my visit to Napoli & Mina @ Napoli Su Misura

Panzeraxe II · Feb 1, 2011

Originally Posted by gdl203

**** you.

Chill bra - you seem to be having a particularly bad day.

chasingred · Feb 1, 2011

Originally Posted by TRINI

Nope. I read it more as a reinforcement in trusting the tailor and not trying to micromanage.

Originally Posted by apropos

It's a spectrum, and honestly for people new to bespoke - you & I know that it's more often than not gonna be better for bespoke noobs to take a step back and 'contribute' less, or god-forbid, micromanage a tailor with a house style.

Curious on whether people here think this "hands off" approach is appropriate for tailors such as WW Chan, as well, since (in my very ignorant opinion) it seems that Chan has less of a pronounced house style. NSM really does seem to work best when they have more control of the project, at least from what I can tell through these photos. Is the same true for Chan, however?

Will · Feb 1, 2011

Originally Posted by chasingred

Curious on whether people here think this "hands off" approach is appropriate for tailors such as WW Chan, as well, since (in my very ignorant opinion) it seems that Chan has less of a pronounced house style. NSM really does seem to work best when they have more control of the project, at least from what I can tell through these photos. Is the same true for Chan, however?

Yes, it is. A man walking in to get his first bespoke suit is unlikely to accomplish anything (other than convincing said tailor that he is an ass) by attempting to micromanage the process. Specify number of buttons, lapel style and pockets and get out of the way.

BTW, in the case of Chan, spend the extra hundred dollars on a fitting so that first suit may actually fit when you get it. They've made half a dozen things for me so far and every single one has needed a sleeve rotated at the fitting at the least.

comrade · Feb 1, 2011

Will;4075941 said:
Yes, it is. A man walking in to get his first bespoke suit is unlikely to accomplish anything (other than convincing said tailor that he is an ass) by attempting to micromanage the process. Specify number of buttons, lapel style and pockets and get out of the way.

You have made the basic argument for seeking out a tailor whose house style is closest to one's own
personal style. That is, unless your goal is a "makeover". Even though Mina has an excellent reputation
among SF members whom I respect, I doubt that I would be initially happy with her work because it differs
from my taste and, in my opinion, not suited to my build. After a few garments, I am confident that she
would produce excellent results, but the process could prove frustrating and costly.

SpallaCamiccia · Feb 1, 2011

Originally Posted by Panzeraxe II

Chill bra - you seem to be having a particularly bad day.

As always... Might have hemorroids

Lusitano · Feb 1, 2011

Originally Posted by Slewfoot

medtech - Awesome report all around. It's write ups like these that make Style Forum a worthwhile place and valuable source of information. Keep it up! :^)

This!

Thank you for the reports and pictorials!

medtech_expat · Feb 1, 2011

Originally Posted by gdl203

I am NOT a believer in buying into a tailor's aesthetic wholesale...

...I don't appreciate these being called "obsessive-compulsive", "misguided", "bastardized" or being mocked for voicing them to "a true Napolitan".

This actually wasn't the intent of my little rant at all - and at any rate nothing was directed at any individual member, yourself included. Sorry if it read this way. I suppose what I was trying to communicate is that in my particular case, I thought I understood how various stylistic details contribute to an overall aesthetic. But in my short experience with Mina, the polar opposite has yielded the unexpected benefit: it's her own aesthetic objective - customized for me - which has dictated the stylistic details. Top-down vs. bottom-up. If I had insisted on the details which I understood to be important, I don't believe I would have been as pleased with the overall result. I thought this would be a useful (although perhaps counterintuitive) perspective for those getting started with the process.

And FWIW, Mina has ideals for various body types and sensibilities. I'm looking forward to seeing other fits/pics so we can see how they differ, while maintaining an overall aesthetic which we're trying to achieve.

Originally Posted by TRINI

Nope. I read it more as a reinforcement in trusting the tailor and not trying to micromanage.

Yep. For a second I thought it was the Ambien I downed when finishing up the post.

C&A · Feb 1, 2011

Originally Posted by medtech_expat

Regarding the details of this particular suit relative to my previous commissions:

1) the coat is actually shorter; I didn't quite believe it, but Mina measured. There's some visual trickery afoot!
2) shoulders extended a touch
3) notch has come down perhaps 1cm
4) lapels are WIDER! yep, read it and weep

5) trouser waist sits about 3cm higher, almost to my natural waist
6) trouser legs fuller by about 1cm

The minor changes indeed have a great impact on the overall look of the suit. Made a very clumsy pic comparing your new pattern to the initial one

Very much like the shoulder extension resulting in a bit more drape on the back and lowering of the notch making the suit less agressive. A bit more relaxed yet shapely jacket. Also like the fuller and higher pants.

Thanks for your very informative posts and great photos. Keep up the good work!

PS. I do agree with the comments about the windsor knot. The four in hand in the picture on the right looks so much nicer.

Engi · Feb 1, 2011

Very nice report !

Ciao

Engi

taxgenius · Feb 1, 2011

"But don't micromanage her on the details. Allow her the freedom to create something which uniquely suits your body and the way you move. Allow her the opportunity to deliver a style which is genuinely Napoletano and not our misguided, bastardized interpretation - cuz why would you go to her otherwise?"

Agree. If one doesn't like her style, then use a tailor that more closely resembles what you like.

TheTukker · Feb 1, 2011

Just to be clear: I very much enjoy MT's reports here and in other places, but Greg has a point when he says:

Originally Posted by gdl203

This is getting slightly obnoxious....

MT's reports start sounding a bit much like a sales add - and that may indeed be just what people have been asking him for here - but I am almost starting to wonder what his kick-back from Mina is. Just sayin'.

Originally Posted by apropos

Damn GDL - WTF is up with you lately?

...
Your 'contributions' in this thread are doubly worthless in the sense that they have the potential to drive away someone who actually contributes to SF on the whole, yet you ***** and moan at times about how SF used to be.

Someone needs to chill; some constructive push-back every now and then can be quite helpful, also to others. You of all people, Apropos, should know that.

Originally Posted by gdl203

I must be a bit sensitive today, I don't know - maybe a bad day.

....I know I don't spend much time on MC any more because the place is rampant with crappy attitude, terrible dressers who took control of the forum and know-it-alls who know nothing... There's a reason so many are gone. I'm more at ease with the kids on SW&D these days.

Nope, don't think so on the former, but may be right on the latter (sadly).

Slewfoot · Feb 1, 2011

Originally Posted by Lonneker

but I am almost starting to wonder what his kick-back from Mina is. Just sayin'.

I don't think many - if any tailors - can afford to give kickbacks or free garments or anything of the sort. Medtech just sounds very enthusiastic and wants to share his experiences. I've been in similar positions before after getting my items from Peter Lee or touring around the factory with Chay at Alfred Sargent. I viewed it as my way of giving back to both Style Forum and the producers. I imagine Medtech feels the same way.

niidawg3 · Feb 1, 2011

Originally Posted by medtech_expat

So I had final adjustments to my 3-piece Loro Piana PoW this evening, and I have to state that Mina and Sr. Antonio have really raised the bar with what I can only describe as a ******* bang-on, next-level garment. While I'm still a bespoke novice, I can't see how either fit or aesthetics can be meaningfully improved from here. Am too tired and need to crash, so will provide details on mods from my previous commissions tomorrow, including a "reveal" which should be of great interest to NSM clients...

i've been sleeping on this thread. this is great!!

chasingred · Feb 1, 2011

Hey Med, sorry for all the questions about your collars. I'm hoping to get a new shirt made up, which is why I'm asking.

If you don't mind, could you say something about the style of your shirt collar here:

I've been noticing these more often. I like how they curve down a bit, like an upside down U. Do you, or anyone here, know what style collar that is? Are the points on that especially long?

Thanks in advance.

HEPennypacker · Feb 1, 2011

I really don't understand the problem. I think medtech, especially earlier on, was also willing to give his opinion on what he did not like about his Mina clothing. Now he's saying what he does like. If a poster has a genuine critique, then voicing that critique might add to the conversation. But attacking medtech's motives or calling him obnoxious does nothing. I will join the chorus of members who appreciate what medtech has added to the forum.

my visit to Napoli & Mina @ Napoli Su Misura

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