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my visit to Napoli & Mina @ Napoli Su Misura - Page 273

post #4081 of 4155
Quote:
Originally Posted by poorsod View Post

So which sartoria would you suggest for those who don't speak Italian and are reliable? WeakMonday has written up about other options such as Pirozzi, Volpe and Tofani, though I think he required help with translation at some points. I hear Elia Caliendo is quite good and even takes credit cards but appears quite expensive. Rubinacci is even more expensive and is a stylist. Ambrosi and Solito have had much discussed production and communication issues. OTOH, I hear Solito is very reliable if you are local. Formosa probably requires a translator. Panico looks really interesting but I suspect requires a translator too.

That's just it, once you ask for a recommendation he just tells you that his people are only for locals and/or are not taking on any new clients. He just likes to feel important.
post #4082 of 4155
Quote:
Originally Posted by poorsod View Post

So which sartoria would you suggest for those who don't speak Italian and are reliable? WeakMonday has written up about other options such as Pirozzi, Volpe and Tofani, though I think he required help with translation at some points. I hear Elia Caliendo is quite good and even takes credit cards but appears quite expensive. Rubinacci is even more expensive and is a stylist. Ambrosi and Solito have had much discussed production and communication issues. OTOH, I hear Solito is very reliable if you are local. Formosa probably requires a translator. Panico looks really interesting but I suspect requires a translator too.

So… It seems NSM would still be the most obvious solution? They have quite an attractive CMT price of 380 euros for bespoke pants, but if other tailors are willing to do a good price on three pairs of pants (if I do the same style and only have one fitting) I'm very interested to know smile.gif
post #4083 of 4155
Quote:
Originally Posted by WillingToLearn View Post

I have had good luck with MTM jackets, but need to go bespoke for NSM trousers b/c the pattern is pretty limited in terms of adjustments and if you have big/muscular thighs, it just wont work.  Honestly, i don't see it being worth the hassle of dragging fabric to Naples to maybe get 3 pairs of trousers done on a limited pattern where you aren't even sure it will work for you.

Very valid points, thanks for your inputs. In fact I do have a slim waist with long legs and a "prominent seat" so MTM may not work out. But wherever I go I would need to make an appointment on beforehand since I'm going there with my better half who donut want to spend our whole holiday searching for tailors (I know, where did I pick her up?).
post #4084 of 4155
If you are doing just pants in Naples... Send marco cerrato an email in english and he will respond in Italian. Just use google translate and tell him you want his english speaking cousin there if possible at the initial meeting. He can probably get a basted fitting in like a day but you should set time aside for a second fitting because cotton chinos may need an additional fitting session... Im not sure if he can finish all of your pants in a weekend... But it is worth asking in advance. If you want a fuller fit ask for a vintage fit (veen-tahj)... For slim say (s-leem). Practice your hand signals for fit. Pm me if you have any other questions. Should be about 300 each.
post #4085 of 4155
I told him to consider a proper tailoring operation. Why paying for the premium of the travelling service and the middle man? That kind of tailoring (unknown cutter that did not learn/train within a great Sartoria of the 1930-60) direct in Naples would be at least 30-40% cheaper.

I recall a post of you from few years ago that you even stated that if one did not have access to Naples then these "travelling tailor" we're the only options. I am free to write an informed opinion and you to disregard it to back your fantastic tailor. This is not an NsM idolatry thread and never has been. So yes I have a problem with substandard Neapolitan tailoring being sold for top class once.

But the guy is travelling to Naples and I ask/suggest to him to consider a proper operations.

I have my own tailor and I am happy with it. I have only shown a couple of suits made for me, one I was in between weight (and I have another 5 of that type) and one made when I reached sensible weight. I have since gained more weight and are currently loosing it ( the struggle of an ex athlete with a knee multiple damages), however the following would be more representative of his work for me:
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
A Gianni Volpe suit:

However there are plenty of proper tailor in Naples with bullet proof CV and reliability, especially if in need to order only chinos.
Panico, Volpe, Paone, d. Pirozzi (not the one featured often here), Ciardi amongst others (or any that came out of the cutting School of Schiraldi, Blasi, Combattente as an example) . You may also order Chinos direct from Cerrato o Mola (although the customer service is not the same as a Sartoria ).

If you want to remain in your buble then do not read it
Quote:
Originally Posted by _AMD View Post

Are you suggesting that one would not be able to meet face to face with their cutter at NsM if visiting them in Naples? What makes you say this? Have you had this experience?

Furthermore, are you suggesting that any of the tailors you would recommend are so perfect that they have never had to make an adjustment to a garment they've made? Again, peddle your bs elsewhere.

You've made these types of remarks all over threads dedicated to specific Neapolitan tailors, and in particular, often when people discuss Mina and her work.

We all get it, you live in Naples.

I've seen your clothes. I'm not overly impressed.

Nobody has ever suggested that it is better to be fitted without the cutter present, however, you are the only one shouting that it is a fool's endeavor.

Maybe stop disparaging individuals and their businesses, unless people specifically ask for that information?
post #4086 of 4155
Quote:
Originally Posted by marcodalondra View Post

I told him to consider a proper tailoring operation. Why paying for the premium of the travelling service and the middle man? That kind of tailoring (unknown cutter that did not learn/train within a great Sartoria of the 1930-60) direct in Naples would be at least 30-40% cheaper.

I recall a post of you from few years ago that you even stated that if one did not have access to Naples then these "travelling tailor" we're the only options. I am free to write an informed opinion and you to disregard it to back your fantastic tailor. This is not an NsM idolatry thread and never has been. So yes I have a problem with substandard Neapolitan tailoring being sold for top class once.

But the guy is travelling to Naples and I ask/suggest to him to consider a proper operations.

I have my own tailor and I am happy with it. I have only shown a couple of suits made for me, one I was in between weight (and I have another 5 of that type) and one made when I reached sensible weight. I have since gained more weight and are currently loosing it ( the struggle of an ex athlete with a knee multiple damages), however the following would be more representative of his work for me:
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
A Gianni Volpe suit:

However there are plenty of proper tailor in Naples with bullet proof CV and reliability, especially if in need to order only chinos.
Panico, Volpe, Paone, d. Pirozzi (not the one featured often here), Ciardi amongst others (or any that came out of the cutting School of Schiraldi, Blasi, Combattente as an example) . You may also order Chinos direct from Cerrato o Mola (although the customer service is not the same as a Sartoria ).

If you want to remain in your buble then do not read it


First of all, it is a thread to talk about Mina's work. Read the fucking title.

Second, it is a tailoring house. Just because YOU don't know the cutter's name doesn't make them unknown.

Third, I am still not overly impressed by your clothes.

Fourth, don't you have a pair of pants to wear the crotch out of? Why don't you go work on that instead of spouting useless garbage to fluff your ego?
post #4087 of 4155
Quote:
Originally Posted by _AMD View Post

First of all, it is a thread to talk about Mina's work. Read the fucking title.

Second, it is a tailoring house. Just because YOU don't know the cutter's name doesn't make them unknown.

Third, I am still not overly impressed by your clothes.

Fourth, don't you have a pair of pants to wear the crotch out of? Why don't you go work on that instead of spouting useless garbage to fluff your ego?

1-
@_AMD: the title talks about someone visit to Naples and then them, (the OP was featured on their website...), so I can read and I am addressing the Naples visit part.
The thread has evolved and It has plenty of posts of critiques and alternative options.
Open your own thread about NsM best "tailoring" house in the world and in the OP state the rules for which comparisons to others are not welcome. Then blown your own trumpets.

2-
They were honestly advertising their service as stylist, it has later evolved into "tailoring house" with plenty of evidence of not having an "house style" as their cutters /tailors/ outsourcing are constantly changing (not my word, read this thread)

3- to each his own, I am not impressed about any of the things posted here and how these are achieved, hence I am free to express my opinion as you are of yours

4- I do that everyday. I am about to order some cloth for replacement trousers in fact.
post #4088 of 4155
Quote:
Originally Posted by marcodalondra View Post

1-
@_AMD: the title talks about someone visit to Naples and then them, (the OP was featured on their website...), so I can read and I am addressing the Naples visit part.
The thread has evolved and It has plenty of posts of critiques and alternative options.
Open your own thread about NsM best "tailoring" house in the world and in the OP state the rules for which comparisons to others are not welcome. Then blown your own trumpets.

2-
They were honestly advertising their service as stylist, it has later evolved into "tailoring house" with plenty of evidence of not having an "house style" as their cutters /tailors/ outsourcing are constantly changing (not my word, read this thread)

3- to each his own, I am not impressed about any of the things posted here and how these are achieved, hence I am free to express my opinion as you are of yours

4- I do that everyday. I am about to order some cloth for replacement trousers in fact.

1. I don't need to start a thread about NsM and their work. This is it! Maybe YOU should start a thread that is Marcodalondra's Sartoria Napoletana Critque Thread?

2. What is your point about how they started? Are you suggesting that businesses do not evolve?

3. You are free to express your opinion. It is more valued when it has been requested, or at least is in the vein of the conversation, however. The op did not ask for recommendations for tailors in Naples. He asked specifically about NsM's service from those that had experience. Do you have experience with NsM? Have you ever even met or spoken with Mina?

4. Congratulations
post #4089 of 4155
Quote:
Originally Posted by _AMD View Post

1. I don't need to start a thread about NsM and their work. This is it! Maybe YOU should start a thread that is Marcodalondra's Sartoria Napoletana Critque Thread?

2. What is your point about how they started? Are you suggesting that businesses do not evolve?

3. You are free to express your opinion. It is more valued when it has been requested, or at least is in the vein of the conversation, however. The op did not ask for recommendations for tailors in Naples. He asked specifically about NsM's service from those that had experience. Do you have experience with NsM? Have you ever even met or spoken with Mina?

4. Congratulations

I think SKM is engaged in the discussion about alternatives, and his question to which I suggested "considering" alternatives, was about him not being sure to achieve what he wanted in the timeframe available. So, your whole logic of why I should not write in here has no sense. Do not worry, still feel good about using their service in your city.

Also, you may have confused me with someone else, as I have made recommendations and reviews before (in a post above you alledge that I say that my tailors are for local...).
Weakmonday has also posted about Cerrato (and many proper Sartoria ) offering bespoke trousers CMT for about 300 euro, so no need to pay the travelling service price of 380 (for the number of chinos SKM want to commission he can get an extra one with the difference...). For the record, at the same price, I would always go to a Sartoria rather then directly to trouser makers, based on personal experience, but that is my opinion/experience.
When and if you go to Naples and want to still pay more then 25% travelling premium to your trousers, you can ignore this whole exchange and feel good about how you spend your money and the quality/value proposition.

Edit: I have spoken to few of the people she has used to make things under her travelling service, so I know what is going on behind the scene.
Also, to make it clear that no one knows a "tailoring house" call NsM in Naples...
And final edit, why you have not responded about my question on your statement that she is a trained tailor/cutter???
Edited by marcodalondra - 3/17/16 at 4:06am
post #4090 of 4155
Quote:
Originally Posted by marcodalondra View Post

I think SKM is engaged in the discussion about alternatives, and his question to which I suggested "considering" alternatives, was about him not being sure to achieve what he wanted in the timeframe available. So, your whole logic of why I should not write in here has no sense. Do not worry, still feel good about using their service in your city.

Also, you may have confused me with someone else, as I have made recommendations and reviews before (in a post above you alledge that I say that my tailors are for local...).
Weakmonday has also posted about Cerrato (and many proper Sartoria ) offering bespoke trousers CMT for about 300 euro, so no need to pay the travelling service price of 380 (for the number of chinos SKM want to commission he can get an extra one with the difference...). For the record, at the same price, I would always go to a Sartoria rather then directly to trouser makers, based on personal experience, but that is my opinion/experience.
When and if you go to Naples and want to still pay more then 25% travelling premium to your trousers, you can ignore this whole exchange and feel good about how you spend your money and the quality/value proposition.

Edit: I have spoken to few of the people she has used to make things under her travelling service, so I know what is going own behind the scene.
Also, to make it clear that no one knows a "tailoring house" call NsM in Naples...
And final edit, why you have not responded about my question on your statement that she is a trained tailor/cutter???

I stated she was trained as a tailor. I do not have all of the details of her training, nor would I share them here if I did. That is for Mina to share. What I know, and have stated, is that she was trained as a tailor and worked as one prior to going out on her own.

As to SKM asking for options, this is his post to which you replied...
Quote:
Originally Posted by S K M View Post

Anyone has experience with NSM's MTM programme? How many styles to chose from/what can be customized?

I finally got response from them (cf. my post above) but communication is rather slow to say the least. Will visit them in April but not sure if I should go bespoke since I only stay for four days.

Thanks in advance! smile.gif

Find me anything in that post that suggests he is asking for your two cents on sartorial options in Naples or elsewhere.

I may have misunderstood your many posts about Naples based tailors not working with tourists (or outsiders). I read it as you referring to your tailors. Maybe you were being more generic. If I have mischaracterized you in that regard, I apologize. You were only be condescending in general, not specific.

I'm sure you've heard stories about Mina in Naples. It is no secret that tailors like to gossip about each other in the city. It is generally not expected that the gossip is in the form of praise.

You live in Naples and are therefore, I'm sure, familiar with pricing structures. Please don't concern yourself with what I pay for my clothing.

I'm still left wondering why you feel the need to chastise everyone's choice of tailor in Naples when their choice not match your own.
post #4091 of 4155
Quote:
Originally Posted by _AMD View Post

I stated she was trained as a tailor. I do not have all of the details of her training, nor would I share them here if I did. That is for Mina to share. What I know, and have stated, is that she was trained as a tailor and worked as one prior to going out on her own.

As to SKM asking for options, this is his post to which you replied...
Find me anything in that post that suggests he is asking for your two cents on sartorial options in Naples or elsewhere.

I may have misunderstood your many posts about Naples based tailors not working with tourists (or outsiders). I read it as you referring to your tailors. Maybe you were being more generic. If I have mischaracterized you in that regard, I apologize. You were only be condescending in general, not specific.

I'm sure you've heard stories about Mina in Naples. It is no secret that tailors like to gossip about each other in the city. It is generally not expected that the gossip is in the form of praise.

You live in Naples and are therefore, I'm sure, familiar with pricing structures. Please don't concern yourself with what I pay for my clothing.

I'm still left wondering why you feel the need to chastise everyone's choice of tailor in Naples when their choice not match your own.

He was concerned with going MTM vs Bespoke and to get things done in 4 days, so I have asked him to consider proper tailors in the city!

Facts:
She was working as a shop assistant/stylist. She has stated before through some of her customers that she was not a tailor. She may or may not have attended the modellista school in Italy (concerned with factory production modelling). If she ever did then chalk signs and note on a work sheet would be all it is needed for the coat maker/trousermaker/waistcoat maker. The tailoring training is a new story, I gues to address the concerned raised on this and other Internet forum over the last few years.

No one refer to her or NsM as a tailor as she is no competition in the city, and by the way I never heard proper tailors refer negative comments about each other but only comments that they all at some point or another have worked with each other at one of the major Sartoria like Schiraldi or Blasi. They all respect the training and apprenterships they went through and recognise the cutting school that has influenced each other. I did hear comments in a negative fashion, substantiated by technical evidence, that a lot of guys are setting up shops without having ever learned the proper cut and construction.

There is a worrying trend of Industrial modelist and few coming off Kiton RTW construction school that are setting up Sartoria pushed by "brand ambassadors" (the Instagram name for blog schiller as someone else on this forum call them) and therefore offering a different product masking it for Neapolitan.
On a positive note, the most recent winner of the Campanian selection of the Forbici d'oro, for his second time (won in 2014 and 2016) is an young ex alumni of Kiton School that has however spent 4 years training and working under Gennaro Paone (himself a Schiraldi protégée) at Rubinacci before returning at Kiton to work in their Bespoke operation (I think they now offer the traditional Neapolitan cut in their top bespoke line), so there is some hope for the future.

BTW I am a born and raised (and proud) Neapolitan but live in London.
Edited by marcodalondra - 3/17/16 at 5:45am
post #4092 of 4155
Quote:
Originally Posted by poorsod View Post


So which sartoria would you suggest for those who don't speak Italian and are reliable? WeakMonday has written up about other options such as Pirozzi, Volpe and Tofani, though I think he required help with translation at some points. I hear Elia Caliendo is quite good and even takes credit cards but appears quite expensive. Rubinacci is even more expensive and is a stylist. Ambrosi and Solito have had much discussed production and communication issues. OTOH, I hear Solito is very reliable if you are local. Formosa probably requires a translator. Panico looks really interesting but I suspect requires a translator too.

 

Are way more tailors than always the hyped ones all the time. For the translator, only a few Neapolitans, and all young do speak English, never met an old Italian who does, is normal. 

 

And my thought about Mina, is that I have seen way better fits on the forum “done” by her (I mean is done by proper tailors under her request) than by tons of so called master tailors who charge double or even more that are shilled all the time by those bloggers I expose all the time.

 

BTW just found this semi-shill article on the internet, is a bit crap and as ALL related to tailoring on the mainstream is FAKE, per example, Kiton does not have 750 workers or Tofani doesn´t deserves to be on this list since he is totally unknown locally and can´t be compared to legends as Eddy Monetti, Attolini, Marinella or Rubinacci. 

 

This is what happens when someone gets a freebie;

 

SHILL;

 

http://www.snapitaly.it/sartoria-napoletana/


Edited by SartodiNapoli - 3/17/16 at 11:19am
post #4093 of 4155

Reviving this thread - has anyone had/got any ongoing commissions with NSM - how have you found it

post #4094 of 4155
A few recent fittings...

A somewhat adventurous shawl DB DJ...we're going to change the shape of the lapels to put some more belly in...also lengthening the jacket a bit, cleaning up the wrinkles, etc.


Other Angles (Click to show)


Some casual moleskin trousers, just a little work to do on these:


Other Angles (Click to show)



Dark blue linen peak lapel tuxedo, a little work to do including lengthening the front:


Other Angles (Click to show)

post #4095 of 4155
A linen tuxedo? And you say a DB shawl tux is adventurous.

peepwall[1].gif
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