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my visit to Napoli & Mina @ Napoli Su Misura - Page 236

post #3526 of 3944
Those suits look great, Butler. I would never do contrast slipping on the vest, but I can see how you would want to if you were going to occasionally combine the two suits as you mentioned.

How does the gabardine wear in summer?
post #3527 of 3944
Quote:
Originally Posted by UrbanComposition View Post

Those suits look great, Butler. I would never do contrast slipping on the vest, but I can see how you would want to if you were going to occasionally combine the two suits as you mentioned.

How does the gabardine wear in summer?

You are in San Francisco right? It should wear pretty comfortable as it does in Danish summers, wouldn't wear it in a tropical situation.

I might coincidently come your way later in the summer, and try it out.

By the way, it is the most crease resistant gabardine I have! bigstar[1].gif
post #3528 of 3944
Quote:
Originally Posted by Despos View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by maomao1980 View Post
I still don't like how the shoulder lifts up at the sleeve joint please ask them to press it down.

Quote:
Originally Posted by mafoofan View Post
Is it just me, or do a lot of Mina's jacket's have slightly concave shoulders (vaguely pagodo-like)?

Not pagoda style but concave, yes. There is a discussion of this, complete with red lines, in a NSM thread Edmorel started. Maybe it can be found and posted here.

This shape/expression won't show up on the try-on garment as much as in the finished jacket.

To me, this is the biggest draw to Mina's jackets. This is the hardest shoulder to make and very few tailors are able to execute this very well. Most don't want to try. I've spent years seeking tailors who make this to learn from. IMO this shoulder gives the most freedom and movement to a jacket and sits/stays on the shoulder the best. This is a thing of beauty! If you don't care for the aesthetic, I'm sure she will accommodate with a different profile of shoulder but asking to flatten and press it down is like being at the best steak house in town and putting ketchup on your steak. As this shoulder isn't seen much I can see how it would look unnaturally different to what is the more common ways of shoulder construction.

 

The "natural pagoda" discussion can be traced way back into this thread and now we know for sure that another high qualified professional favors it.

post #3529 of 3944
Quote:
Originally Posted by Victor Elfo View Post

The "natural pagoda" discussion can be traced way back into this thread and now we know for sure that another high qualified professional favors it.
But he's in Brazil, and probably isn't even a lawyer.
post #3530 of 3944
For those who missed the Despos and jefferyd discussion of the NSM shoulder quite a few years ago.

http://www.styleforum.net/t/189479/sportjacket-napolisumisura-details/30_30#post_3410300
Quote:
Originally Posted by Despos
Post 27 of this thread. If you look at the shoulder pics, follow the shoulder line from the shoulder to the sleeve. The sleeve line is cut with a concave line and you see the shoulder rise up a bit as it reaches the sleeve rather than just a straight line from neck to sleeve. It gives more freedom at the shoulder point, more movement and holds the jacket shoulder closer to your natural shoulder. If you hold my jacket on your cupped hand under the shoulder, the shoulder moves forward like it is hinged at the neck. Makes the jacket move with you in a good way. It is just different. Some tailors don't care for it, I do.

post #3531 of 3944
Nice quote, poorsod. Through it we can get a technical reasoning behind what seemed to be a stylistic choice.
post #3532 of 3944
NSM linen trousers, Simonet Goddard chambray shirt and detached collar by Sean O'Flynn, Hermes tie and nubucks by John Lobb, St. James's

While I fully subscribe to the charm of a wrinkled coat, the same does not go for trousers. I dislike the unbecoming way they wrinkle and thus subscribe to the old adage of getting two pairs made and change at midday.
bigstar[1].gif

PS And yes I'm aware of the tie, tied too long:)


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post #3533 of 3944
I like the way those trousers and the shirt fit you, Butler. Classic proportions with the high waist and the slight break and the relaxed fit of the shirt body.
post #3534 of 3944
Great stuff, Butler. And I share your feelings on wrinkled pants vs. wrinkled jackets. I had considered getting two suits that I could mix as you have done, one in fresco and one in cotton/linen, but the idea of wearing the cotton/linen pants with the fresco up top kind of put me off.

What weight did you go with for your linen?
post #3535 of 3944
Quote:
Originally Posted by Shirts Anderson View Post

Great stuff, Butler. And I share your feelings on wrinkled pants vs. wrinkled jackets. I had considered getting two suits that I could mix as you have done, one in fresco and one in cotton/linen, but the idea of wearing the cotton/linen pants with the fresco up top kind of put me off.

What weight did you go with for your linen?




I agree, you would risk getting the dreaded "suit jacket used as an odd jacket" look!

In my case, is it not only the same material, but the buttons are identical on the suits. I don't know what weight, but it is W.Bill's and rather heavy.
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post #3536 of 3944
Butler, I'm diggin the cream ones, mina did a great job
post #3537 of 3944
The W Bill feels at like at least 12/13 oz.



Butler, which shade did you get?
post #3538 of 3944
Quote:
Originally Posted by poorsod View Post

The W Bill feels at like at least 12/13 oz.



Butler, which shade did you get?

I picked it up myself at W. Bill and don't have the number - I would call it Ivory, like your middle one I presume bigstar[1].gif
post #3539 of 3944
Butler, love the silhouette and fit of those pants. Not so keen on the height of the waistband and width of the belt loops. A belt that casual just looks off when juxtaposed with double pleats and pronounced crease (and a tie). I think you'd be better suited with a thinner, less militaristic-looking belt. Otherwise the pents look great. My $0.02.
post #3540 of 3944
Quote:
Originally Posted by bourbonbasted View Post

Butler, love the silhouette and fit of those pants. Not so keen on the height of the waistband and width of the belt loops. A belt that casual just looks off when juxtaposed with double pleats and pronounced crease (and a tie). I think you'd be better suited with a thinner, less militaristic-looking belt. Otherwise the pents look great. My $0.02.

The trousers are made for and mostly worn with braces and part of a 3 piece suit - I just have the loops on for the rare occasion, when they are worn without the jacket! bigstar[1].gif
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