Recent Images In This Thread
Related Forum Threads
- ISAIA NAPOLI - SUPER HUGE MEGATHREAD - Suits, Sport Coats, Jackets, Pants, Ties, Hangers &... Last post on 11/13/13 at 7:07am in Classic Menswear Classifieds
- PRICE DROP! BNWT -Zegna - Navy Blue. Fully Canvassed. 40R suit - !PRICE DROP! Last post on 10/19/12 at 8:02am in Classic Menswear Classifieds
- Please critique my first suit! Last post on 9/15/11 at 8:36am in Classic Menswear
- Thoughts and opinions on Gray SC, Pocket square and tie combos........ Last post on 4/6/14 at 11:56pm in Classic Menswear
- Dark shirt on dark suit? Last post on 8/25/11 at 2:32pm in Classic Menswear
What Kind of Suit Should I Buy?
Last edited: 6/4/12
- How Should I Start My Business Wardrobe?Last edited: 5/16/13
- Choosing Men's Designer SuitsLast edited: 11/8/13
- What Should I Ask My Groomsmen to Wear?Last edited: 9/2/13
- What Should I Wear To A Job Interview?Last edited: 7/25/13
- Andrew Lock
- Awl & Sundry
- The Armoury
- Bespoke England
- Blacksmith Labs
- Blue Owl
- Carson Street Clothiers
- Conrad Wu
- David Reeves Bespoke
- Drinkwater's Cambridge
- Elite Suits
- Equus Leather
- Exquisite Trimmings
- A Fine Pair of Shoes
- Foster & Son
- Franco Ercole Bespoke
- Gentlemen's Footwear
- Gentry NYC
- Gordon Yao, Hong Kong
- Gramercy York
- The Hanger Project
- Henry Carter Neckwear
- Howard Yount
- John Elliott + Co
- Kent Wang
- Khaki's of Carmel
- Luxire Custom Clothing
- M Classic 101
- Meermin Mallorca
- Modern Tailor
- Need Supply Co.
- Neo Nouveau
- No Man Walks Alone
- Oscar Hunt
- Portland Dry Goods
- Proper Cloth
- Roden Gray
- Sebastian Ward
- S.E.H Kelly
- Self Edge
- Spier & Mackay
- Standard & Strange
- Temple of jawnz
- Thurston Bros.
- Uncle Otis
- Vastrm Fashion
- Virtual Clotheshorse
- Wrong Weather
- Yellow Hook Necktie
my visit to Napoli & Mina @ Napoli Su Misura - Page 228post #3406 of 39285/29/13 at 9:38am
Styleforum Top Pickspost #3407 of 39285/29/13 at 9:40amQuote:
That sucks. I'm surprised that you couldn't just go there and choose the fabrics and have them make something up according to your previous specifications. It's not like they need to retake your measurements and advise you all over again.post #3408 of 39285/29/13 at 9:47amQuote:
Too bad. I am shocked by how booked they have been. I am trying to figure out a way to invest long in red pixels.
Can't you just tell them what you want and ask them to send you swatches or photos of swatches?post #3409 of 39285/29/13 at 1:22pmpost #3410 of 39285/29/13 at 3:50pm
I'm not sure what this proves. This looks just as bad as the pa-fucked NSM shoulders. That other tailors repeat the "feature" doesn't mean it's not an error--in fact, it strongly implies that NSM did not purposefully create a new sort of shoulder line, as some have suggested.Quote:Originally Posted by poorsod
You mean if I asked them to fix something I cannot see but someone on the Internet said I should fix? It seems that Foo brought up 2 issues. First, is the shoulder contour, which on me follows the curves of my trapezius. Nothing I can do unless I change the shape of my trapezius or add padding to the shoulder to straighten the line. Second is the sleeve head. My coats with a camica shoulder look a little Sciamatish. I've been getting my more recent coats with regular shoulder instead.
I'm just "someone on the Internet?" Come on now. I thought we had something special together.
Your trapezius has got nothing to do with it. A natural, unpadded shoulder ought to fall down after your trapezius. There is just no intrinsic reason for the cloth to climb upward on its own. So, you could have the most ridiculously pronounced trapezius (trapezii?) on earth, and yet, it would not explain your jacket's shoulder line curving upward toward your shoulder points. Your own shoulders don't curve upward (if they did, I assume that would reflect a significant medical condition worthy of professional attention). Thus, I'm betting you will find one of two things: (1) open space caused by an armscye cut too large and high, or (2) excess wadding.
You are a doctor, no? Well, I suggest a simply diagnostic. Feel the upturned portion of your NSM jacket shoulders, near the armscye. Better yet, have your spouse do it. Is there a bit of open space over your own shoulders?
. . . . .
Out of curiosity--how many of the NSM-defenders in this thread have ever spotted a significant error missed by your tailor? How many have spotted what you think is an error, but then been told it isn't?post #3411 of 39285/29/13 at 5:13pm
I got my first fitting of a DB suit in the LL mocha linen, and put in an order for a navy pinstripe DB from the Lesser 8/9 oz. (31360). I was initially going to go with a similar fabric from the Minnis Fresco book (0558) but have heard so many good things about the Lesser that I wanted to give it a shot, and besides wanted to make this suit from a slightly more formal cloth. Both are pretty standard in terms of details - 6x2 button stance, peak lapels, trousers with one reverse pleat and cuffs with buttons for suspenders.
Mina and Dino had a pretty comprehensive range of Lesser fabric with them - 8/9 oz., 13 oz., 16 oz., and Golden Bale (maybe some other books as well.)
Edited by tim_horton - 5/29/13 at 6:25pmpost #3412 of 39285/29/13 at 5:53pmpost #3413 of 39285/29/13 at 6:09pmpost #3414 of 39285/29/13 at 8:24pmpost #3415 of 39285/30/13 at 7:20amDid anyone ask about the glue inside? I can't believe I forgot to ask about that. The shoulder stuff really doesn't bother me - I have only seen very few examples (in still photos), don't have it on mine and I am sure they would fix it if I did. But the glue is a real issue. There is no evidence of that in anything they have made for me and it is, quite frankly, very surprsing. I would love to know the explanation. I am sure there is a story of some kind.post #3416 of 39285/30/13 at 7:24ampost #3417 of 39285/30/13 at 8:03am
The pa-fucked shoulder line analysis was based on two presumptions: the upturn was not intentional and a natural shoulder line was the intended shoulder line. Well, the upturn may be intentional and the natural shoulder line may not be the intended shoulder line.
Perhaps, the intended shoulder line was exactly the fusion of both the upturn and the natural line, a "natural pagoda". Earlier on this thread, the natural pagoda shoulder line was, actually, thought to be a house style characteristic and, while there's no word from NSM regarding it as error, we should treat it as that, in my opinion.
Regarding the inconsistency between the jacket's shoulder line saw on this thread. That could be a photography artifact or, as with all tailors, they simply don't use the same shoulder line for all customers and for all jackets.post #3418 of 39285/30/13 at 10:06ampost #3419 of 39285/30/13 at 10:49ampost #3420 of 39285/30/13 at 10:58amQuote:
I remember. I was going to go SB but my last NSM was a a DB suit - my first DB - and it came out so nice I went the same way with this commission. I feel like making all future commissions DB.
- my visit to Napoli & Mina @ Napoli Su Misura
Styleforum Top Picks
- How Should I Start My Business Wardrobe?
- › Engineered Garments FW 14 1 minute ago
- › ٭٭٭ No Man Walks Alone - Official Affiliate Thread ٭٭٭ 1 minute ago
- › Leather Jackets: Post Pictures of the Best You've Seen/Owned? 2 minutes ago
- › Wolverine 1000 Mile Boot Review 3 minutes ago
- › The official thrift/discount store bragging thread 4 minutes ago
- › ***The official Alden thread *** 4 minutes ago
- › HOF: What Are You Wearing Right Now - Part IV (starting May 2014) 5 minutes ago
- › Vanson/Styleforum/Thurston Bros slim fit Japanese double rider MTO 5 minutes ago
- › San Francisco SF Bay Area Styleforum Meetup – Host Khaki’s of... 7 minutes ago
- › CHRISTOPHE LEMAIRE FW2014 8 minutes ago
- › Borsa Long sleeve shirt by techstyles
- › Neil Barrett - LEATHER TROUSERS by newway
- › Mandarina Duck City Messenger by josh89
- › Quoddy True Penny Loafer by ppith
- › Timberland Men's Authentics 3-Eye Classic Lug Boat Shoe by Basil Ecurie
- › Aero Leather Cafe' Racer by CafeRacer99
- › Alden Ravello Shell Long Wing Blucher by ppith
- › Sterlingwear Navigator Peacoat by ppith
- › Campbell Cooper Waxed Cotton Motorcycle Jacket by njhunt
- › J. Crew Rugged Classic Boots by Red Wing by _cameosis_
- › Best Website For The Movies?
- › The Tyre-Kicker's Diary: Watch Boutiques...
- › Choosing Men's Designer Suits
- › San Francisco Shopping Map
- › Styleforum Product Reviewer Questionnaire and...
- › Styleforum Product Reviewer Terms of...
- › Styleforum's Winter Getaway (Start your...
- › Styleforum's Winter Getaway (Extras)
- › Styleforum's Winter Getaway (Jeans &...
- › Styleforum's Winter Getaway (Cardigans)