Originally Posted by Jagger_On
When I first heard about it, I was told Dover Street but I was talking to the guys up at Tailor at the Tannery a few weeks back and they reckoned it was going to be on Mount Street. Sounds like he's looking for somewhere in Mayfair.
I'm not sure I agree with this and think its a bit of a forum myth. The great thing about this forum is we all share our pics and experiences. We search out great deals and then let other people on the forum know where we got a good deal so that we can help each other and I think this contributes to the myth that stuff only sells on discount. I remember the discussion on here when AW12 launched and people were saying how overpriced it was (which it is) and how they wouldn't sell anything until sale time. I'm not sure if it was just the pieces I had my eye on but most retailers only had a few pieces in 1 or 2 sizes left come sale time. Its a terrible business model if the plan isn't to sell anything until you offer the item at 50% off. Either the retailer will go bust sooner or later or the brand will.
Take a shop like Corniche for example (only picking them as I know the shop), they had full runs of most items (Mallory's in all colourways, both the limited edition double breasted jackets, trousers, shirts, etc) and I know from speaking to them and going in to the shop every so often that they sold through a ton of stock and tried to get extra and when it came to sale time they only had the odd size left like any other brand come sale time. Obviously, some things are going to sell quicker than others but I think this forum underestimates the demand for Cabourn at full price a little.
Having said that, it does look like the SS13 prices haven't been subject to any increase in price like we have seen recently and some of the shirts seem a little cheaper. It will be interesting to see how the quality of the fabric, construction, etc compares.
I do agree with you on this - its my experience talking to the various successful Nigel Cabourn Stockists that much of the inventory is sold at the full price.
Endclothing and Corniche who are two of the longest standing British stockists wouldn't order it season after season if it all went to sale. Much of the sale inventory is in because they have sold so well and ask Cabourn for extra items from cancelled orders or overstock. I constantly watch what's being sold from their respective web sites and some pieces and sizes go immediately and new pieces added.
Trunk clothiers who had the AW12 collection in for the first time did very well with just a few pieces left in the sale and their main inventory was sold before they even had an internet site up and running so it was just their customers coming into the shop or ringing up on the off chance.
There is a mood among other Nigel Cabourn stockists or past stockists (I wont name them) that 'the casual set' who just buy the brand for show to wear on the terraces are struggling to afford the high prices and are likely moving else wear or only buying in the sales .Those particular stockists that attract that market have struggled with it.
Continental Europe and Japan of course are the main markets. Having been to Germany, there is definately more of desire to invest in quality, small production run, English made heritage clothing. Hence Manufactum having their own Authentic line and women's wear. just check out www.manufactum.de and search 'Nigel Cabourn'.
Many of the Nigel Cabourn shops in continental Europe don't have e commerce sites and sell only from their shops and they order season after season. Kentaurus is a case in point they sell out and very rarely discount.
From SS10 when I first discovered Nigel Cabourn, I have bought approximately half of my Cabourn items at full price so I can secure the main pieces at my size (often just one has been ordered outside of Japan) and the other half through sales.
A flagship London Mayfair, Knightsbridge or Clerkenwell Nigel Cabourn store would make sense particularly in time for the AW13 collection as I expect the Cerutti cashmere items to be seriously exclusive and high priced plus it would be a good outlet for the Women's wear.