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Nigel Cabourn - Page 175

post #2611 of 4606
I would definitely try to wear the notch lapel jacket ( formally called Tenzing in SS12) as fitted as possible so try the 50 in your case.

As previously mentioned on the forum, Nigel Cabourn sizing is inconsistent and worthy of a long essay of explaination but I take a 46 in both Mallorys and the SS unlined suit type jackets - I do also have some 44's as well but the 44 in the SS12 Tenzing jacket was too small so if you are happy with the fit of a 50 Mallory and it gives a tailored look with just a shirt underneath, I would try the 50 Notch Lapel Jacket

Let us know how you get on if you decide to invest
post #2612 of 4606
Quote:
Originally Posted by archer34 View Post

I just steam ironed my mallory with a tea towel over the top and it worked a treat.
Got to say the mallory jacket with the mallory vest under looks awesome. Can't wait for it to get cold enough to wear it.
The camo looks overall brighter and greener with the ss13. Which might but look very good with the lighter less vibrant ss12 jacket.

Phew! Great news about collar pressing

Yes I thought from photos that the SS13 camo print looked a bit greener - I've got the waistcoat coming Monday or Tuesday from Trunk Clothiers so ill post a photo of comparison with the SS12 Jacket
post #2613 of 4606
Sorry it's such a poor photo but this is one of my favourite SS11 pieces - this is the only 46 outside of Japan



All done up and tightened a la 'Ice Station Zebra' style

I think there is one still available at www.ushowu.com for any who dare!
post #2614 of 4606
I've just listed my Henry R Bowers in B & S if anyone is interested.
post #2615 of 4606

Eric

 

Thank you for the feedback on the Camo.

 

Does anyone know if End Clothing will still be carrying Cabourn this season?  Many of the other online retailers have Spring listed however End is only showing left over sale items from various seasons.

 

One last note - living in the States there are almost no Cabourn retailers.  Barneys in NY carries an extremely limited selection - at high prices.  My first venture into Cabourn was this fall and both pieces were ordered from the UK.  Extremely easy to do as often the retailer will pay the shipping or charge a minimal amount.  The problem arises when one needs to return something back to the UK.  Often the shipping charges are rather expensive.  I was going to create a separate thread suggesting that overseas retailers arrange a way for customers to take advantage of the favorable shipping contracts they have already negotiated with FedEx, DHL etc.  In this way if something needs to go back because of size fit etc. it would not cost an arm and a leg to ship.  This is something which inhibits me from ordering more things from Europe.  I had to send a pair of Trickers back to Norse Store (fit) and it cost me $60.

 

Gregg

post #2616 of 4606
Quote:
Originally Posted by Eric Gill Sans View Post

Sorry it's such a poor photo but this is one of my favourite SS11 pieces - this is the only 46 outside of Japan



All done up and tightened a la 'Ice Station Zebra' style

I think there is one still available at www.ushowu.com for any who dare!

It's bold but I do like that camo pattern
post #2617 of 4606

Per the camo discussion, this year's definitely looks brigher in color (more green) and while the camo pattern looks similar, there seems to be less "whiskering" if you will.  I'm not a fan of the white/off-white stitching on this year's version and I'm even less a fan off all the stitching on the pieces, though I like the idea of a vest/waistcoat.

 

I think you can do a lot in terms of pairing the camo.  An orange or medium blue sweater works underneath while I think a camo waistcoat would look cool under a brown-tone herringbone blazer.  Not a fan of the plaid and camo combo though.  I think it's bit too much pattern and pattern where as a herringbone in the right color tone is a bit more subtle. 

 

I do like that vest from SS12.  I would never get it because I just don't see myself wearing it.  If I lived in England and had the appropriate function though... 

 

Quote:

Originally Posted by buzzlulu View Post

Eric

 

Thank you for the feedback on the Camo.

 

Does anyone know if End Clothing will still be carrying Cabourn this season?  Many of the other online retailers have Spring listed however End is only showing left over sale items from various seasons.

 

One last note - living in the States there are almost no Cabourn retailers.  Barneys in NY carries an extremely limited selection - at high prices.  My first venture into Cabourn was this fall and both pieces were ordered from the UK.  Extremely easy to do as often the retailer will pay the shipping or charge a minimal amount.  The problem arises when one needs to return something back to the UK.  Often the shipping charges are rather expensive.  I was going to create a separate thread suggesting that overseas retailers arrange a way for customers to take advantage of the favorable shipping contracts they have already negotiated with FedEx, DHL etc.  In this way if something needs to go back because of size fit etc. it would not cost an arm and a leg to ship.  This is something which inhibits me from ordering more things from Europe.  I had to send a pair of Trickers back to Norse Store (fit) and it cost me $60.

 

Gregg

 

I would assume End will be carrying Cabourn again.  They might be waiting since they still have a good amount of AW inventory left.  The other retailers haven't had their SS inventory up for long either and they've also largely sold through their AW inventory, which they had less of in the first place.  End aren't the only stockist who hasn't put up the SS collection just yet. 

 

Doubt that ever happens with the shipping.  Best bet is to put it up for sale on eBay or the classifieds.

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by Eric Gill Sans View Post

Having looked in more detail at the first offerings for the Nigel Cabourn SS13 collection released so far, it's my opinion that this is the stand out piece so far

 

 

CREATOR: gd-jpeg v1.0 (using IJG JPEG v62), quality = 80

The Yellow Ventile Aircraft Jacket

 

These are my reasons:

 

1. Its an outerwear piece - something that is synonymous with Nigel Cabourn and the brand. If future British Summers match what we've had over the last few years, a waterproof Spring Summer jacket will get plenty of wear. It is light weight enough to layer up in cooler months.

 

2. Ventile - ventile looks gorgeous when new, it has a subtle sheen and a smooth firm handle which cant be matched by synthetic fibres or standard cotton. It's very tightly woven and doesn't naturally hold dye well, so with some wear, age and creases it will get a great marble fading effect which will be subtle in this colourway and blend in nicely with the taping. This will age particularly well I think unlike darker colours such as navy.

 

Ventile was originally invented and woven a couple of miles from where I live so am partial to the fabric. It is still woven and dyed in small batches and considering the cost of the jacket against the high cost of the material, I think it this jacket represents very good value. This jacket hasn't cost £20 to make!

 

3.Colour - The yellow is not too bright or garish - it has an ochre shading to it which will work so well with lots of different colours, skin tones, hair colours (unlike red and orange). The brown buttons, which on all Cabourn pieces are superb stand out nicely making a real feature of the fastenings. The light colour and the contrast and the natural stone coloured taping is more subtle on this colour and so it doesn't look like a piece of sportswear.

 

4.Functionality - Ventile is naturally waterproof and breathable but this is the first time Cabourn has taped and sealed seams which means that the jacket is even more impervious to rain. Cabourn's clothes while being more fashion items rather than high performance clothing has always harked back to another era where functional clothes were imperfect - Macintosh still leaks rain through the stitching, waxed and oil cloth which although holds back much of the elements can still gets soaked and again leaks through the stitching.

 

This taped jacket should be the closest to wearing a Gore Tex type jacket but still made in small quantities with natural fibres and processes and still retains Nigel Cabourn's design authenticity and heritage.

 

In the words of Frank Hogwallop, "I seem 'em first!" smile.gif Definitely my favorite piece at this point. Love the color, makes it look very Spring. The taped seems don't stand out so much on this one as well. On the flip side, the taped seam Aircraft Jackets are notably pricier this time around though, about 300 pounds.

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by Morph View Post


Always wonder how you would wear these, now I know :-)

 

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by Eric Gill Sans View Post

While on the subject of waterproof fabrics

 

I wore these skiing in Austria as salopettes over merino wool long johns every day over a week and got caught in some pretty heavy blizzards and miraculously they kept the water out even though the whole front of the trouser looked damp.

 

The fabric is a tightly woven cotton which replicates exactly the Burberry gabardine that Scott's men wore to keep out the wind and snow and mentioned in the article - it worked really well.

 

I realise snow it not the same as heavy rain coming down vertically but even so it was pretty good.

 

 

CREATOR: gd-jpeg v1.0 (using IJG JPEG v62), quality = 100

 

The only draw back was that the bottom of the pants didn't go over my ski boots so i wore then rolled up and loosely tucked in. Thinking about getting them altered with flared panels sewn in the bottoms for next time.

 

I was a fan of the whole Evan outfit, especially the smock. I would never spend that much on one piece though. Pants hit a good price at Barney's, but they didn't have my size left.

 

I could using them during winter hikes as well.

 

 

Quote:

Originally Posted by Eric Gill Sans View Post

Sorry it's such a poor photo but this is one of my favourite SS11 pieces - this is the only 46 outside of Japan



All done up and tightened a la 'Ice Station Zebra' style

I think there is one still available at www.ushowu.com for any who dare!

 

It looks a bit faded at the elbow. Is that how the beeswaxed fabric wears after time? Just curious as I've seen other pieces from that season on eBay recently and was pondering one of them.

post #2618 of 4606
A couple of nice bits of knitwear in maarkt's final clearance if you're a 46 or 48
post #2619 of 4606
Picked up the brown rollneck. Have no experience with his knits so I'm excited to see how this turns out
Edited by lmaozedong - 2/11/13 at 6:24am
post #2620 of 4606
Quote:
Originally Posted by ManofKent View Post

A couple of nice bits of knitwear in maarkt's final clearance if you're a 46 or 48

 

I took one of the unloved green Fairisles in 48, on the off-chance it might fit. Only another 7 of them left, folks...

post #2621 of 4606
Quote:
Originally Posted by lmaozedong View Post

Picket up the brown rollneck. Have no experience with his knits so I'm excited to see how this turns out

It's good quality knitwear (well the bits I've got are...)
Quote:
Originally Posted by NickJohannessen View Post

I took one of the unloved green Fairisles in 48, on the off-chance it might fit. Only another 7 of them left, folks...

I like it and would have snapped it up in a 52.
post #2622 of 4606
Quote:
Originally Posted by NickJohannessen View Post

I took one of the unloved green Fairisles in 48, on the off-chance it might fit. Only another 7 of them left, folks...

I already have the browny/orangey one... can I justify a green one too?
post #2623 of 4606
Quote:
Originally Posted by lmaozedong View Post

Picked up the brown rollneck. Have no experience with his knits so I'm excited to see how this turns out

Nice one - I love the 4 way roll necks

I occasionally wear them inside out because I like the shoulder/neck reinforcement and ribbing detail on the inside and so I have taken off the size label and re- stitched the 'made in England' and 'Nigel cabourn' labels so they are fully stitched flat. I have also taken out the inside white label which is on the lower inside seam. It only took about half an hour - results below



End Clothing have around 12 pieces coming in from the SS13 collection - jackets, army shirts and the converse plimsols. Full range of sizes including 46's. No date yet but imminent. They went live towards the end of Feb last year so I would assume the same - they are going to ring me when in so ill post straight away.
post #2624 of 4606
It looks a bit faded at the elbow. Is that how the beeswaxed fabric wears after time? Just curious as I've seen other pieces from that season on eBay recently and was pondering one of them.
[/quote]

It's just my rubbish photography as the light was streaming in from a window to the right

It hasn't faded through wear although there is a natural marbling to the fabric where the creases make the wax coating go whitish

Closer photo of the elbow



It's a fabulous piece but bold - it's a real head turner and I've had lots of interesting comments having worn it in some pretty 'Interesting' places. Also my wife has worn it on a couple of occasions!!!
post #2625 of 4606
Blaugrana

Ushowu still have two pairs of the Wilson Overpants - still at full price at the moment but keep checking as I think they will be reduced soon

I was in Flannels in Manchester two weeks ago and they has two Edgar Evans reversible smocks which are made from the the gabardine with a ventile lining. These have never appeared on their website and so I was really surprised to see them on the sale rail. 1 was 48 and the other size 50. As they weren't my size I didn't make a note on the price but I think they were around £700-£800 ish.

If anyone's interested I would ring the Manchester store direct. I bet they are still there.
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