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my visit to Napoli & Mina @ Napoli Su Misura - Page 209

post #3121 of 3933
Foo -
I looked through earlier posts and didn't see whether this was addressed. I apologize for the redundancy if you have already addressed this. Honest questions: Do you not agree that in Canta's photos below, the NsM looks a lot like the Solito? Do you agree that Solito is a Neapolitan (TM) tailor? Is the difference between the NsM and Solito shoulders, the more angled upturn at the end, the mistake you are identifying?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cantabrigian View Post

Here are three takes on a soft, Naples-y shoulder.

Rubinacci


Solito


Mina



post #3122 of 3933
That's a cool comparison - the end of the Mina shoulder does look a little funky but not obnoxiously so.

Hard to argue with the LH shoulder....
post #3123 of 3933
That is good example. The NSM and Solito seem to be made the same way, except the Solito canvassing at the tip follows the shoulder line better whereas the NSM levels off. To me, the Solito is clearly the best. I actually don't like the way the LH shoulder extension drops, though I have said that before. To my mind, the LH and NSM are pretty much the same in that they draw attention to the artifice. I do think the NSM target is likely the Solito, so in that sense, they have missed the mark, whereas the LH shoulder is doing what LH intended.
post #3124 of 3933
Every time someone comes into my shop wearing an NSM garment, I cringe.
I don't even have to ask them where they got the suit and in one case an overcoat.

I see so much that I do not like.
I am also not a fan of the interior construction.
those weird folded outlets inside. i even found some glue holding one in place.

the very soft canvas is quite nice. but the shoulder really bothers me.

I much prefer either a true natural shoulder for really soft tailoring
or
the very structured garments that I wear from Smalto and Feruch made in paris for my father.

This my opinion.
I am not saying her garments are right or wrong. Her customers have to decide if they really like the fit and look
or if this is just another example of group-think!
post #3125 of 3933
My solitos all look more like the Rubinacci example. My one NSM does look more or less like that one.
post #3126 of 3933
now I will have to check my Solitos. They are primarily summer-weight so I haven't looked in a while.
post #3127 of 3933
Quote:
Originally Posted by unbelragazzo View Post

Foo -
I looked through earlier posts and didn't see whether this was addressed. I apologize for the redundancy if you have already addressed this. Honest questions: Do you not agree that in Canta's photos below, the NsM looks a lot like the Solito? Do you agree that Solito is a Neapolitan (TM) tailor? Is the difference between the NsM and Solito shoulders, the more angled upturn at the end, the mistake you are identifying?

I think the upturn on the NSM is far more acute and distinct than on the Solito--to the point that I'm not sure they are caused by the same thing. In any event, the other Solito jackets I've seen don't have that effect at all. They tend to be very similar to Rubinacci in being fully convex.

Also, the NSM upturn is not always like Cantabrigian's example. In many other cases, like Vox's, it begins far shorter of the scye.
post #3128 of 3933
Ok - but this is the feature that you're identifying, yes?
post #3129 of 3933
Quote:
Originally Posted by unbelragazzo View Post

Ok - but this is the feature that you're identifying, yes?

What, on the NSM? Yes. I cannot say if it is the same thing as what's happening on the Solito. Like I said, that particular Solito is not typical of what I've seen. For it to be a "feature," it would have to be consistent across examples.
post #3130 of 3933
Yeah, that example looks like the way it is supposed to be. The others there is like a divot about a third of the way up the shoulder line.

I've said it before, but I have experienced this in a few different ways:

1. Armhole is too small
2. Back shoulders are too tight
post #3131 of 3933
Just ran across this photo:



This guy runs a place called "La Vera Sartoria Napoletana" so you know it's gotta be legit.
post #3132 of 3933
Put another way, if NSM jackets didn't have a notched or sudden upturn, but were more gently concave through-and-through as C.'s Solito appears, I'd have no problem with it. Whether "Neapolitan" or not doesn't even enter the picture because it's not ugly and is essentially a soft pagoda.
post #3133 of 3933
He might even be wearing a chambray shirt, further adding to his credibility.
post #3134 of 3933
Quote:
Originally Posted by unbelragazzo View Post

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
Just ran across this photo:


This guy runs a place called "La Vera Sartoria Napoletana" so you know it's gotta be legit.

Don't understand--are you arguing against yourself now?

To argue in your favor, that guy is not standing straight-up, which could cause any shoulder do take on that effect. However, if it looks that way normally . . . pa-fucked.
post #3135 of 3933
I'm not really trying to be argumentative about what's right or wrong or Neapolitan or not Neapolitan. Just saw the photo and thought it was relevant to this discussion.
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