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my visit to Napoli & Mina @ Napoli Su Misura - Page 252

post #3766 of 3926
Quote:
Originally Posted by poorsod View Post

You might enjoy reading the House of God my Samuel Shem. It is about medical internship in the 70s at Beth Israel in Boston. There was a nurse nicknamed "Thunder Thighs" and etc.

On the one hand, that sounds like a very funny book. On the other I'm not sure I want to know where my surgeon's hands have been.
post #3767 of 3926
Nice post.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cantabrigian View Post

Here are three takes on a soft, Naples-y shoulder.

Rubinacci


Solito


Mina


I put them in order of increasing slope at the end of the shoulder. Now onto why each shoulder looks the way it does.

Even a jacket with a very shoft shoulder, will have something in the sleevehead to make the sleeves fall straight. (The ripples in the sleevehead are due to something different - it's been written about extensively elsewhere but it's akin to shirring.)

For some bizarre reason, people like to say their stuff is completely unpadded. While that's not true, it's become an article of faith for some people so I'll avoid using the P-word. Let's uinstead refer to this as 'stuff that helps the sleeve hang nicely' or STHTSHN for short.

As I mentioned upthreak, the bump at the end of a NSM shoulder starts where the STHTSHN starts.

As you might be able to see from these photos, both the NSM and the Rubinacci have visible STHTSHN:


^ it's fairly obvious on the NSM


^ It's definitely there on the 'Nacci but it's slightly harder to see due to the thicker fabric so here are some ghetto red lines, courtesy of Paint and my nerves of steel:



So, given that they both have STHTSHN and roughly the same amount of it (i.e. is starts in about the same place on the shoulder) why does the NSM have a bump at the end while the 'Nacci is bump-free?

Two reasons - (1) the Rubinacci has more padding throughout the shoulder and (2) the Rubinacci has an extended shoulder

1) more padding throughout the shoulder

This is something that's really hard (at least for my meager ability) to capture on camera but what I've tried to convey here is a sense for how much padding is present throughout the shoulder and especially right where the STHTSHN starts…
Pedantry (Click to show)
Rubinacci




Don't get me wrong, it feels like butta but there something in there. It's not pre-formed padding and the Thomas Mahonian term of 'wadding' seems appropriate but there's something in there, especially at the sleevehead helping to smooth the transition to the STHTSHN.


Solito




Solito is a similar to Rubinacci, though with perhaps a but less wadding throughout the shoulder.


Mina Su Misura






There just absolutely nothing in there. It's more obvious with the thin cloth. But it's just cloth, canvas and lining until you hit the STHTSHN.

(As an aside, that visible basting stitch - and it's not the only one - always bugs me.)


2) extended shoulder

If you stare at these photos for quite a while, there a chance you'll notice that the 'Nacci and the Solito have a similar amount of padding throughout the shoulder but the Solito has a little bump at the end, whereas the 'Nacci does not.

That's down to the second reason that NSM has a bump at the end, while Rubinacci does not - the 'Nacci has an extended shoulder.

On the NSM, the STHTSHN sits atop my shoulder bone. On the Rubinacci, the STHTSHN sits atop empty space, my ripped triceps being a little bit lower.

It looks like Luca, prefers a less extended shoulder and that - I'd conjecture - is why he has a Solito-like bump at the end of his shoulder.

post #3768 of 3926
Quote:
Originally Posted by Leaves View Post


Have to agree about the shoes. A pair of G&G Cambridge in Vintage Oak, or say, a pair of EG Dover in Mink Suede would greatly improve that extremely nice outfit.

In regards of lapels, I'm all for wide ones, but one has to have the frame for it, of course.

This is my first suit from NSM. Lapel is about 10 cm, shoulder about 19.5 cm. My next SCs will have the same width lapels but one even slightly wider, a brown Donegal, the cloth called for it IMO, I'll post pics later when I get it. Feedback welcome.


Sorry for the crappy iPhone pic.

 

Looking great from what I can see! I really hope NSM would stop by Copenhagen one day so feel free to pitch the idea for them next time they're around. Stockholm is a bit far, even when living in Copenhagen :(

post #3769 of 3926
Quote:
Originally Posted by archetypal_yuppie View Post

Nice post.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cantabrigian View Post

Here are three takes on a soft, Naples-y shoulder.
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
Rubinacci


Solito


Mina


I put them in order of increasing slope at the end of the shoulder. Now onto why each shoulder looks the way it does.

Even a jacket with a very shoft shoulder, will have something in the sleevehead to make the sleeves fall straight. (The ripples in the sleevehead are due to something different - it's been written about extensively elsewhere but it's akin to shirring.)

For some bizarre reason, people like to say their stuff is completely unpadded. While that's not true, it's become an article of faith for some people so I'll avoid using the P-word. Let's uinstead refer to this as 'stuff that helps the sleeve hang nicely' or STHTSHN for short.

As I mentioned upthreak, the bump at the end of a NSM shoulder starts where the STHTSHN starts.

As you might be able to see from these photos, both the NSM and the Rubinacci have visible STHTSHN:


^ it's fairly obvious on the NSM


^ It's definitely there on the 'Nacci but it's slightly harder to see due to the thicker fabric so here are some ghetto red lines, courtesy of Paint and my nerves of steel:



So, given that they both have STHTSHN and roughly the same amount of it (i.e. is starts in about the same place on the shoulder) why does the NSM have a bump at the end while the 'Nacci is bump-free?

Two reasons - (1) the Rubinacci has more padding throughout the shoulder and (2) the Rubinacci has an extended shoulder

1) more padding throughout the shoulder

This is something that's really hard (at least for my meager ability) to capture on camera but what I've tried to convey here is a sense for how much padding is present throughout the shoulder and especially right where the STHTSHN starts…
Pedantry (Click to show)
Rubinacci




Don't get me wrong, it feels like butta but there something in there. It's not pre-formed padding and the Thomas Mahonian term of 'wadding' seems appropriate but there's something in there, especially at the sleevehead helping to smooth the transition to the STHTSHN.


Solito




Solito is a similar to Rubinacci, though with perhaps a but less wadding throughout the shoulder.


Mina Su Misura






There just absolutely nothing in there. It's more obvious with the thin cloth. But it's just cloth, canvas and lining until you hit the STHTSHN.

(As an aside, that visible basting stitch - and it's not the only one - always bugs me.)


2) extended shoulder

If you stare at these photos for quite a while, there a chance you'll notice that the 'Nacci and the Solito have a similar amount of padding throughout the shoulder but the Solito has a little bump at the end, whereas the 'Nacci does not.

That's down to the second reason that NSM has a bump at the end, while Rubinacci does not - the 'Nacci has an extended shoulder.

On the NSM, the STHTSHN sits atop my shoulder bone. On the Rubinacci, the STHTSHN sits atop empty space, my ripped triceps being a little bit lower.

It looks like Luca, prefers a less extended shoulder and that - I'd conjecture - is why he has a Solito-like bump at the end of his shoulder.


A lot of work to make this post but nothing mentioned here is relevant or accurate.

What all three jackets have in common is canvass. What is different is how the maker wants to form/shape the canvass to sit on the shoulder. NSM stretches the canvass and it turns up. The others don't. The Rubi is tight at the shoulder point and doesn't touch the neck. For the shoulder to be concave or straight or sometimes convex is all about the construction technique and all of these can be done with or without using shoulder pads.

The red line produced on the jacket is an outline of the internal seam of the jacket and the sleeve which are both turned under the shoulder.

Almost all, 99.9%, of sleeves have a sleeve head attached, not on the shoulder but at the top/crown of the sleeve. The sleeve head is made from different fabrics or a mix of different materials sewn on the outlet of the sleeve to fill in the crown and front of the sleeve and continues to just past the seam on the back of the sleeve. Some like thin sleeve heads or maybe just a bias cut piece of hymo or soft fleece. It's all up to the maker and the expression they want to create.
post #3770 of 3926
Quote:
Originally Posted by Despos View Post

A lot of work to make this post but nothing mentioned here is relevant or accurate.

What all three jackets have in common is canvass. What is different is how the maker wants to form/shape the canvass to sit on the shoulder. NSM stretches the canvass and it turns up. The others don't. The Rubi is tight at the shoulder point and doesn't touch the neck. For the shoulder to be concave or straight or sometimes convex is all about the construction technique and all of these can be done with or without using shoulder pads.

The red line produced on the jacket is an outline of the internal seam of the jacket and the sleeve which are both turned under the shoulder.

Almost all, 99.9%, of sleeves have a sleeve head attached, not on the shoulder but at the top/crown of the sleeve. The sleeve head is made from different fabrics or a mix of different materials sewn on the outlet of the sleeve to fill in the crown and front of the sleeve and continues to just past the seam on the back of the sleeve. Some like thin sleeve heads or maybe just a bias cut piece of hymo or soft fleece. It's all up to the maker and the expression they want to create.

Probably puts an end to the misguided pa fucked argument and get people to post great clothing
Edited by kulata - 3/1/14 at 12:33pm
post #3771 of 3926
It is amazing what can be done with simple shaping in a jacket...
post #3772 of 3926
Quote:
Originally Posted by dieworkwear View Post

I think he wanted a narrow lapel and soft shoulder though, like this.

post #3773 of 3926
Quote:
Originally Posted by Leaves View Post


This is my first suit from NSM. Lapel is about 10 cm, shoulder about 19.5 cm. My next SCs will have the same width lapels but one even slightly wider, a brown Donegal, the cloth called for it IMO, I'll post pics later when I get it. Feedback welcome.


+100
post #3774 of 3926
Quote:
Originally Posted by Despos View Post

The Rubi is tight at the shoulder point and doesn't touch the neck.

Funny enough the shoulder on the Rubinacci is by far the most extended. To the point where people who generally don't notice these things will comment on it.

But maybe you mean something else by 'tight at the shoulder point.'
post #3775 of 3926
Quote:
Originally Posted by Despos View Post

A lot of work to make this post but nothing mentioned here is relevant or accurate.
So much win.
post #3776 of 3926
Cantabrigian, I notice your NSM has a lot more drape than mine. Was it a request?
post #3777 of 3926
At my last visit with Mina and Dino, it came out that Sic Tess cottons are by Bonfanti. Had anyone else heard that? It would explain why those feel as nice as they do.
post #3778 of 3926
Quote:
Originally Posted by Concordia View Post

At my last visit with Mina and Dino, it came out that Sic Tess cottons are by Bonfanti. Had anyone else heard that? It would explain why those feel as nice as they do.

I'd be surprised. I've only purchased from Bonfanti 3-4 times, but it always seemed like a small operation. Not sure they would have the capacity.
post #3779 of 3926
Quote:
Originally Posted by Concordia View Post

At my last visit with Mina and Dino, it came out that Sic Tess cottons are by Bonfanti. Had anyone else heard that? It would explain why those feel as nice as they do.

Mina said she knows this because she paid Bonfanti directly for it. Not sure if it is all the fabrics or just the one I was looking at. I thought it was the linen. . .
post #3780 of 3926
Quote:
Originally Posted by poorsod View Post

Mina said she knows this because she paid Bonfanti directly for it. Not sure if it is all the fabrics or just the one I was looking at. I thought it was the linen. . .

Interesting- was it linen/cotton? There was one in the SIC Tess book that looks exactly like what I just had made up from Bonfanti.....
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