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my visit to Napoli & Mina @ Napoli Su Misura - Page 207

post #3091 of 3947
What do you mean by tangible? Like do I have documented proof of it? I don't know about you, but I don't go around demanding to see evidence of someone's employment history. So, in that sense, I have proof of none of it. But I also don't tremendously care that much. If you told me she had been working at JCPenney for the last ten years, it wouldn't really change how I feel about the clothes.

I don't know what you mean by "spin off" in this context. In italiano?

There are limitations relating to the intervening travel times, sure.

I don't know what it is about NsM that makes non-clients so eager to convince clients that they are rubes. For me personally, I make no claim to having any authority on defining "Neapolitan style." That something is faithful to the Neapolitan tradition is an interesting historical footnote to me, but not of primary importance. What I care about more is how the garment looks and feels. In that regard, I'm happy with the things I've gotten from NsM. But then I'm probably just kidding myself to make myself feel better.
post #3092 of 3947
Quote:
Originally Posted by unbelragazzo View Post

That something is faithful to the Neapolitan tradition is an interesting historical footnote to me, but not of primary importance. What I care about more is how the garment looks and feels. In that regard, I'm happy with the things I've gotten from NsM. But then I'm probably just kidding myself to make myself feel better.

This +100
post #3093 of 3947
Quote:
Originally Posted by unbelragazzo View Post


That something is faithful to the Neapolitan tradition is an interesting historical footnote to me, but not of primary importance. What I care about more is how the garment looks and feels. In that regard, I'm happy with the things I've gotten from NsM. But then I'm probably just kidding myself to make myself feel better.

Interesting. Do you feel that way because you believe you lack "local" options that could fit the bill?

Clothing for a long time for me was a way to enhance my travels. I guess like everything else you eventually settle on a few places that you really like and you go back and back again. Historical relevance (pedigree) always mattered to me - probably about as much as fit and feel. My theory was places like Charvet or Rubinacci would be out of business if they didn't produce a quality product and fit - once I was able to verify my theory with clients I was a buyer. Bespoke clothing for me now is almost reflex at this point - I ask for fabric in the winter and early spring - ordered a few garments a year. One day (weight permitting) I'll be satisfied with what I've amassed and I'll move onto something else.
post #3094 of 3947
Quote:
Originally Posted by whnay. View Post

One day (weight permitting) I'll be satisfied with what I've amassed and I'll move onto something else.

If you're a music fan just wait until you get into vintage vinyl...perfection is just as elusive as bespoke clothes...but that's part of the fun.
post #3095 of 3947
Quote:
Originally Posted by unbelragazzo View Post

What do you mean by tangible? Like do I have documented proof of it? I don't know about you, but I don't go around demanding to see evidence of someone's employment history. So, in that sense, I have proof of none of it. But I also don't tremendously care that much. If you told me she had been working at JCPenney for the last ten years, it wouldn't really change how I feel about the clothes.

I don't know what you mean by "spin off" in this context. In italiano?

There are limitations relating to the intervening travel times, sure.

I don't know what it is about NsM that makes non-clients so eager to convince clients that they are rubes. For me personally, I make no claim to having any authority on defining "Neapolitan style." That something is faithful to the Neapolitan tradition is an interesting historical footnote to me, but not of primary importance. What I care about more is how the garment looks and feels. In that regard, I'm happy with the things I've gotten from NsM. But then I'm probably just kidding myself to make myself feel better.

Spin off = let s make our story more appealing... well personal shopper to tailoring house, check. Build in some pedigree, check...

You mentioned that you may know "secrets" about which tailors she has worked with and in what capacity. Before you became so active on this forum I have exchanged many PM with clients that had tried NSM at some point but also then went to Naples, visited other tailors and learned a bit of details ... Heard similar story at first then different versions in Naples...

As I said, you are happy with the service you are paying for, that is great, but when in this post we read comments like the need to understand that they run a business and therefore is normal that they push client to accept some defective garments or that it is ok to take a delivered coat to the local alteration tailor, then I do not think is a great deal. Some evidence to this is that the better garments seems to have been done to clients that visited Naples and had the opportunity to be fitted by their tailor
post #3096 of 3947
Quote:
Originally Posted by Slewfoot View Post

If you're a music fan just wait until you get into vintage vinyl...perfection is just as elusive as bespoke clothes...but that's part of the fun.

And I thought you'd be busy hoarding wines? smile.gif
post #3097 of 3947
Quote:
Originally Posted by marcodalondra View Post


I think part of the problem on this particular issue with the shoulder and other fitting issue reported in this thread, is that in most cases the cutter/master tailor never see the final client in person, and this is the main shortfall of such as a set up

Isn't this also a limitation of Rubinacci when they are traveling? I think it's not a bad idea to make it over to Naples once in a while to get adjustments and such.
post #3098 of 3947
I have never ever been pushed by them to take a defective garment. Sometimes I have been unsure about something and they have given me the option of wearing it for a while first before deciding if I want anything changed. Sometimes I have come back and asked for changes and Mina has always been completely willing to make them.

I've also never been asked to take anything to a local alterations tailor. I have been asked this by Steed - just alteration of a trouser hem, which is a trivial operation. I don't see anything wrong with this practice for such simple operations.
post #3099 of 3947
Nay-

I don't know of anyone in DC who could produce something similar, no. There's one tailor (William Field) whose work I admire, but the house style isn't my favorite, and besides he's more expensive than either NsM or Steed. I do have some trousers from him though.

Your theory is certainly one that has provided you with some gorgeous things. The suit you recently posted in the Rubi thread looked particularly fantastic. I can see the appeal of being a part of the history of a renowned house, it's just not something I really value very highly.

I do value the personal experience of the process, which is one of the reasons I use Mina instead of, say, Chan. The Chan guys are perfectly nice and professional, but I enjoy working with Mina and Dino more, and they have been very generous in showing me around Naples the times that I have visited.
post #3100 of 3947
I have worked with NSM for several years. When I first visited, I looked at what they did but had no need for anything so simply ordered some bespoke Capelli ties. This went on for about a year. Then I tried them for shirts since I was without a shirtmaker. The first shirt I got was beautifully made, but did not fit well. One thing Mina NEVER did was try to encourage me to live with it. She simply remade it over and over again. After repeated frustration, I gave her one of my old shirts and told her it fit well in the area she was having problems, so take it and figure out why this one works and yours does not. She did and I got back a perfectly fitting shirt. She didn't copy the fit of my old one since there were lots of other fit changes, but adapted some of its cut. As a result, I may be the only NSM customer that has pleats on the back, since that is the trick that got it to work for me. And this is no small thing, but getting an Italian to acknowledge that there is anything worthwhile in an English shirt is tough - the English workmanship is so obviously inferior that they find it hard to believe the cutting embodies any skill.
After that I gave Mina some breanish tweed for a sportcoat. That was a bit of a mistake - I had barely enough and the coat was cut a bit skimpy and there was simply not enough to work with. I still have that coat and wear it, but it is a bit close. The second breanish length I had was also short and she didn't even have enough to make a patch breast pocket. But the cut was fine, even if she warned me that there was hardly any inlay. I have also had two suits made. None of them have the shoulder issue Foo points to, but they also have almost no extension and are cut pretty tight to my shoulders. My first one is cut much closer in the chest and body than the other. I told them to make one suit the way they wanted it and then I would decide what I liked and didn't like for my next one. So that is what I did and why they are different.

Regarding that shoulder issue, I have no idea what NSM's explanation would be, but I am pretty sure that if someone said they didn't like it, Mina and Dino would simply have it changed. Now, I say that based only on my experience with them. The business has certainly grown since I have been using them, and it is possible that their attitudes have changed. But I don't think so. Customer service has always been a priority for them.
post #3101 of 3947
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cantabrigian View Post

Napoli Su Misura is a cheesy name. I don't see how anyone can defend it.

We can all agree on this. Does Mina not have a surname?

As for the shoulders: NSM suffers from a comparable problem to Tom Ford (albeit less extreme). The problem is clearly the product of trying make the shoulder as light as possible whilst trying to avoid that droopy effect seen on much of Rubinacci's stuff.
post #3102 of 3947
All of mine are cut pretty tight to the shoulder too, no extension at all.
post #3103 of 3947
Quote:
Originally Posted by unbelragazzo View Post

All is mine are cut pretty tight to the shoulder too, no extension at all.

Really? I think all of mine are extended.
post #3104 of 3947
Please read through this thread, I cannot remember who, but someone in here talked about Dino convincing him to accept delivery even though the jacket was tight and he took it to his local alteration tailor for letting it out and other examples to that effect.
When I buy bespoke I also expect a lifelong service on the garments. I have taken both jackets and trousers for alteration and other service (eg. Re-stitching a trouser cuff that came loose) for free. I would not take any of my bespoke garments at any local tailor, let the original tailor deal with it.
post #3105 of 3947
Yep - shoulder seam is right where by shoulder bone (I guess acromion?) ends.
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