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my visit to Napoli & Mina @ Napoli Su Misura - Page 206

post #3076 of 3960
Quote:
Originally Posted by Grammaton Cleric View Post

Right - that was kinda my point. That the days are continually packed with conf. calls, random meetings / requests, but the nights are when things open up to do actual work (or poast on SF). Though there was always that brain-numbing couple of hours from midnight - 2am, where'd you'd wait around for the copy center guys to finish so you could flip the books. And *sigh* you always had to flip the books.

One time, they printed out little hieroglyphics instead of Calibri. One random lines on random pages. On only some of the books. How the fuck does that happen?
post #3077 of 3960
That photo of MR is too dark for me to see much about the jacket. I've seen the man, I think, four times in real life and I have yet to see him with a collar that hugs the back of his neck, or that even comes close to doing so. And the photos that the dwarf highlighted, seem to also show a body which has changed since the coats were made. Before you feign further indignation, time made that mistake, not the tailor.

Speaking of falling for false choices, you realise (I hope) that my position is that neither LH nor NSM nor Solito made a mistake. The two acronyms merely value different things in terms of shoulder treatment and also have different views regarding extension.

Perhaps others are interested in who's the Neopolitanest (Napolisimo?) but I can't say that I find much point in that endeavour.


Napoli Su Misura is a cheesy name. I don't see how anyone can defend it.
post #3078 of 3960
This conversation would get so much more interesting if someone could ask Ms. Mina her thoughts on the shoulder expressions in question. At this point, this conversation is threading through the same ground... deadhorse-a.gif
post #3079 of 3960
I think we might make some progress if we could run suit+wearer through one of those TSA airport scanners.
post #3080 of 3960
Quote:
Originally Posted by Manton View Post

I think we might make some progress if we could run suit+wearer through one of those TSA airport scanners.

Don't those scanners break if you try to wear a jacket inside of them?
post #3081 of 3960
Quote:
Originally Posted by Manton View Post

I think we might make some progress if we could run suit+wearer through one of those TSA airport scanners.

No better time than now to ask:

http://www.regulations.gov/#!docketBrowser;rpp=25;so=DESC;sb=commentDueDate;po=0;dct=PS;D=TSA-2013-0004
post #3082 of 3960
Quote:
Originally Posted by dopey View Post

Mariano's stuff looks worse and worse to me. I don't like Foulkes's either, but it doesn't look bad. What I hate so much about the Mariano version is that the extension and droop creates a false shoulder both wide of and below the real shoulder line. There is no attempt to conceal that the shoulder line isn't "natural" but rather extended. This is what the better LH examples avoid -on those you have to look hard to tell whether or not the person's shoulders correspond to the coat's shoulders. On MR's, they obviously don't. I have no doubt that is the target he is aiming for since he keeps hitting it, but I just don't get it.

Basically, the less extension and droop they do, the better it ends up looking.

I'm with you. I don't get why an effect that is undesirable (and common) in poorly cut RTW would be appealing in bespoke.

It also seems inconsistent in approach. If you buy into the notion that artifice is necessary to widen the shoulders, why not make it convincing? Or, if you reject the notion that tailoring should conceal faults, why bother with extension at all?
post #3083 of 3960
I'm tired.....

of this thread
post #3084 of 3960
I think this bears repeating.

post #3085 of 3960
Quote:
Originally Posted by unbelragazzo View Post

In the part I quoted, your problem with NSM shoulders was that they weren't Neapolitan, as in, why would anybody want a Neapolitan jacket without a Rubinacci-style shoulder, which is different.
I mean...Mina has spent her entire life living in Naples and most of it working within the Neapolitan clothing industry. She's proud of that heritage and named her company after the city that that fostered it. It's not as if she is going to create a company based in Naples, using Neapolitan tailors, after working there her whole career and call it "London House." Oh wait...
OK, fine...but now that we have established that all the well-known tailors in Naples (many of whom Mina worked with before starting her own company) are producing clothing for people who don't live in, and didn't grow up in, Naples, there's a lot less to argue about.

Un bel do not help spread rumors and legends pease, I can assure you that NSM is virtually unknown to Neapolitan bespoke clients. It is a business born to offer the service of assisting foreign client to buy "su Misura " in Naples, if you go to Naples you can access directly the master tailors, no need of such a service, as you get better service and prices going without intermediary.

If you read back on this and other forums when NSM first appeared not long ago, as well her original website, you will find info on the fact Mina was a shopping assistant/stylist advisor in some boutiques, so I do no see the same as growing up in the clothing industry... I think they originally had "personal shopper" in the description of their business. There is a lot of PR spin to this....

I think part of the problem on this particular issue with the shoulder and other fitting issue reported in this thread, is that in most cases the cutter/master tailor never see the final client in person, and this is the main shortfall of such as a set up
post #3086 of 3960
Quote:
Originally Posted by DocHolliday View Post


I'm with you. I don't get why an effect that is undesirable (and common) in poorly cut RTW would be appealing in bespoke.

It also seems inconsistent in approach. If you buy into the notion that artifice is necessary to widen the shoulders, why not make it convincing? Or, if you reject the notion that tailoring should conceal faults, why bother with extension at all?

To me, the droop kind of creates a more "relaxed" look, much less imposing than strong padded shoulders. Not something I would want for a business suit, but for casual sportcoats maybe... isn't a relaxed look one of the goals of Neapolitan tailoring? Or at least it looks like Mariano does want to look relaxed.

 

I do like slight padding to avoid the droopiness, but unless I am mistaken, I think I can understand what Rubinacci wants to achieve with his shoulders...

post #3087 of 3960
Quote:
Originally Posted by JubeiSpiegel View Post

This conversation would get so much more interesting if someone could ask Ms. Mina her thoughts on the shoulder expressions in question. At this point, this conversation is threading through the same ground... deadhorse-a.gif

+ 100 bigstar[1].gif
post #3088 of 3960
Quote:
Originally Posted by marcodalondra View Post

Un bel do not help spread rumors and legends pease, I can assure you that NSM is virtually unknown to Neapolitan bespoke clients. It is a business born to offer the service of assisting foreign client to buy "su Misura " in Naples, if you go to Naples you can access directly the master tailors, no need of such a service, as you get better service and prices going without intermediary.

If you read back on this and other forums when NSM first appeared not long ago, as well her original website, you will find info on the fact Mina was a shopping assistant/stylist advisor in some boutiques, so I do no see the same as growing up in the clothing industry... I think they originally had "personal shopper" in the description of their business. There is a lot of PR spin to this....

I think part of the problem on this particular issue with the shoulder and other fitting issue reported in this thread, is that in most cases the cutter/master tailor never see the final client in person, and this is the main shortfall of such as a set up

smile.gif
post #3089 of 3960
Marco - read my post again. I never say that NsM has Neapolitan bespoke clients. I said that nobody right now is making much money selling to Neapolitans, and that NsM has Italian clients.

My understanding is that Mina's earlier role was more involved than how "personal shopper" is used in English. I don't know how much of what I know about her career and who she has worked with is supposed to be public, so I don't want to say too much.

There are Savile Row houses also where the cutter never speaks to the client. This is not unique to NsM.
post #3090 of 3960
Quote:
Originally Posted by unbelragazzo View Post

Marco - read my post again. I never say that NsM has Neapolitan bespoke clients. I said that nobody right now is making much money selling to Neapolitans, and that NsM has Italian clients.

My understanding is that Mina's earlier role was more involved than how "personal shopper" is used in English. I don't know how much of what I know about her career and who she has worked with is supposed to be public, so I don't want to say too much.

There are Savile Row houses also where the cutter never speaks to the client. This is not unique to NsM.
Most master tailors, the ones that apprentershipped and grow up in the famous sartorias of Schiraldi, Blasi, etc, most of whom know each others having grow up together in those environment, still have most of their clientele being Neapolitan based, and even with probably more accessible pricing, still make the bulk of their money from it.

On what you have been told about Mina background, how much is tangible? If is not public peraphs is a bit of a spinn off?

For what it is, NSM offer an affordable service bringing a Neapolitan made garments to foreign clients, with fundamental compromises, that if understood and accepted , are fine for the price, but do not kid yourself and others about creating stories of top tailors being employed, being fitted by anything other then a self made stylist, or anything else that make you feel better about using their service. Reading this thread you see many comments of garments with defect being sent back and forth , and some time delivered still with defects to see how the client feels wearing it...with a top tailor, with direct access, this will not happen, at least in Naples.
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