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The button stance thread - Page 5

post #61 of 63
Just to state the obvious: button stance varies from one style to the next. There's no "correct" button stance; different stances are correct for different cuts, styles, fashions, etc.
post #62 of 63

I didn't really want to grave dig, but I dont see a reason to start a new thread either.

 

I still don't really get how button stance is measured and a lot of sites like GQ says short guys should go for a lower button stance, but they never really explain how button stances are measured. So what is considered high, standard and low button stance? What would be considered low or too high for a relatively short guy that's 5'7?

 

I bought a blazer from uniqlo and it's has a shorter length, but the top bottom seems a little high. my waist is about an inch above my navel and the button is about 1.5 inch above my waist. It was on sale, but it feels like a deal breaker to me and i might return it.

 

Thank you.

post #63 of 63
You are not the only one. These issues are complex, because button stance is only one of many aspects that contribute to how a coat looks on you.

GQ? You are better off reading books by writers like Alan Flusser (Clothes and the Man, Dressing the Man) and G. Bruce Boyer (Eminently Suitable).

Given the current fashion for relatively high button stances and gorges these days, I think a normal (i.e., neither high nor low) button stance on a 2-button single-breasted coat is about what like Manton said (upthread? or in another thread). Assuming the coat's hem ends just at the bottom of your backside and your groin, the waist button is about 1" below halfway up the coat. It will LOOK as if it were exactly in the middle, because people don't really see the coat's collar.

Basically, normal stance for a 2B these days is the stance on the current Brooks Brothers Madison 2Bs. The stance on the BB Milano 2Bs is very high.

Generally, I'd say it is good advice to tell short men who want a 2B notch lapel coat to seek out a non-high button stance and a high gorge. This lengthens the lapel and makes the torso look longer. Check out Mafoofan's Tweed in the City blog for ideas.
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