Recent Images In This Thread
Related Forum Threads
- HOF: What Are You Wearing Right Now - Part IV (starting May 2014) Last post on Today at 1:05 pm in Classic Menswear
- Good Natured Advice Thread (improving a business wardrobe) Last post on Today at 12:19 pm in Classic Menswear
- ISAIA NAPOLI - SUPER HUGE MEGATHREAD - Suits, Sport Coats, Jackets, Pants, Ties, Hangers &... Last post on 11/13/13 at 7:07am in Classic Menswear Classifieds
- PRICE DROP! BNWT -Zegna - Navy Blue. Fully Canvassed. 40R suit - !PRICE DROP! Last post on 10/19/12 at 8:02am in Classic Menswear Classifieds
- Please critique my first suit! Last post on 9/15/11 at 8:36am in Classic Menswear
Deals of the Week: October 5th, 2015
Last edited: 10/6/15
- Where to Buy a Last-Minute Wedding Suit for Under $800Last edited: 4/26/16
- What to Wear to (Almost) Any WeddingLast edited: 4/25/16
- What shade of grey should my wedding suit be?Last edited: 3/24/16
- Where can I buy an affordable suit for my wedding?Last edited: 3/24/16
- Allen Edmonds
- The Armoury
- Batch Mens
- Craftsman Clothing
- David Fin
- Drinkwater's Cambridge
- Equus Leather
- Exquisite Trimmings
- Falcon Garments
- Freemans Sporting Club
- A Fine Pair of Shoes
- H. Stockton
- Gentlemen's Footwear
- The Hanger Project
- Henry Blake
- H.N. White
- House of Kydos
- John Elliott
- Kent Wang
- Khaki's of Carmel
- Luxire Custom Clothing
- Meermin Mallorca
- MILER Menswear
- Need Supply Co.
- No Man Walks Alone
- Pierpont Leather
- Portland Dry Goods
- Proper Cloth
- Ring Jacket
- S.E.H Kelly
- Self Edge
- Spier & Mackay
- Standard & Strange
- Suspension Point
- Taylor Stitch
- Uncle Otis
- Vanda Fine Clothing
- Virtual Clotheshorse
- Yellow Hook Necktie
- Your MadeInItaly
my visit to Napoli & Mina @ Napoli Su Misura - Page 194post #2896 of 41553/15/13 at 1:16pmpost #2897 of 41553/15/13 at 1:51pmpost #2898 of 41553/15/13 at 1:54pmpost #2899 of 41553/15/13 at 2:09pmpost #2900 of 41553/15/13 at 4:28pmQuote:
This is another (and incidentally less accurate) way of describing what i tried to explain above.
The padding / wadding that makes the sleeve fall properly, on NSM, starts only a millimetre or so in from the seam. Around there is where the acromion begins. The slope of the shoulder levels out after the deltoid and the inverts slightly at the acromion. Extending the sleevehead padding ever so slightly smooths that transition. NSM does not extend the padding that way.
The other thing that contributes to the NSM shoulder is - and this is just a guess - that they use pre-formed padding right at the sleevehead and this takes more time to settle than softer wadding.
So this effect on the shoulder is the result of a deliberate lack of extra material until right before the sleevehead. I think I prefer the Rubinacci / Solito / everyone but NSM approach, at least in most instances.
By being the unpadded-est* their coats have - necessarily I'd add - this effect at the shoulder. I don't think a slight increase in lightness over London House / Solito / everybody else in Naples is particularly important. But it is a difference and not a simple oversight.
*Though I think this discussion would be easier if we banished mention of 'unpadded' (1) because its simply not true in the case of any tailored garment and (2) because it has become, to some extent, shorthand for quality. Given 2, people are cagey about admitting the existence of any padding whatsoever and that just jumbles things further.post #2901 of 41553/15/13 at 7:18pmpost #2902 of 41553/16/13 at 10:13amQuote:The bump at the end of the shoulder and into the sleevehead is partially due to how the seam allowance is folded / stitched or at least that's my guess since the slope increases exactly where the seam allowance starts.
I think a tailor should chime in on the nomenclature of this 'fetuccia' thingy (and where exactly it is positioned when it comes to construction). Unfortunately I forgot the infortmation I had as it was explained to me by a tailor from Naples, but I can say with certainty that it is not a defect by any means (within the realm of traditional bespoke, at least in Italy). You find it on many coats of the different Italian provenances and the visibility depends usually on the fabric. In some cases it is also very visible despite thicker fabrics, there are some very prominent examples of Liverano tweed coats on the Armoury blog (I have it on bespoke from various provenances, though it is mostly invisible, no matter how hard or soft the garment is constructed).
edit: this has obviously nothing to do with the 'shoulder' and in particular absolutely nothing whether it is a manica a camicia with whatever padding/wadding added to the actual shoulder or a pagoda resp. spalla insellata (nomenclature!!! there is no such thing as 'spalla camicia').
Edited by Cravate_Noire - 3/16/13 at 4:12pmpost #2903 of 41553/16/13 at 2:40pmpost #2904 of 41553/16/13 at 2:55pmpost #2905 of 41553/16/13 at 3:00pmpost #2906 of 41553/16/13 at 3:54pm
Do you need to be a tailor to use your eyes or power to reason? All I know is that it looks ugly to me, and I have never heard of such a thing as a half-natural, half-pagoda shoulder. The explanations so far are unconvincing--not because they defy my "expertise," but because they don't make sense to me as a reasonably intelligent person.post #2907 of 41553/16/13 at 3:59pmpost #2908 of 41553/16/13 at 5:06pmQuote:Originally Posted by mafoofan
Do you need to be a tailor to use your eyes or reasoning? All I know is that it looks ugly to me, and I have never heard of such a thing as a half-natural, half-pagoda shoulder. The explanations so far are unconvincing--not because they defy my "expertise," but because they don't make sense.
All those Neapolitan coats are crap anyway, they have fucked up seams on shoulders, back, outer sleeves, sidebodies...Totally fucked up man, the bloody seams are not even plain there!
Now are you telling me that it's a technique, maybe even one particular for certain provenances, to rather lap certain seams than to get them plain (propper nomenclature for different seam treatments)? But you'd be right. I think the example is not even too far fetched, a freak e.g. might be totally put off to see pick stitched lapped seams when he's used to totally plain, undecorative tailoring. Now you should get the point which should not even touch discussing a potential deviations of a technique, but avoiding to make a deviation (in this case a negative one) from a technique per se. The opposite happened (kind of) with buttonholes, the mere technique of finishing 'Milanese buttonholes' (or shiny buttonholes as they are mostly called in Italy) was stylised as absolutely superior finishing and idicative of overall superior quality - although it has so much provenance in it that it's considered hideous by many who are just used to different tecniques.
Interestingly, it is the most authentic and traditional tailors themselves who do these things to the most extreme extent...German tailor saying I look like a clown in some of that Italian stuff, northern Italian tailor saying that they can easily go on with their shirts in Naples while he would do actual coats for actual men, tailor in Naples breaking down seeing a jacket with regular darts/sidebodies, english tailor being proud for perfectly plain and fitted back which makes one almost immovable.
Anyway, a great deal of that technique stuff is merely criticisable, at the very least if you do not know what it actually is, so expertise is not that bad.
This does not change anything about the thing going on in the actual shoulder though (which is a different thing than what I am referring to as I pointed out in my edit of my last comment!).
I will level out my lapped seams now, that is safe as this will happen near SR.
That said, I must add, and I do so with great satisfaction, that this is rich coming from someone who turned bubbles on a coat's back into drape by a few red circles .post #2909 of 41553/16/13 at 7:15pmJust to be clear, wadding = shoulder pad, right?
My NSM jacket has zero padding, wadding, or whatever, but avoids the Pa-fucked profile. Do the Pa-fucked jackets have any padding at all?
I'm getting another jacket from NSM shortly, I will carefully screen for the Pa-fucked profile and question Mina extensively.
Finally, to revisit an earlier tangent, I was wearing virtually the same outfit I posted earlier in this thread and after chatting up a flight attendant on the Delta Connection from RDU, got invited over to her place in Howard Beach for "hottubbing." I didn't go, so I can't say what the actual parameters were (maybe she was trying to drug me and steal a kidney?), but she was young, relatively hot, and said she liked my shoes.
I maintain that chicks dig well-dressed men in high-waisted pants (and the long ball)post #2910 of 41553/17/13 at 4:21amQuote:
Will you also get a competent English shirtmaker to straighten out your Neapolitan shirt shoulders and remove the abundant pleating?
- Where to Buy a Last-Minute Wedding Suit for Under $800
Currently, there are 1205 Active Users (257 Members and 948 Guests)
- › Classic Menswear Lounge 10 seconds ago
- › ***The Official Rick Owens Thread*** 2 minutes ago
- › Australian Members - Part II - if you read the first post, you'll... 5 minutes ago
- › HOF: What Are You Wearing Right Now - Part IV (starting May 2014) 6 minutes ago
- › John Elliott - official affiliate thread 7 minutes ago
- › 5th Annual Thrift Thread Gift Exchange Unveiling 8 minutes ago
- › The Official Alden Thread for 2016 - Share reviews, sizing, advice,... 9 minutes ago
- › Official Sales Alert thread 11 minutes ago
- › Linjer Leather Goods -- official affiliate thread 12 minutes ago
- › Scent/Fragrance of the Day thread 19 minutes ago
- › Alden #907 Straight Tip Bal Calfskin by smfdoc
- › Allen Edmonds Leeds 2.0 Derby Men's Shoes Size US 10 D Walnut... by Lobster33
- › Dr. Martens Unisex Original 10 Eye Steel Toe Boot by JC Echeverry
- › Chippewa Men's Super Logger Waterproof Boot by JC Echeverry
- › Mosey Life Working Girl Travel Laptop Tote by sprout2
- › Allen Cox Brief trunks by sprout2
- › Sutor Mantellassi Men's C 567 Oxford by sprout2
- › Alden Burgundy Shell Cordovan Longwing by smfdoc
- › Alden Black Shell Cordovan Plain Toe by smfdoc
- › Florsheim Vincent Wingtip Oxford by smfdoc
- › Fashion Forward brands that will be big in
- › Five Menswear Trends for Fall
- › Don’t “Just Buy a New One”,...
- › Why Pay Such A Premium For Sunspel Or James...
- › In the Details: Lucian Föhr
- › A Sunday Drive: Styleforum Spring GMTOs
- › Should I dryclean my jeans, and if not, how...
- › The 5 Most-Hyped Handbags of the Moment
- › Eight Vignettes in Search of a (Wedding) Theme
- › The Kent Wang Cufflink Giveaway