Recent Images In This Thread
Related Forum Threads
- HOF: What Are You Wearing Right Now - Part IV (starting May 2014) Last post on Today at 6:06 pm in Classic Menswear
- Good Natured Advice Thread (improving a business wardrobe) Last post on Yesterday at 4:42 pm in Classic Menswear
- ISAIA NAPOLI - SUPER HUGE MEGATHREAD - Suits, Sport Coats, Jackets, Pants, Ties, Hangers &... Last post on 11/13/13 at 7:07am in Classic Menswear Classifieds
- PRICE DROP! BNWT -Zegna - Navy Blue. Fully Canvassed. 40R suit - !PRICE DROP! Last post on 10/19/12 at 8:02am in Classic Menswear Classifieds
- Please critique my first suit! Last post on 9/15/11 at 8:36am in Classic Menswear
Deals of the Week: October 5th, 2015
Last edited: 10/6/15
- Where to Buy a Last-Minute Wedding Suit for Under $800Last edited: 4/26/16
- What to Wear to (Almost) Any WeddingLast edited: 4/25/16
- What shade of grey should my wedding suit be?Last edited: 3/24/16
- Where can I buy an affordable suit for my wedding?Last edited: 3/24/16
- Allen Edmonds
- The Armoury
- Batch Mens
- Craftsman Clothing
- David Fin
- Drinkwater's Cambridge
- Equus Leather
- Exquisite Trimmings
- Falcon Garments
- Freemans Sporting Club
- A Fine Pair of Shoes
- H. Stockton
- Gentlemen's Footwear
- The Hanger Project
- H.N. White
- John Elliott
- Kent Wang
- Khaki's of Carmel
- Luxire Custom Clothing
- Meermin Mallorca
- MILER Menswear
- Need Supply Co.
- No Man Walks Alone
- Pierpont Leather
- Portland Dry Goods
- Proper Cloth
- Ring Jacket
- S.E.H Kelly
- Self Edge
- Spier & Mackay
- Standard & Strange
- Suspension Point
- Taylor Stitch
- Uncle Otis
- Vanda Fine Clothing
- Virtual Clotheshorse
- Yellow Hook Necktie
my visit to Napoli & Mina @ Napoli Su Misura - Page 228post #3406 of 41385/29/13 at 9:38ampost #3407 of 41385/29/13 at 9:40amQuote:
That sucks. I'm surprised that you couldn't just go there and choose the fabrics and have them make something up according to your previous specifications. It's not like they need to retake your measurements and advise you all over again.post #3408 of 41385/29/13 at 9:47amQuote:
Too bad. I am shocked by how booked they have been. I am trying to figure out a way to invest long in red pixels.
Can't you just tell them what you want and ask them to send you swatches or photos of swatches?post #3409 of 41385/29/13 at 1:22pmpost #3410 of 41385/29/13 at 3:50pm
I'm not sure what this proves. This looks just as bad as the pa-fucked NSM shoulders. That other tailors repeat the "feature" doesn't mean it's not an error--in fact, it strongly implies that NSM did not purposefully create a new sort of shoulder line, as some have suggested.Quote:Originally Posted by poorsod
You mean if I asked them to fix something I cannot see but someone on the Internet said I should fix? It seems that Foo brought up 2 issues. First, is the shoulder contour, which on me follows the curves of my trapezius. Nothing I can do unless I change the shape of my trapezius or add padding to the shoulder to straighten the line. Second is the sleeve head. My coats with a camica shoulder look a little Sciamatish. I've been getting my more recent coats with regular shoulder instead.
I'm just "someone on the Internet?" Come on now. I thought we had something special together.
Your trapezius has got nothing to do with it. A natural, unpadded shoulder ought to fall down after your trapezius. There is just no intrinsic reason for the cloth to climb upward on its own. So, you could have the most ridiculously pronounced trapezius (trapezii?) on earth, and yet, it would not explain your jacket's shoulder line curving upward toward your shoulder points. Your own shoulders don't curve upward (if they did, I assume that would reflect a significant medical condition worthy of professional attention). Thus, I'm betting you will find one of two things: (1) open space caused by an armscye cut too large and high, or (2) excess wadding.
You are a doctor, no? Well, I suggest a simply diagnostic. Feel the upturned portion of your NSM jacket shoulders, near the armscye. Better yet, have your spouse do it. Is there a bit of open space over your own shoulders?
. . . . .
Out of curiosity--how many of the NSM-defenders in this thread have ever spotted a significant error missed by your tailor? How many have spotted what you think is an error, but then been told it isn't?post #3411 of 41385/29/13 at 5:13pm
I got my first fitting of a DB suit in the LL mocha linen, and put in an order for a navy pinstripe DB from the Lesser 8/9 oz. (31360). I was initially going to go with a similar fabric from the Minnis Fresco book (0558) but have heard so many good things about the Lesser that I wanted to give it a shot, and besides wanted to make this suit from a slightly more formal cloth. Both are pretty standard in terms of details - 6x2 button stance, peak lapels, trousers with one reverse pleat and cuffs with buttons for suspenders.
Mina and Dino had a pretty comprehensive range of Lesser fabric with them - 8/9 oz., 13 oz., 16 oz., and Golden Bale (maybe some other books as well.)
Edited by tim_horton - 5/29/13 at 6:25pmpost #3412 of 41385/29/13 at 5:53pmpost #3413 of 41385/29/13 at 6:09pmpost #3414 of 41385/29/13 at 8:24pmpost #3415 of 41385/30/13 at 7:20amDid anyone ask about the glue inside? I can't believe I forgot to ask about that. The shoulder stuff really doesn't bother me - I have only seen very few examples (in still photos), don't have it on mine and I am sure they would fix it if I did. But the glue is a real issue. There is no evidence of that in anything they have made for me and it is, quite frankly, very surprsing. I would love to know the explanation. I am sure there is a story of some kind.post #3416 of 41385/30/13 at 7:24ampost #3417 of 41385/30/13 at 8:03am
The pa-fucked shoulder line analysis was based on two presumptions: the upturn was not intentional and a natural shoulder line was the intended shoulder line. Well, the upturn may be intentional and the natural shoulder line may not be the intended shoulder line.
Perhaps, the intended shoulder line was exactly the fusion of both the upturn and the natural line, a "natural pagoda". Earlier on this thread, the natural pagoda shoulder line was, actually, thought to be a house style characteristic and, while there's no word from NSM regarding it as error, we should treat it as that, in my opinion.
Regarding the inconsistency between the jacket's shoulder line saw on this thread. That could be a photography artifact or, as with all tailors, they simply don't use the same shoulder line for all customers and for all jackets.post #3418 of 41385/30/13 at 10:06ampost #3419 of 41385/30/13 at 10:49ampost #3420 of 41385/30/13 at 10:58amQuote:
I remember. I was going to go SB but my last NSM was a a DB suit - my first DB - and it came out so nice I went the same way with this commission. I feel like making all future commissions DB.
- Where to Buy a Last-Minute Wedding Suit for Under $800
- › Double Breasted Style. 3 minutes ago
- › <Wanted> Ralph Lauren Shearing jacket or B-3 3 minutes ago
- › ***The Official Rick Owens Thread*** 3 minutes ago
- › Ask A Question, Get An Answer... - Post All Quick Questions Here... 8 minutes ago
- › OFFERING SERVICE OF Bespoke Neapolitan 5-7-12 fold ties 9 minutes ago
- › Rogue Territory: Handmade Denim Goods 12 minutes ago
- › The official thrift/discount store bragging thread - Part II... 12 minutes ago
- › Neckties: A Discussion Thread 13 minutes ago
- › RM Williams Boots - Everything You Wanted to Know 17 minutes ago
- › Saint Laurent Paris - Official Thread. 18 minutes ago
- › Dr. Martens Unisex Original 10 Eye Steel Toe Boot by JC Echeverry
- › Chippewa Men's Super Logger Waterproof Boot by JC Echeverry
- › Mosey Life Working Girl Travel Laptop Tote by sprout2
- › Allen Cox Brief trunks by sprout2
- › Sutor Mantellassi Men's C 567 Oxford by sprout2
- › Alden Burgundy Shell Cordovan Longwing by smfdoc
- › Alden Black Shell Cordovan Plain Toe by smfdoc
- › Florsheim Vincent Wingtip Oxford by smfdoc
- › Allen Edmonds Lasalle Dress Shoes by Lobster33
- › Clark Street Casual Shoes by Lobster33
- › Why Pay Such A Premium For Sunspel Or James...
- › In the Details: Lucian Föhr
- › A Sunday Drive: Styleforum Spring GMTOs
- › Should I dryclean my jeans, and if not, how...
- › The 5 Most-Hyped Handbags of the Moment
- › Eight Vignettes in Search of a (Wedding) Theme
- › The Kent Wang Cufflink Giveaway
- › Where to Buy a Last-Minute Wedding Suit for...
- › What to Wear: The Black Tie Wedding
- › What to Wear: The Casual Summer Wedding