or Connect
Styleforum › Forums › Men's Style › Streetwear and Denim › Nigel Cabourn
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:

Nigel Cabourn - Page 174

post #2596 of 4493
Quote:
Originally Posted by NickJohannessen View Post

I was looking at it, and the yellow shirts. Thankfully I managed to resist both. I couldn't see myself ever actually using either of them. It's good the sales are almost done now...

I saw myself wearing the white coat half a dozen times a year which meant it would have been a silly purchase. The yellow shirt just didn't tempt me - I'm happy enough with uniqlo oxfords.
post #2597 of 4493

Search: Anyone having a Geddes blue / green - 46/48 left?

post #2598 of 4493
Quote:
Originally Posted by Eric Gill Sans View Post

Having looked in more detail at the first offerings for the Nigel Cabourn SS13 collection released so far, it's my opinion that this is the stand out piece so far

 

 

CREATOR: gd-jpeg v1.0 (using IJG JPEG v62), quality = 80

The Yellow Ventile Aircraft Jacket

 

These are my reasons:

 

1. Its an outerwear piece - something that is synonymous with Nigel Cabourn and the brand. If future British Summers match what we've had over the last few years, a waterproof Spring Summer jacket will get plenty of wear. It is light weight enough to layer up in cooler months.

 

2. Ventile - ventile looks gorgeous when new, it has a subtle sheen and a smooth firm handle which cant be matched by synthetic fibres or standard cotton. It's very tightly woven and doesn't naturally hold dye well, so with some wear, age and creases it will get a great marble fading effect which will be subtle in this colourway and blend in nicely with the taping. This will age particularly well I think unlike darker colours such as navy. 

 

Ventile was originally invented and woven a couple of miles from where I live so am partial to the fabric. It is still woven and dyed in small batches and considering the cost of the jacket against the high cost of the material, I think it this jacket represents very good value. This jacket hasn't cost £20 to make!

 

3.Colour - The yellow is not too bright or garish - it has an ochre shading to it which will work so well with lots of different colours, skin tones, hair colours (unlike red and orange). The brown buttons, which on all Cabourn pieces are superb stand out nicely making a real feature of the fastenings. The light colour and the contrast and the natural stone coloured taping is more subtle on this colour and so it doesn't look like a piece of sportswear.

 

4.Functionality - Ventile is naturally waterproof and breathable but this is the first time Cabourn has taped and sealed seams which means that the jacket is even more impervious to rain. Cabourn's clothes while being more fashion items rather than high performance clothing has always harked back to another era where functional clothes were imperfect - Macintosh still leaks rain through the stitching, waxed and oil cloth which although holds back much of the elements can still gets soaked and again leaks through the stitching.

 

This taped jacket should be the closest to wearing a Gore Tex type jacket but still made in small quantities with natural fibres and processes and still retains Nigel Cabourn's design authenticity and heritage.

My initial thoughts were the same as yourself. However for £680 I will wait till the sales to purchase. Another problem with ventile when comparing it to gore tex or other technical fabrics is it relys on its own fibres swelling to do this it needs to get wet which, if only a single layer of ventile, can make you feel "wet" and cold despite being perfectly dry. 

post #2599 of 4493
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kuznetsov View Post

Another problem with ventile when comparing it to gore tex or other technical fabrics is it relys on its own fibres swelling to do this it needs to get wet which, if only a single layer of ventile, can make you feel "wet" and cold despite being perfectly dry. 

 

My experience with the Macintosh fabric used for the Cameraman is that even with the vents in the armpits, you don't want to work up a sweat in this jacket. It holdes wet in a lot better than it does out!

post #2600 of 4493
The Macintosh fabric doesn't breath at all. Ventile I heard breaths well, but I don't think it works as well as gore in terms of waterproof, but then again i doubt you need that high waterproofness.
post #2601 of 4493
Quote:
Originally Posted by irbe View Post

The Macintosh fabric doesn't breath at all. Ventile I heard breaths well, but I don't think it works as well as gore in terms of waterproof, but then again i doubt you need that high waterproofness.

Don't get me wrong though, that is an awesome piece.
post #2602 of 4493
Quote:
Originally Posted by irbe View Post

The Macintosh fabric doesn't breath at all. Ventile I heard breaths well, but I don't think it works as well as gore in terms of waterproof, but then again i doubt you need that high waterproofness.

That is my experience of it. For breathability with water resistance it is impossible to beat but is in no way as waterproof as gore or other mebranes.

post #2603 of 4493
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kuznetsov View Post

That is my experience of it. For breathability with water resistance it is impossible to beat but is in no way as waterproof as gore or other mebranes.

All good points regarding waterproof and breathable fabrics 

 

this is probably the best article I know to explain it all without getting too technical and mentions Macintosh, Ventile and Gore Tex - scroll down to the heading 'Types of waterproof fabrics'

 

http://www.ukhillwalking.com/articles/page.php?id=4556

 

My experience of Ventile is that having worn it in some severe downpours - it does feel cold and goes quite stiff but has protected me from getting wet

post #2604 of 4493

While on the subject of waterproof fabrics 

 

I wore these skiing in Austria as salopettes over merino wool long johns every day over a week and got caught in some pretty heavy blizzards and miraculously they kept the water out even though the whole front of the trouser looked damp.

 

The fabric is a tightly woven cotton which replicates exactly the Burberry gabardine that Scott's men wore to keep out the wind and snow and mentioned in the article - it worked really well.

 

I realise snow it not the same as heavy rain coming down vertically but even so it was pretty good.

 

 

CREATOR: gd-jpeg v1.0 (using IJG JPEG v62), quality = 100

 

The only draw back was that the bottom of the pants didn't go over my ski boots so i wore then rolled up and loosely tucked in. Thinking about getting them altered with flared panels sewn in the bottoms for next time.


Edited by Eric Gill Sans - 2/8/13 at 8:05am
post #2605 of 4493
Quote:
Originally Posted by Eric Gill Sans View Post

While on the subject of waterproof fabrics 

I wore these skiing in Austria as salopettes over merino wool long johns every day over a week and got caught in some pretty heavy blizzards and miraculously they kept the water out even though the whole front of the trouser looked damp.

The fabric is a tightly woven cotton which replicates exactly the Burberry gabardine that Scott's men wore to keep out the wind and snow and mentioned in the article - it worked really well.

I realise snow it not the same as heavy rain coming down vertically but even so it was pretty good.


CREATOR: gd-jpeg v1.0 (using IJG JPEG v62), quality = 100


The only draw back was that the bottom of the pants didn't go over my ski boots so i wore then rolled up and loosely tucked in. Thinking about getting them altered with flared panels sewn in the bottoms for next time.
Always wonder how you would wear these, now I know :-)
post #2606 of 4493

I haven't seen the Cabourn x Converse collabo available at a stockist yet. Any word on how they plan to release those shoes?

post #2607 of 4493
Hi all
A couple of things
1. Is the new ss13 camo pattern the same as ss12 stuff. I've got the tenzing camo and those new waistcoats look sweet.
And 2. I've just did the soak in warm water thing with my mallory and one of the lapels doesn't sit flat when wearing. Is it best to get it pressed or use starch? The tweed now is much softer and feels a lot better with an overall better fit.
post #2608 of 4493
The camo pattern looks exactly the same although the colour looks slightly different although this could be a batch print variation - the fabric on the SS12 came from Italy because Nigel Couldn't get it done in the UK although all the manufacture was done in England and I was told there was a problem with some of the fabric so the Camo Tenzing was very limited last year - only 2 46's got through quality control and later than the first batch - I got mine from Tres Bien
I am going to order the camo waistcoat and compare it to my SS12 Tenzing - I will post my findings next week

I think this particular camo print is based on an old pair of vintage military trousers given to him in Japan and is quite unusual

I would attempt to press the collar on the Mallory using a steam iron but don't use it directly on the wool - put a slightly damp tea towel over the area to press to protect the fabric

Let us know how you get on
post #2609 of 4493

Looking at this springs Camo Notch Work jacket as seen at Present London. My first Cabourn pieces were this past winter when I took a Crazy Mallory in size 50. I also took a Crazy Cameraman in 52 as the 50 would not allow me to put a sweater underneath. 

 

Does this Camo jacket fit like a Mallory ie I would take the same size 50?  This winters Crazy Mallory seemed to have the same size shoulders - it was just the body which was larger in the 52.

 

Thanks

Gregg

 

PS. so far I am only seeing this piece at Present

post #2610 of 4493
I just steam ironed my mallory with a tea towel over the top and it worked a treat.
Got to say the mallory jacket with the mallory vest under looks awesome. Can't wait for it to get cold enough to wear it.
The camo looks overall brighter and greener with the ss13. Which might but look very good with the lighter less vibrant ss12 jacket.
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:
  Return Home
  Back to Forum: Streetwear and Denim
Styleforum › Forums › Men's Style › Streetwear and Denim › Nigel Cabourn