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my visit to Napoli & Mina @ Napoli Su Misura - Page 238

post #3556 of 3961
How do they adjust the height of the pockets?
post #3557 of 3961
Very nice Gus. Not a fan of the hacking pockets, but that's another winner.
post #3558 of 3961
Quote:
Originally Posted by gusvs View Post

Double breasted overcoat in 760 gr/25 Oz Dugdale fabric.

Height of pockets will be adjusted and sleeves lengthened:

This looks beautiful. Congrats !
post #3559 of 3961
That looks great, gives my coat a run for its money
post #3560 of 3961

Sleeves a bit short? Your preference of course.

 

Edit: oops, didn't read your comment.

post #3561 of 3961
Stunning.
post #3562 of 3961
Thanks everyone!
Quote:
Originally Posted by agjiffy View Post

How do they adjust the height of the pockets?

They will actually recut the whole front.
Edited by gusvs - 9/22/13 at 7:09am
post #3563 of 3961
Quote:
Originally Posted by gusvs View Post

Tanks everyone!
Quote:
Originally Posted by agjiffy View Post

How do they adjust the height of the pockets?

They will actually recut the whole front.

Since they are remaking this, I suggest rethinking the styling details. I see a disconnect with the lapels and the other elements of this coat. If they were not going to recut this I would not have commented.

If you prefer this lapel style I would lose the breast pocket and change to a 3X3 button configuration. Make the lapels so they would cross over and button to the top. Make the sleeves wider/fuller. Change pockets. Raise the belt in back 1inch.

If you prefer the 3X2 button style, make this with peak lapels, keep the breast pocket, lose the cuffs on the sleeves, lengthen coat up to 2 inches.

The styling elements at present seem to contradict each other.

Is it the angle of the picture or are the pocket flaps at different angles? The left flap looks to be more slanted than the other. Is that part of what you noticed or just how low they are positioned on the coat.
post #3564 of 3961
Quote:
Originally Posted by gusvs View Post

Tanks everyone!
They will actually recut the whole front.

Glad to hear. Something really off with those pockets (are they at different heights?). Things go wrong with bespoke and one of the tests of a good tailor is whether they truly fix their mistakes or try to explain them away or are minor tweaks. It otherwise looks great, so I'd bet you end up with something wonderful.
post #3565 of 3961
Quote:
Originally Posted by Despos View Post

Since they are remaking this, I suggest rethinking the styling details. I see a disconnect with the lapels and the other elements of this coat. If they were not going to recut this I would not have commented.

If you prefer this lapel style I would lose the breast pocket and change to a 3X3 button configuration. Make the lapels so they would cross over and button to the top. Make the sleeves wider/fuller. Change pockets. Raise the belt in back 1inch.

If you prefer the 3X2 button style, make this with peak lapels, keep the breast pocket, lose the cuffs on the sleeves, lengthen coat up to 2 inches.

The styling elements at present seem to contradict each other.

Is it the angle of the picture or are the pocket flaps at different angles? The left flap looks to be more slanted than the other. Is that part of what you noticed or just how low they are positioned on the coat.

Thanks Chris for your comments. The styling I actually prefer as it is. Taka's (Liverano) coat was my inspiration (http://cdn.styleforum.net/0/09/097225a4_505.jpeg), and although I knew it would not come close to his coat, I believe I have come as close as I can with NSM. I will make some minor adjustments, such as the belt in the back and possibly lengthen the coat a bit.

Yes, the flaps came out at different angles, as well as (according to me) too low.
post #3566 of 3961

I recently bought my first NSM jacket and have been impressed by the Mina and Dino's professionalism and overall pleasantness. However, I have a few questions/concerns of my own. To be clear this is my first 'bespoke' Neopolitan jacket (after many MTM jackets/suits from RL Black Label, I know 'apples and oranges' but thought I should mention it). Also, I used a relatively, heavier herringbone fabric and opted for a two button jacket rather than the typical (3/2 roll) and I have only worn the jacket about a dozen times.

 

My first question/concern was the stitching on the two back vents/flaps is quite noticable and cumbersome. I have tried to include close up photos to help elaborate. Mina and Dino said it was due to the hand stitching/finishing and that it was not a mistake but perhaps a little bit of ironing would help. Anyone else have this concern?!?

 

Photo 1 shows a close up of the stitching on the outside of the jacket.

Photo 2 shows the the same area but further away.

Photo 3 shows the stitching of the interior of the jacket from a distance.

Photo 4 shows a close up of the stitching from the interior of the jacket.

AppleMark

AppleMark

AppleMark

AppleMark

 

The second concern/question is related to what seems to be, IMO, the primary topic of this thread, the NSM shoulder line. After reading the entire thread over the past few weeks, (BTW, all the comments that are meant to be funny/snarky get really annoying when you are researching/bingeing on SF) I am obliged to say that Mafoofan seems to be correct in the majority of his analysis of the NSM shoulder line. This is especially true as far as my jacket is concerned. Patrick Booth also made an especially pertinent comment in regards to the fit of his and my NSM jacket. Paraphrasing here but in short the 'wonky' shoulder line seems to disappear when moving his shoulders forward. I have a similar experience albeit in the opposite direction, when I throw my shoulders back the wonky shoulder line disappears ((but creates havoc on the front quarters area). 

 

As I said this was my first experience with bespoke NSM and didn't address the shoulder line with Mina and Dino as yet but will do so at my next appointment in December. I am currently in the process of comissioning another jacket (of lighter weight fabric) in the traditonal 3/2 roll but want to sort out the issues at hand before moving forward.

Anyways, any and all suggestions or thoughts are appreciated. 

post #3567 of 3961
^
Can we see some fit pics?
post #3568 of 3961
All I can see is a big water stain on the coat? Stitching on the vents looks fine to me, heavier fabrics will of course have bulkier stitching. I'd be taking it to the dry cleaner quick sticks to look at the stain and see if they can press it a bit at the same time.
post #3569 of 3961

^ +1

 

And as for the shoulder, ask for a tiny bit of wadding.

post #3570 of 3961
What you see is an impression from the cloth under the vents. Since the jacket is unlined they folded the edges under and they are bulky. Jacket was pressed hard and you see ridges from the underlying cloth. On this heavy cloth it would be better to tape the seams to relieve the bulk and avoid the impressions.

The shoulder issue has nothing to do with what has been discussed here. The shape is an effect from the canvass and the way it is shaped/stretched at the shoulder to create room for your shoulder point. Most all shoulder effects are produced by the cut/shaping of the canvass. Cloth follows the contour in the canvass and has no form on it's own.
It starts to look wonky when the shoulder seam is positioned too far to the back and the position of the shaped canvass shoots upward rather than forward. That creates the Nike swoosh logo effect.
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