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my visit to Napoli & Mina @ Napoli Su Misura - Page 214

post #3196 of 3944
Similar to Riva cloth? Maybe the Riva contains glue? That's sound logic, no?
post #3197 of 3944
Quote:
Originally Posted by mafoofan View Post



Fools.
No need to exaggerate. The seams will disintegrate. The jacket will simply fall into ragged pieces.

 

Isn't the glue at the borders of the seam allowances? If so, it may not reach the actual seams, even if it seeps into the cloth.

post #3198 of 3944
Quote:
Originally Posted by patrickBOOTH View Post

Similar to Riva cloth? Maybe the Riva contains glue? That's sound logic, no?

That's probably exactly what happened. I let the seepage get out of control.
Quote:
Originally Posted by RDiaz View Post

Isn't the glue at the borders of the seam allowances? If so, it may not reach the actual seams, even if it seeps into the cloth.

Seam seepage is insidious. Since the seam forms a sort of valley between the allowances, any glue will naturally seep toward it.
post #3199 of 3944
Seepage can get us all in a lot of trouble...
post #3200 of 3944
I experienced seepage once. Fortunately, veins stemmed the tide.
post #3201 of 3944
Quote:
Originally Posted by mafoofan View Post

That's probably exactly what happened. I let the seepage get out of control.
Seam seepage is insidious. Since the seam forms a sort of valley between the allowances, any glue will naturally seep toward it.

I heard seam seepage attracts moths, and bedbugs. Buyer beware.
post #3202 of 3944
Quote:
Originally Posted by marcodalondra View Post

Please read through this thread, I cannot remember who, but someone in here talked about Dino convincing him to accept delivery even though the jacket was tight and he took it to his local alteration tailor for letting it out and other examples to that effect.
When I buy bespoke I also expect a lifelong service on the garments. I have taken both jackets and trousers for alteration and other service (eg. Re-stitching a trouser cuff that came loose) for free. I would not take any of my bespoke garments at any local tailor, let the original tailor deal with it.


This is also my recent experience with Formosa... Simply the cutter thinks that the suit fits great but it's too tight in the waist (i told him in first fitting , he said yes yes but i think he was thinking that once the vents opened it would be good but it's far from being sufficiant) i also told them to shorthen sleeve length and they returned exactly same and they are telling me that last time i said sleeves are ok , overall after first fitting they finished the jacket. they didn't change anything.

As a civilized person it's really hard to argue with these uncivilized italian guys... I also had same problem with Panico.. Again it's impossible to communicate with these guys. Dino may be like those guys, i don't know

I had a great experience with Solito, he's very nice and tries to do a proper fitting. He says what he's doing and he's asking if it's ok for me. As i said i am not going to argue with these people, obviously i lost some money as the suits ended up somewhat bad fitting (good quality, bad fit) but i really don't care too much simply i am not returning to these guys but will visit Solito in the future.

post #3203 of 3944
Quote:
Originally Posted by dfoverdx View Post


This is also my recent experience with Formosa... Simply the cutter thinks that the suit fits great but it's too tight in the waist (i told him in first fitting , he said yes yes but i think he was thinking that once the vents opened it would be good but it's far from being sufficiant) i also told them to shorthen sleeve length and they returned exactly same and they are telling me that last time i said sleeves are ok , overall after first fitting they finished the jacket. they didn't change anything.
As a civilized person it's really hard to argue with these uncivilized italian guys... I also had same problem with Panico.. Again it's impossible to communicate with these guys. Dino may be like those guys, i don't know
I had a great experience with Solito, he's very nice and tries to do a proper fitting. He says what he's doing and he's asking if it's ok for me. As i said i am not going to argue with these people, obviously i lost some money as the suits ended up somewhat bad fitting (good quality, bad fit) but i really don't care too much simply i am not returning to these guys but will visit Solito in the future.

Again...I know you're recounting your experience with somebody else and then saying that Dino "may be like those guys, I don't know"...but just to reiterate and emphasize again, neither Dino nor Mina has ever pressured me into accepting something that I didn't feel comfortable in. I've never heard of them saying anything stronger than, "if you are unsure, if you'd like you can take it now and try it out for a while, and then give it back to us if you want something changed."

In any case I can only imagine the distress that mingling with savages might cause a civilized person such as yourself. Although my communicative speech limited to grunts and gnashing of teeth, somehow Dino and I manage to understand each other. I can only imagine that the possibilities expand for those with a more complete vocabulary.
post #3204 of 3944
Quote:
Originally Posted by dfoverdx View Post


This is also my recent experience with Formosa... Simply the cutter thinks that the suit fits great but it's too tight in the waist (i told him in first fitting , he said yes yes but i think he was thinking that once the vents opened it would be good but it's far from being sufficiant) i also told them to shorthen sleeve length and they returned exactly same and they are telling me that last time i said sleeves are ok , overall after first fitting they finished the jacket. they didn't change anything.

As a civilized person it's really hard to argue with these uncivilized italian guys... I also had same problem with Panico.. Again it's impossible to communicate with these guys. Dino may be like those guys, i don't know

I had a great experience with Solito, he's very nice and tries to do a proper fitting. He says what he's doing and he's asking if it's ok for me. As i said i am not going to argue with these people, obviously i lost some money as the suits ended up somewhat bad fitting (good quality, bad fit) but i really don't care too much simply i am not returning to these guys but will visit Solito in the future.

 

Given that you sound like a complete ass, Panico and Formosa must be rejoicing at the news of your decision.
post #3205 of 3944
Quote:
Originally Posted by Eustace Tilley View Post

Given that you sound like a complete ass, Panico and Formosa must be rejoicing at the news of your decision.

lol8[1].giflol8[1].giflol8[1].gifnod[1].gif
post #3206 of 3944

 

Looks like Vox is already getting garments with some modifications, regarding the "pa-fucked" shoulder line. What we're seeing now, in my opinion, is his trapezius in a very unpadded jacket.

post #3207 of 3944
That jacket looks great.
post #3208 of 3944
So does the pasta
post #3209 of 3944
I have to disagree. The pa-fucked shoulders are still there. Vox has made a point of showing us that his Steed jackets are unpadded in the shoulders. Yet, no pa-fuckedness. So, NSM is still doing something wrong.

Also, I'm not sure what you guys admire about the rest of the jacket. No, it is not a monstrosity. But the shaping, particularly around the chest, is ill-defined at best and haphazard at worst. The beauty of good bespoke is the way a jacket or suit can appear thoughtfully sculpted in all dimensions, not just cut to impart a particular two-dimensional silhouette.

In my opinion, Vox's Steed jackets are leagues and leagues superior. The only thing to be said for the NSM stuff is that it is "Neapolitan." But is that a plus in and of itself? Honestly, I would have guessed the jacket in that photo is a nicely fitting RTW or MTM specimen, not bespoke.
post #3210 of 3944
Vox's stuff from Steed, IMO, is completely different than what he gets from NSM. I'm not sure they can be compared as one being better or worse than the other. Yes, his Steed stuff is more sculpted and draped in the chest, but that doesn't mean that any jacket without a sculpted or draped chest is "ill defined at best and haphazard at worst." If you take that view, then most tailors in England and Italy are terrible.

FWIW, regarding the previous critiques, there's no glue in my jacket (my seam allowances look exactly like Unbel's photos), I don't think NSM's shoulders are bad (which, FME, look more like Canta's than the wavier line on Vox), and Dino and Mina have provided me with nothing but excellent service (they're friendly, charming, and always eager to please). That's not to say Foo's critiques are wrong or Carl is mistaken. Just that their critiques don't resonate at all with my experience.
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