Nigel Cabourn - Page 128

Hello,

 

To be a bit blunt, co-labs do not always help that much, good for profile if it's the right company to work with but unless you have a control in distrubution you have very little profit or leverage.  They can in some cases damage the brand and oddly weaken the bigger player in it.    Too many co-labs will in time change the industry view of the brand, weaken the designer and show product that may not be the best it can be.

 

John Rich has a good market within Italy and German, but has not yet flexed it international business, WWM would be a better fit for Nigel, but it's in a world of McNasty right now, the more towards a ivy league/prep look works well for them and will be the core need of growing there business not really Nigels area.

 

I think, some of the Eddie Bauer pieces are wonderful but the fit is a bit off and not showing the best of both NC and EB.

Not sure if this was already posted, if it was sorry for double link. Link for SS13 collection and mention with basics like shirts been more price sensitive.

http://denimhunters.com/history/jeanswear/nigel/cabourn

I saw that in the Marrkt reminder email too. Was quite happy myself, that was my fav collaboration piece from last winter. Might be on the cards if the size and price is right.

 

Curious to see which Highland 2000 items will be included too!

Have to say that collection doesn't wet my appetite.

Yeah his S/S collection is always weaker than A/W.

I'm in scotland. I don't get VAT deducted. Nor does the rest of the EU.

Agree Morph, I've never bought anything from spring

 

Well I wasn't posting it as a suggestion to Nigel.  Like I said, it's something I'd like to see, and that's in the sense of "instead of a collaboration with Eddie Bauer."  Besides, NC seems to be doing plenty of collaborations these days and I question some of them. 

 

I'm also of the opinion that the wrong collaboration or too many isn't good for a designer or brand.  I think they have to be well thought out and a good "fit" for both parties involved.  And part of the appeal to a collaboration is exposure.  I'm not saying that in the case of a Cabourn x Woolrich collaboration, but generally.  I work for a company that has thus far done really smart collaborations and their latest looks to be a success.  I like the "Hollywood" collaborations as well, but sadly the movies/shows I like don't fit the brand platform. 

 

Woolrich John Rich and Bros seems to do well enough here in the States as well.  I mean it seems as readily available as WWM from my experience if not as accessible.  Still I prefer the line to WWM.  Their 180th Anniversary Capsule Collection was great I have the bag which I just love. 

 

I'm not sure WWM would be a better fit, especially now with what McNairy is doing.  Not liking the AW Collection much at all and based on that alone I don't see it being as good a match for NC.  Woolrich John Rich and Bros is definitely the most heritage brand of the Woolrich house, and by that I mean Woolrich brands in name and excluding Barbour.

 

I like some of the Eddie Bauer pieces, but it's more the best of EB in that generally EB's stuff is pretty average. 

 

Yeah, I'm aware of that thanks. 

Hi,

 

Sorry I was not being rude with 'to be blunt' my other posts were a bit wordy....or so I was told.

 

With WWM, I was thinking pre McHairy, or even as a save, maybe but the market is slowly moving on for the total heritage ideal.  the Woolrich JR&B does carry the weight but, personnelly I feel it can be more than that, WJR&B has great scope to build a new furture for Woolrich.

 

Which of the co-labs do you feel worked best for Mr Cabourn?  years ago I was working with a US company in there European office and the head of design for Europe (later, he  went on to head up a true hertage king) said a good co-lab can win a short race a bad one can kill the team, always remembered that.

 

May I ask whom you work with? if that is okay

 

EB does have an amazing history, great pieces, but they have suffered with the expansion of the 'BBQ' market, not easy coming back from that. was lucky enough to see there print archive few seasons ago, wonderful stuff, they should have worked on there womens wear as well as there mens.

Edited by NeilChristopher - 10/7/12 at 11:20am

 

No, that's fine.  Brevity isn't a strong suit of mine, sadly.

 

Yeah, I think the problem for Woolrich is that a lot of it's largest audience isn't even aware of WWM or WJR&B.  I also think that if Heritage fades away, and at some point it will, it doesn't help the brand.  I'm not getting any younger so for me I can see WJR&B still appealing to me, but that could change of course. 

 

Well I don't know.  I was speaking more that I think NC has done too many collaborations in the recent past from what I've seen.  Personally I would think the Eddie Bauer collaboration has been the best for NC.  I actually prefer it too.  Still I think that he should be "limiting" himself to English brands when he does collaborations.  While I like some of the EB pieces, it just doesn't look Cabourn.  I like the NC x Fox Brothers bag collaboration and that to me looked Cabourn to an extent, but too many labels on the bag.  For instance, instead of collaborating with Red Wing or Viberg he could have worked with a Grenson or another English company.  Barbour did a collaboration with Grenson which from the shoes I've seen/have, turned out well (apart from Grenson's shoe sizing). 

 

What do you mean by BBQ market?  Anyway, they just don't seem to offer the quality they used to say... 20 years ago.  Seems to me the quality doesn't match the reputation anymore. 

Hello,

    The BBQ market is/was a term used to describe the mid-market, middle income normally mid-west focus, it’s a HUGE market in the US, lower price point, classic US brands, EG: converse, pretty much anything not one star/Chuck Tailor or Levi main line not 501 or vintage, in the nicest way of say this, it the product that is not setting the world on fire and is found in Wal-Mart et al and in a lot of the bigger US companies it’s what pays the wages and pretty much all of the needs of the company. It’s a brave brand that will turn its back on it. One of the problems is asolid business that have been going for years, not really having to deal with ‘fashion’ are put in a spiral when they bring the ‘fashion’ into play.   Carhartt, Woolrich and Red Wing as examples of this

 

  I agree with you, focus on your strengths and keep true to your vision, but in most cases the Mid-sized brands are already losing that vision due to the cash-flow and backers needing paying back, it kind of comes down to why did you start making clothes? When does it become a brand? And who did you get the money from? Do you want strong returns or good garments? you can do both but it’s VERY hard to grow the business, in this kind of business model, it’s expand or die, if you bring in outside money you will lose quality overtime. The Co-Labs can give an income where a brand can pass this responsibility on a bit, but will weaken the designers ideals and the bulk of the cash goes to the bigger partner.   We coined the word 'dufferism' for this, good brand nice product, open into new markets, needed money, 'duffer' stuck on everything and anything, money comes in but lost of Metro S market, then the edge goes,  brand, shop, ideals and idea gone......

Thought it was tomorrow, but the Nigel Cabourn sale has already started at marrket?!

Says 20 hours and 35 minutes till start, from where I'm looking. No option to login.
 

http://marrkt.com/register.html > login option here

Sales are listed here: http://marrkt.com/onsales.html

Lots of good items and sizes this time around, included the geddes and skyliner jackets. I picked up one of the oxford shirts for $90 shipped.