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my visit to Napoli & Mina @ Napoli Su Misura - Page 210

post #3136 of 3954
Quote:
Originally Posted by Shirtmaven View Post

i even found some glue holding one in place.

First he outed SG for using polyester, now he's outing NSM for using fusible. Carl, if you keep this up, you're gonna need full-time security detail.
post #3137 of 3954
Quote:
Originally Posted by CaymanS View Post

First he outed SG for using polyester, now he's outing NSM for using fusible. Carl, if you keep this up, you're gonna need full-time security detail.

You must've missed the thread about how using fusible at certain parts of the coat are okay and virtually all tailors do it.

Found the thread.

http://www.styleforum.net/t/344724/tailor-pulling-my-leg
post #3138 of 3954
Quote:
Originally Posted by CaymanS View Post

First he outed SG for using polyester, now he's outing NSM for using fusible. Carl, if you keep this up, you're gonna need full-time security detail.
it was just under the fold of the side seams.
and there was not a lot of it. just a little dab.
i was just surprised when i found it.
post #3139 of 3954
Quote:
Originally Posted by poorsod View Post

You must've missed the thread about how using fusible at certain parts of the coat are okay and virtually all tailors do it.

Found the thread.

http://www.styleforum.net/t/344724/tailor-pulling-my-leg

it wasn't a piece of fusing.... it was a dab of glue.. like from a glue gun!!!!!

something has to keep the huge seam allowance in place

either ED Morel or Alliswell were there at the time
post #3140 of 3954
Ruh-roh.
post #3141 of 3954
Quote:
Originally Posted by Shirtmaven View Post

it wasn't a piece of fusing.... it was a dab of glue.. like from a glue gun!!!!!

something has to keep the huge seam allowance in place

Read the thread. Glue is used at other spots too.
post #3142 of 3954
Quote:
Originally Posted by poorsod View Post

Read the thread. Glue is used at other spots too.

my second job in NYC was in a large clothing factory in Brooklyn. i saw a fusing machine, but i never saw a glue gun or a pot of glue.

I just don't like how those inside seams are finished. another tailor who is not mentioned on this forum, looked at the garment
and could not figure out was going on as well.
and he has been a tailor for over 50 years.
post #3143 of 3954
Quote:
Originally Posted by poorsod View Post

Read the thread. Glue is used at other spots too.

What? I think you are referring to the goo some tailors use in the process of cutting/stitching the buttonhole. I don't think it has anything to do with functional construction.
post #3144 of 3954
I heard they glue on their buttons to give them more stretch and resilience.
post #3145 of 3954
Quote:
Originally Posted by mafoofan View Post

What? I think you are referring to the goo some tailors use in the process of cutting/stitching the buttonhole. I don't think it has anything to do with functional construction.

It was holding a side seam down to the body of the jacket.
why? because there is so much fabric folded in those outlets.
post #3146 of 3954
I thought Carl's views on NSM were already well established... http://www.styleforum.net/t/277870/napoli-su-misura-i-dont-get-it
post #3147 of 3954
Did they at least have the decency to use Neapolitan glue?
post #3148 of 3954
Quote:
Originally Posted by Shirtmaven View Post

my second job in NYC was in a large clothing factory in Brooklyn. i saw a fusing machine, but i never saw a glue gun or a pot of glue.

I just don't like how those inside seams are finished. another tailor who is not mentioned on this forum, looked at the garment
and could not figure out was going on as well.
and he has been a tailor for over 50 years.

What do you think is going on? Did they invent stuff? i assume they use tailors they got from other shops in Naples, rather than train their own. I doubt Mina or Dino are coming up with ideas on how to construct stuff. Seriously . . . I wonder where the techniques are coming from. At some point, JeffreyD will do a dissection of a Solito and we will know some more. I wonder if anyone will donate a LH coat, but really, I would like to see the more obscure Italian makers. Basically, the regional guys no one has heard of. I wonder if there is a riot of tailoring vernaculars waiting to be discovered.
post #3149 of 3954
Quote:
Originally Posted by Eustace Tilley View Post

Meant to post this earlier:

 

I was in London last month and wore my NSM coat while visiting one of the largest SR names for a fitting. The cutter was very impressed, astonished even, by the quality of NSM's construction. He freely admitted that handstitching of that extent and quality was unavailable on Savile Row. Understandbly, while he liked the fit, the styling was not to his taste ("our friends at Andersons would perhaps appreciate it more"). And he nearly keeled over when I told him the price.

 

So for those of you are sitting on the sidelines, don't let concerns on the quality of construction hold you back.

 

Given all the negative stuff posted on NSM lately, I'd like to quote an older post of mine from 18 months ago. Has nothing to do with the shoulder, but perhaps helps put NSM's quality and value proposition in perspective.
post #3150 of 3954
Quote:
Originally Posted by dopey View Post

At some point, JeffreyD will do a dissection of a Solito and we will know some more. I wonder if anyone will donate a LH coat, but really, I would like to see the more obscure Italian makers.

Is it a donation or a loan? (As in I imagine he puts these things back together after he sees what's under the hood.)

I don't really like mine so could pretty easily live without it for a few months if someone knows how to reach him.
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