my visit to Napoli & Mina @ Napoli Su Misura - Page 192

The NSM has a straighter shoulder line.

They're both very nice. I like the Rubi slightly more drapey chest, better rolled lapel, and I think they did a little bit better job taking into account the dropped right shoulder. I don't mind the length on the NsM at all. I do slightly prefer the NsM shoulder line. But they're quite similar jackets and, as I said, both very nice. And it's worth remembering that the Rubi is almost 3x as expensive.

Oh yeah, cost is definitely a factor. I have my nits to pick with the NSM one, but the Rubi isn't 300% better, that's for sure.

But it ups your forum cred 300%

300%, maybe not, but it is better.

..

But without a Rubinacci you can't tell other people that you have a Rubinacci... can't put a price tag on that. With a Rubinacci, in addition to a terrific suit, you buy the feeling of superiority. 
 

Nobody in the real world will care nor notice the infinitesimal superiority of a 6.000€ garment over a 2.000€ garment 99,9% of the time.

 

Everything after a certain price point you are just doing for your inner vain demon. Nothing wrong with that. You admit to your own vanity the minute you click register on this site.

Or, you could be willing to pay a premium for consistency and time-proven execution. Whatever NSM's other strengths and weaknesses, it is a new business. A big part of my choice to go with Rubinacci was that I wanted a house that had been around a while and I could be confident would be around in the future. Not of all us think of clothes piece by piece. If you understand that bespoke is about relationships more than individual products, you might see more appeal in paying for established firms. In fact, I think that is simply the right way to approach bespoke.

Along the same lines, there is a much clearer picture of what Rubinacci produces than what NSM produces. This is not a knock against NSM, just an acknowledgement that as a new operation using tailors whose work is not as prolific or well-known, it is much harder to know what you will get. That is, unless you subscribe to the (wrong-headed) school that you can simply instruct your tailor to give you exactly what you want--as if tailors can be so instructed and as if you know how to so instruct. Case in point, Coolpapa's NSM jacket here looks a lot different (better, in my opinion) than most other examples of NSM posted. Why the difference? Did Coolpapa ask for it that way? Did NSM use different tailors at the time? Were they still developing their house style? So many variables.

Finally, how a piece of bespoke clothing feels to the wearer is infinitely more important than whether others can tell who made it. That is truly what you are paying for--or at least should be.

Interesting. This couldn't be further from my own experience at various points in the price spectrum.

I started a whole thread on "feel" a while back and it's important. When I've posted pics of NSM v. Solito on me, the SF consensus was that NSM was better. (I chalk this up largely to the tighter waist.) However, Solito *feels* infinitely better to me, which is one reason why I prefer it.

Exactly.

Agree re: comfort
 

Not intentionally though it's wound up being a one-off at least for now.

The one jacket I have from them is good, not great. Mariano did an okay job of fitting - just okay. I was underwhelmed, especially when considering the price.

Now that I can get to the London shop every day if I wanted or Napoli every month if I wanted, I suppose I could try again. Maybe I will but I'm having a lot of fun trying a few others - not to mention getting something better (in terms of fit, not construction) and paying less.

Here's a not especially useful photo of my solitary 'Nacci

How long were you in Naples for, and how many fittings did you get for this?

A bit hard to tell the fit with the shoulders not showing and the coat unbuttoned, but I do really like that cloth, Canta.