he should buy neither of them. The cricket jacket and jersey Mallory were laughable at the price. Material felt so-so and the jackets just don't look good at all. Floppy material, so totally unstructured. How they can take a design like the Mallory, which looks terrific in tweed, transfer it to a terrible sweathshirt-like material and make a mockery of the base design is beyond me. The originals ventile patches were replaced by a contrasting material, with no apparent added value. Priced at around 400 and 600 pounds, I felt they were trying it on... Very disappointing. The guy I spoke to at Trunk was friendly and pleasant though, so I'll give them credit for friendly staff. Oh, the most remarkable thing was that Paul Weller (Google it, kids) came by while I was there. Apparently a regular customer.

 

Trunk didn't have a huge selection, so I next tried Present. Started out a little poorly there, as the hipster sales assistant was quick to bust me for taking a couple of snaps of a jacket ("No photos, mate, look at the website"). They have a pretty large selection of stuff, including the infamous sleeping-bag jacket, which apparently the owner has his eye on, if it doesn't sellH e plans to cut the furry collar off to make it less strange, which is what Cabourn intended, according to the SA. A 3500 pound jacket that the customer needs to modify to make it wearable. Really? Anyhow, I browsed about a bit. Taped ventile jackets are so-so, just windbreakers to me (although USHOWU has some nicer photos of them, up from this morning). To me the gold items are this seasons army jackets, in green and navy. Very neat looking, and not horribly priced at 350 pounds (this is, compared to regular Cabourn pricing, not prices as the rest of the world would see it). Looked at a few of the other jackets and they were totally unremarkable, thin summer jackets. Really not very interesting.

 

 

 

Another thing that struck me. I was pretty nattily dressed (if I may say so myself...) when out browsing, wearing my all navy Cameran. Neither Trunk nor Present appeared to notice that I was in fact wearing a prime piece of the brand I was looking at, which ought to signal that I was probably a pretty serious customer. Two other places I visited did notice and made a point of mentioning it (one even asked to try it on!).

 

Oh, and I'll go out on a heretic limb here... Walking past H&M on Oxford Street I was inspired to stop in and see if they had their Cameraman-knockoff in stock. Well, they did. And given the following constraints: ripped off design, non-British production, non-British materials, non-fancy build quality etc., it's actually not a terrible jacket. I was quite surprised by how decent it was, with rubberised cotton etc. Certainly a steal at the 50 pounds they're asking, given how closely it emulates the original Cameramans style.

 

 

 

So there you go, the best-value Cabourn piece I saw on my travels wasn't even by Cabourn (and no, I didn't actually buy one, though I did consider getting one for my son).

 

After that I went to SEH Kelly and was blown away by their stuff. I'll write more about that in the SEHK thread :-)

 

Part 2 here: http://www.styleforum.net/t/277070/s-e-h-kelly/90#post_6149752

 

Part 3 here: http://www.styleforum.net/t/220610/british-workwear-heritage-brands/75#post_6151525


Edited by NickJohannessen - 2/21/13 at 1:26am
post #2732 of 4851
good write up man. I'll be over in London in a few weeks. Last time I visited, I went to present and was completely underwhelmed. Trunk is a store that I have on my list. In terms of Cabourn, there is never really anything great for spring. Fall/Winter is when the brand shines.
post #2733 of 4851

Damn!  Paul Weller!!!  That's awesome!

post #2734 of 4851
Thank you Nick on your impressions of the NC knits, was always curious what people thought. I look forward to your write up in the SEH as their stuff looks top notch
post #2735 of 4851
Do people size down 1 for cameraman?
post #2736 of 4851
^I sized down one from my mallory. Camerman (winter version) I'm a 46, and Mallory I'm a 48 I don't even know my NC size to be honest since I only have Mallory and Camerman. Never tried on any of their other shirts or other jackets.
post #2737 of 4851
Ok yeah that was my impression as well

I've only tried on 46 cameraman and Mallory. Mallory fit well but cameraman arms were really long and chest was kinda big but doable if layering

Thx for confirming though
post #2738 of 4851
Quote:
Originally Posted by nixda View Post

Damn!  Paul Weller!!!  That's awesome!


Yes, very cool to have met this guy.

I'm also more a fan of A/W items of NC. Of the new S/S collection I like the striped jacket, pants and vest ensemble. The rest doesn't speak to me much.

post #2739 of 4851
Quote:
Originally Posted by randomkoreandude View Post

Do people size down 1 for cameraman?

I took a 50 Crazy Mallory this winter and sized UP to a 52 for the Crazy Cameraman.  I wanted to be able to wear either a sweater or sport coat underneath.

post #2740 of 4851
Quote:
Originally Posted by randomkoreandude View Post

Do people size down 1 for cameraman?

I'm one size down on the Cameraman compared to the Mallory, but I'd say the difference is more like a good half-size so depending on the fit you prefer you might get away with the same size in both.
post #2741 of 4851

Thanks to everyone who gave fit advice for the SS13 Camo Notch work jacket.  My 50 arrived today from END and it fits exactly as stated - the same as my 50 Mallory however a bit slimmer cut.  I am very happy with this piece - a VERY nice jacket.

 

I think that will be it for Spring - most items did not impress me.  I agree with Nick's comments about the taped Ventile jackets - they just look like basic windbreakers.

 

AW12 was my first taste of Cabourn (Crazy Mallory and Crazy Cameraman) and I was excited for some Spring items.  I think I got the best one with the Camo jacket.

 

Will there be additional items dropping for SS13  - outerwear?

 

Gregg

post #2742 of 4851
Quote:
Originally Posted by NickJohannessen View Post

Ok, so I'm back from my long weekend in London, and a few folks have asked me to report back on my findings. So here goes!
...

Nice write up - thanks.

I agree his summer stuff isn't a patch on his winter outerwear.

I'm surprised you were so disappointed with the knits. I've not got anything from this or the last season, but was pretty happy with mine. Yes they're machine knits and seriously over-priced at full retail (well it's Cabourn...) but I thought they were as good as any lightweight sweaters - my Shetland pieces seem pretty standard weight for Shetlands, and the merino vest is pretty much what I'd expect (better than say John Smedley). The thing I like about the four pocket vests is the pocket roll - I've not seen that done better.

If you want to be really disappointed with Cabourn, pick up one of the cotton ties off LN-CC - at £27 in their 80% off it's only mildly overpriced - the original price for unlined, machine sewn handkerchief cotton defies belief. I's identical to cotton ties I can pick up locally for under £20, apart from the Cabourn tag...

Yes the H&M coat isn't that badly constructed. They had it on a brief web offer for £25 - I couldn't bring myself to buy a copy, but even allowing for the costs of UK manufacture and materials I think we know we're paying a lot for design and name.
post #2743 of 4851
Quote:
Originally Posted by ManofKent View Post


Nice write up - thanks.

I agree his summer stuff isn't a patch on his winter outerwear.

I'm surprised you were so disappointed with the knits. I've not got anything from this or the last season, but was pretty happy with mine. Yes they're machine knits and seriously over-priced at full retail (well it's Cabourn...) but I thought they were as good as any lightweight sweaters - my Shetland pieces seem pretty standard weight for Shetlands, and the merino vest is pretty much what I'd expect (better than say John Smedley). The thing I like about the four pocket vests is the pocket roll - I've not seen that done better.

If you want to be really disappointed with Cabourn, pick up one of the cotton ties off LN-CC - at £27 in their 80% off it's only mildly overpriced - the original price for unlined, machine sewn handkerchief cotton defies belief. I's identical to cotton ties I can pick up locally for under £20, apart from the Cabourn tag...

Yes the H&M coat isn't that badly constructed. They had it on a brief web offer for £25 - I couldn't bring myself to buy a copy, but even allowing for the costs of UK manufacture and materials I think we know we're paying a lot for design and name.

Hey Nick, I was also surprised by your Fair Isle jumper review. I really like mine. It's true that it is a light-weight knit but it has a really soft handle. I don't mind the fact it's machine knitted either. I think if you want a hand-knitted jumper, actually from Fair Isle, you have to budget for these kinds of prices: http://www.thistleandbroom.com/shopping/apparel/wool/agnes-bowie_moreinfo.htm

 

Although I have to say I'm much more intrigued by SEH Kelly now.. I already thought their website was unbelievable in the amount of information they give on the British suppliers they work with. I never thought Yorkshire mills could be so exciting. Their stuff seems to be always in pale or neutral colours though, which isn't great for me..

post #2744 of 4851

Oh Paul Weller !
I have all his CD. He is the style icon for decades.

post #2745 of 4851
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