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Nigel Cabourn - Page 173

post #2581 of 4495
Quote:
Originally Posted by Eric Gill Sans View Post

Actually this is my favourite jazz combo


Please post a picture of you wearing that outfit..
post #2582 of 4495
Quote:
Originally Posted by the year 1492 View Post

yeah, it's not ventile - i'm almost certain that the short puffa uses a fabric called norwegian canvas. 

yes Norwegian canvas, it is a special canvas developed by the Norwegian Ski Olympic Team back in the 50s if I recall well, no idea what are its characteristics exactly...
post #2583 of 4495
Quote:
Originally Posted by NickJohannessen View Post

I can see that in my future (once it comes up on Marrkt at a massive discount, natch). I have this one from the previous season (which to my eyes is even cooler!):

http://www.flannelsfashion.com/products/details/i/21760-b9mlt/n/check-stripe-mix-linen-waistcoat.aspx

Definitely a deep discount piece - I like it a lot, but not the most versatile piece.

Do the summer waistcoats come up pretty small?
post #2584 of 4495
Quote:
Originally Posted by ManofKent View Post


Definitely a deep discount piece - I like it a lot, but not the most versatile piece.

Do the summer waistcoats come up pretty small?


They certainly do.. I bought the khaki linen one in 48 and it didn't go anywhere near me.. Whereas most of my other Cabourn is a well fitting 48..

post #2585 of 4495
Quote:
Originally Posted by ManofKent View Post

Do the summer waistcoats come up pretty small?

 

In my experience, yes, as small as all the Cabourn waistcoats. If you want to button them up, comfortably, you need to size up at least one, if not two sizes from the coat size. I fit nicely in a Mallory size 50, but a Mallory waistcoat size 52 is tight. The linen waistcoats are about the same (and here I made the mistake of ordering both in size 50..). Mostly though I wear my waistcoats open, so size is more flexible.

 

Of course, the insane variation of Cabourn sizing makes it a nightmare for those of us that have to do our shopping by mailorder (and even more so from countries where you're hit by tax and handling fees when importing, so that even if you return ill-fitting garments, you're still losing a chunk of cash). How hard can it be to actually size clothes correctly?


Edited by NickJohannessen - 2/6/13 at 1:09am
post #2586 of 4495
Quote:
Originally Posted by bensolujofin View Post


They certainly do.. I bought the khaki linen one in 48 and it didn't go anywhere near me.. Whereas most of my other Cabourn is a well fitting 48..

Quote:
Originally Posted by NickJohannessen View Post

In my experience, yes, as small as all the Cabourn waistcoats. If you want to button them up, comfortably, you need to size up at least one, if not two sizes from the coat size. I fit nicely in a Mallory size 50, but a Mallory waistcoat size 52 is tight. The linen waistcoats are about the same (and here I made the mistake of ordering both in size 50..). Mostly though I wear my waistcoats open, so size is more flexible.

Of course, the insane variation of Cabourn sizing makes it a nightmare for those of us that have to do our shopping by mailorder (and even more so from countries where you're hit by tax and handling fees when importing, so that even if you return ill-fitting garments, you're still losing a chunk of cash). How hard can it be to actually size clothes correctly?

Thanks. I wondered, because the two knitted four pocket vests/waistcoats I own are both 52 and fit okay (I'm a 52 in most of his stuff).
post #2587 of 4495
Quote:
Originally Posted by ManofKent View Post


Thanks. I wondered, because the two knitted four pocket vests/waistcoats I own are both 52 and fit okay (I'm a 52 in most of his stuff).

 

That sounds good! I have a size 50 waiting for me to pick it up in London next week. I took a chance on knitwear being a bit more lenient sizewise. Normally I seem to be a bit between sizes. Chest measures 41.5". Cameraman (navy) size 50 is a touch tight, (raw yellow) size 52 is much larger. Mallorys it's harder to judge, as without checking the measurements of the actual jacket to verify the marked size, it's impossible to know what you're dealing with. Either 1 or 2 of my 3 are definitely labelled incorrectly. And don't get me started on trousers again... How can trousers be sized as 34 when I can't even force them on my usually reliably 33/34 butt? I can only hope Superdenim are right about the Bombay pants being sized large as I'll be truly disappointed if they don't fit either in 34.

post #2588 of 4495
Trunk Clothiers Cabourn now on line

Love the Rugby tops And jersey Mallorys
post #2589 of 4495
Quote:
Originally Posted by Eric Gill Sans View Post

Actually this is my favourite jazz combo


This awesome, would never have thought to put the two together plus I'm not a big fan of camo.

Loving that crazy Cricket Mallory waistcoat as well. How would you guys pair it, with the matching jacket?

Further drops on Coggles and Flannels. The last Oxford on Coggles is down to £90 and the oxfords on Flannels are down to £125. Also noticed a Crazy Mallory in a 54 down to £375. I'm sure there are others. Also, for any one in the UK I've just noticed you can get Quidco on both these shops. An extra 6% and 8% cashback respectively if it tracks.
post #2590 of 4495
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jagger_On View Post


This awesome, would never have thought to put the two together plus I'm not a big fan of camo.

Loving that crazy Cricket Mallory waistcoat as well. How would you guys pair it, with the matching jacket?

Further drops on Coggles and Flannels. The last Oxford on Coggles is down to £90 and the oxfords on Flannels are down to £125. Also noticed a Crazy Mallory in a 54 down to £375. I'm sure there are others. Also, for any one in the UK I've just noticed you can get Quidco on both these shops. An extra 6% and 8% cashback respectively if it tracks.

Good question about pairing the Crazy Cricket Mallory waistcoat - had the same thought as to what it would go with with having very definate bold stripes. Probably pair it with a solid colour dark green or navy jacket and a plain white shirt and let the bold colours of the waistcoat shine through.

 

I think there will be a matching Crazy Cricket jacket as well depending on whether anybody has ordered it but it might be a bit too bold for many. I would guess Corniche are the likeliest of potential stockists.

 

I have always bought both the NC jacket and matching waistcoat but wasn't able to last year on the Camo jacket as its only this year Cabourn has released the matching camo waistcoat but I quite liked the jazzy mix and match effect.

 

I wonder what the new camo waistcoat would look like under the Madras check linen jacket?

 

Just noticed that the SS13 camo jacket is exactly the same as the SS12 one apart from the price (reduced) and the fact that the SS13 one has white contrast stitching instead of the dark green stitching on mine. The lighter contrast stitching is certainly a nice feature for anyone buying the SS13 version as it defines the structure more.

post #2591 of 4495

Having looked in more detail at the first offerings for the Nigel Cabourn SS13 collection released so far, it's my opinion that this is the stand out piece so far

 

 

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The Yellow Ventile Aircraft Jacket

 

These are my reasons:

 

1. Its an outerwear piece - something that is synonymous with Nigel Cabourn and the brand. If future British Summers match what we've had over the last few years, a waterproof Spring Summer jacket will get plenty of wear. It is light weight enough to layer up in cooler months.

 

2. Ventile - ventile looks gorgeous when new, it has a subtle sheen and a smooth firm handle which cant be matched by synthetic fibres or standard cotton. It's very tightly woven and doesn't naturally hold dye well, so with some wear, age and creases it will get a great marble fading effect which will be subtle in this colourway and blend in nicely with the taping. This will age particularly well I think unlike darker colours such as navy. 

 

Ventile was originally invented and woven a couple of miles from where I live so am partial to the fabric. It is still woven and dyed in small batches and considering the cost of the jacket against the high cost of the material, I think it this jacket represents very good value. This jacket hasn't cost £20 to make!

 

3.Colour - The yellow is not too bright or garish - it has an ochre shading to it which will work so well with lots of different colours, skin tones, hair colours (unlike red and orange). The brown buttons, which on all Cabourn pieces are superb stand out nicely making a real feature of the fastenings. The light colour and the contrast and the natural stone coloured taping is more subtle on this colour and so it doesn't look like a piece of sportswear.

 

4.Functionality - Ventile is naturally waterproof and breathable but this is the first time Cabourn has taped and sealed seams which means that the jacket is even more impervious to rain. Cabourn's clothes while being more fashion items rather than high performance clothing has always harked back to another era where functional clothes were imperfect - Macintosh still leaks rain through the stitching, waxed and oil cloth which although holds back much of the elements can still gets soaked and again leaks through the stitching.

 

This taped jacket should be the closest to wearing a Gore Tex type jacket but still made in small quantities with natural fibres and processes and still retains Nigel Cabourn's design authenticity and heritage.

post #2592 of 4495
Quote:
Originally Posted by Eric Gill Sans View Post

Really interesting reading and I'm coming into this discussion quite late having just joined the forum but agree with lots being said about the copying of the Cameraman jacket. And I was angry when I saw the H&M blatant ripoff copy for a number of reasons.

 

Firstly The Cameraman is Nigel Cabourn's most iconic item of clothing in the Authentic range  - it is from what I know a completely original design not a recreation of an old garment like his Cold Weather Parka or the Antarctic/Everest Parka.

 

There was some spurious schpeel on a shop web site that said that the 'Cameraman Jacket was a painstaking recreation of a jacket worn by Wilfred Noyce who was the cameraman for the 1953 expedition to ascend Everest' or words to that effect.

 

This I think is complete rubbish on a number of grounds: - Wilfred Noyce wasn't 'The Cameraman' he was probably Britain's most talented climber at the time and was in charge of stores and boot repairs and i think the first to get to the South Col in the expedition.

 

Also if you check the history of the Jacket there is a film on youtube which interviews Nigel during the exhibition he did in Newcastle in 2003 where he shows a horizontal glass display cabinet as part of his exhibition showing how he got the inspiration for his design - it shows an army type smock folded back on itself so just the upper half part is showing and this is laid onto the bottom half of a field coat with pockets on the outside giving the overall look of what we know today as his 'Cameraman jacket'.

 

It was common for explorers and cameramen to have pockets on the outside of a heavy garment so that delicate items such as lenses etc weren't damaged against the body hence the name.

 

The jacket was attributed to Wilfred Noyce in the Accent of Cabourn collection in honour of a remarkably talented climber and member of the team and  certainly a man who might have worn a coat of this type.

 

So this is the first reason why the H&M copy makes me angry - it blatantly rips off the whole authenticity of design and heritage of inspiration

 

Second Reason 

 

The Cameraman jacket is a high value, very limited production, high quality garment entirely made in England with fabrics entirely made in Britain. It was designed by a British designer who contributes enormously to British design and manufacturing. It uses authentic British fabrics and processes like  

Macintosh and Tweed (Irish linen and beeswax cotton for SS versions) with all its history and keeps these small quality production techniques alive and relevant. It is inspired by one of England's greatest climbers Wilfred Noyce - need i go on 

 

So H&M come along and think they can RIP ALL THIS OFF and make a copycat garment made in China and sell it for £50!!!!!!!!!

 

Its only a hunch but I think Nigel Cabourn is too old and wise to get remotely annoyed - maybe I'm the only one who is really angry, although I sensed Nigel's right hand man, Drew, was pretty annoyed from a tweet some days ago already mentioned on the forum.

Sorry just realised an inaccuracy on the above rant - the exhibition I eluded to was in 2009 not 2003 (the date of the limited edition)

 

Here is the link below and the important section regarding The Cameraman jacket is at 1:13 into the video

 

http://youtu.be/IxAcrHBySp8

post #2593 of 4495

Nice post, Very NIce........

post #2594 of 4495
Was it one of you guys who saved me from melting my credit card and picking up the Henry Bowers jacket on Coggles for £270? I was getting sorely tempted...
post #2595 of 4495
Quote:
Originally Posted by ManofKent View Post

Was it one of you guys who saved me from melting my credit card and picking up the Henry Bowers jacket on Coggles for £270? I was getting sorely tempted...

 

I was looking at it, and the yellow shirts. Thankfully I managed to resist both. I couldn't see myself ever actually using either of them. It's good the sales are almost done now...

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