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my visit to Napoli & Mina @ Napoli Su Misura - Page 220

post #3286 of 3933
Quote:
Originally Posted by patrickBOOTH View Post

Frank's neo-shoulder expression he's done for me: Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
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The shoulders are similar to when I ask for non-camica shoulders. The shaping of the lapel and barchetta pocket are a little different.

Frank doesn't like the short back. Did you convince him to give you a short back? Does he give you the extended front dart too?
post #3287 of 3933
Quote:
Originally Posted by CaymanS View Post

Was I the only one who saw "Frank" and thought "Shattuck", only to be thoroughly confused, because those were clearly not Shattuck specimens?

As for Mariano, his shoulders are such that the LH shoulder expression is not ideal for him, to my eye. While it is a recognized/accepted shoulder expression, and Mariano may feel obligated to serve as a billboard for it, he might be better served by the shoulder on Luca's coats, which is quite different:


That must be NSM, look at the pagoda shoulders.
post #3288 of 3933
Quote:
Originally Posted by poorsod View Post

The shoulders are similar to when I ask for non-camica shoulders. The shaping of the lapel and barchetta pocket are a little different.

Frank doesn't like the short back. Did you convince him to give you a short back? Does he give you the extended front dart too?

Not a short back. I didn't ask for it either. He has actually stated that in all of Mina jackets he alters the back is the most inconsistent thing he sees among clients. Some don't have it, some do. This leads be to believe the "short back" is something neapolitans say is intentional, but really isn't.

He said that he could give them extended dart if I wanted it, but he generally uses that for function and not style. Specifically he uses an extended front dart for very rotund guys to pull the the fronts so they don't just hang straight down like a tablecloth.

My intentions weren't to make a "neapolitan" jacket. I realize the other attributes of neapolitan tailoring, but I just like the shoulder expression for lighter weight summer stuff. Also notice I don't get the shoulder seam lapped. I feel like it makes the shoulders look a little less "awkward" to people who are not familiar. The lap being turned toward the eye makes your eye kind of hit it immediately, which brings enough attention to it, then you have the lapped sleeveheads, which is uncommon enough. I wanted to avoid this being these are suits despite neapolitan's favoring lapping on everything including the most conservative business suits.. Frank agrees and said he only likes to lap the shoulder seam on more casual sport coats. I feel like Frank's standard gorge is inline with most neapolitan stuff. He also says he can do a barchetta, but only when he is asked. He said they tend to gape a bit (not sure if they all do and it is just his method) and guys who don't wear squares often are turned off by the slight opening.

Also, Franks lapels have very little belly. On my more recent stuff they have a bit more. I think getting some more belly to the second button, while maintaining a 3roll 2.5 makes the roll look more dramatic and nicer, imo. I also don't get giant lapels like a lot of guy's do who get neapolitan garments. Mine vary from 3.5" to 3.75" depending on my mood when I order.
post #3289 of 3933
Quote:
Originally Posted by archetypal_yuppie View Post

That must be NSM, look at the pagoda shoulders.

The argument isn't on pagoda shoulders though.
post #3290 of 3933
Quote:
Originally Posted by patrickBOOTH View Post

The argument isn't on pagoda shoulders though.

Yeah, I was kidding...
post #3291 of 3933
Quote:
Originally Posted by CaymanS View Post

Was I the only one who saw "Frank" and thought "Shattuck", only to be thoroughly confused, because those were clearly not Shattuck specimens?

As for Mariano, his shoulders are such that the LH shoulder expression is not ideal for him, to my eye. While it is a recognized/accepted shoulder expression, and Mariano may feel obligated to serve as a billboard for it, he might be better served by the shoulder on Luca's coats, which is quite different:
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)


I like this shoulder a lot. It is vastly different than the Mario shoulder that I posted above, which I think looks a lot like NSM, and the Rubi shoulder earlier in this thread, I would think of as natural. Comparison:



post #3292 of 3933
Quote:
Originally Posted by sugarbutch View Post

I'm sure Foo can come up with a suitably clever title which does not contravene the rules.

Maybe Foo can name it "You bought 3 NSMs and I feel terrible about it."
post #3293 of 3933
It's had to tell in this thread anymore...
post #3294 of 3933
Quote:
Originally Posted by mafoofan View Post

Ah, I finally opened up the full resolution photo of PSG on the page prior. Yes, the artifact is highly mitigated. But if you look closely, you can still see evidence of it:

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All my Rubinacci jackets have a semi-circular bit of wadding where I've illustrated on PSG's NSM jacket above. It's very, very hard to feel. If you didn't know to look for it, you would assume there is nothing there. Anyone with an NSM jacket want to see if they can feel it?


What I have apparently struggled to convey is that the jacket I posted lacks the padding/wadding that you are talking about.

It looks to me like PSG's does have something there.
post #3295 of 3933
Quote:
Originally Posted by Leaves View Post

Was fitted in Stockholm by NSM for the first time a few days back. By accident I ran in to several other SF members during this fitting, a very pleasant experience.

I will report back on the progress later on, next fitting should be in a few months (seems NSM visits Stockholm about 3-4 times a year, does that sound right?).

Great to meet you there also! 3-4 times/year is about right!
post #3296 of 3933
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cantabrigian View Post

What I have apparently struggled to convey is that the jacket I posted lacks the padding/wadding that you are talking about.

It looks to me like PSG's does have something there.

No, I understand you're saying your jacket does not have that sort of wadding. You are referring to a rectangular strip layered with the seam allowances, following the circumference of the scye. Correct?

I don't think that bit of reinforcement would cause the upturn. After all, the upturn follows a slope. It is not an abrupt change to a raised, flat surface, as one would expect if your theory is correct.

Anyway, my fundamental point regarding your theory is that it doesn't matter exactly how the shoulder is wadded: the tailor should never add so much wadding as to create an upturn in an otherwise unpadded, natural shoulder.
post #3297 of 3933
is "pa-fucked" in the OED yet?
post #3298 of 3933
Am I the only one who thinks the shoulders on PSG's jacket:
Quote:



Look better than either of these jackets:

Quote:

?
post #3299 of 3933
Uh oh. It's about to get 'acrimionious' again <--- see what I did there
post #3300 of 3933
Quote:
Originally Posted by CaymanS View Post

Uh oh. It's about to get 'acromionious' again <--- see what I did there

FTFY
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