I used to be a fan of Nice Collective, way back when they were hawking their stuff on fabric8.com (check it out, btw. Some real duds, but they have an eye for emerging talent as well. Oliver Helden has some old, old stuff still there, I believe). Then, the DIYed military surplus designs were a little subtler, and they weren't so into the raw edges and appliques as they are now, and the construction quality was just much higher. Their cuts are still good, I'll give you that. But over the past few years, I've noticed that everything else has gone downhill, to the point that now I see it as a brand that figures strongly into the uniforum of the hipster American Jackass.
Tight jersey to show off the pecs - check.
Raw edges to show edginess - check.
Appliques of lightning, owls (last F/W) and nonsensical serial numbers to show how DIY you are - check.
BTW, there has been some wierd controversy about what an AmJack is. I say it's all about the obnoxious attitude coupled with a lack of knowledge or imagination. Yes, a lot of them (the fratboy types) seem to dress alike, but hey, there are also Wall Street AmJacks in Brioni suits and Hermes ties that they don't appreciate, and dudes in Nice Collective.