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my visit to Napoli & Mina @ Napoli Su Misura - Page 191

post #2851 of 3944
To come back to pagoda shoulders for a moment, if it's 'true' there's no convexity/(concavity if you want)..? That was quite the particular and deciding feature about it I thought (and that's what I was told by various tailors in Italy, Germany and UK (and the latter two always saying this style should be left to the Italians, although they did it right the last time in ca.1978 according to one biggrin.gif...)).
The curvature is even semantically included in the naming of that shoulder treatment (pagoda, insellata) if I am not mistaken, (except in German where the term I always heard to describe was just a reference to some of the technical requirements to construct it ).

I have this picture of the back of mine (which is so-so to show what I mean), but I don't find picture of the front (this is not super traditional btw. as the Neapolitan dandy would wear it extremely tight, much tighter than non-insellata shoulders, to help emphasize the curvature effect, but that's quite uncomfortable. However, the, greater shoulder width makes it also more difficult to achieve that effect).

CREATOR: gd-jpeg v1.0 (using IJG JPEG v62), quality = 75
post #2852 of 3944
Too me that is too extreme. It reminds me of the power suits women would wear in the 80's.
post #2853 of 3944
Cravate Noire - I think that shoulder looks fantastic. Who is the tailor?
post #2854 of 3944

Speaking of all this high-waisted business, I am having a bear of a time finding (quality) briefs that aren't cut to sit just barely over the hips. This is so unpleasant if your pants are 3 inches higher. Any suggested brands to look at?
 

post #2855 of 3944
Quote:
Originally Posted by patrickBOOTH View Post

Too me that is too extreme. It reminds me of the power suits women would wear in the 80's.

That is what it is about: eccentricity (it is obviously a very contoversial style/contrusction feature)... I will try to find historic pictures of how it was worn originally by the 'persone particolare' in Italy in the 30s and 40s (and then you have the UK revival in the 70s again of course, but these pictures are well known).

I wore this suit 3 times btw. and even don't have it with me where I live now. I think of redoing something with a more 'traditional' Italian, (tight) pagoda shoulder.
Edited by Cravate_Noire - 3/8/13 at 2:47pm
post #2856 of 3944
A bit late to the game but as - as far as I know - the only one who has gotten down with both Mariano and Mina...

The deltoid bump is less pronounced on a 'Nacci because they use more padding (i know, i know - it's not padding; it's wadding!!!1!!)


The bump at the end of the shoulder and into the sleevehead is partially due to how the seam allowance is folded / stitched or at least that's my guess since the slope increases exactly where the seam allowance starts.

My pet theory is that the slope will decrease with time. All NSMs Ive seen are newish (aside from Ed's and his don't have this as much) and haven't had time to settle. Also, Mina's not so gentle tugging on the sleeves seems aimed at bringing down the bump at the end (cue awkward pun).

If people haven't moved on, I'm happy to post some potentially illustrative photos later.
post #2857 of 3944
We will never move on, so please post your illustrations. I didn't know you used Rubinacci, was it a one off thing?
post #2858 of 3944
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cantabrigian View Post

A bit late to the game but as - as far as I know - the only one who has gotten down with both Mariano and Mina...

Coolpapa beat you to the NSM vs Rubi comparison by almost exactly 2 years.

http://www.styleforum.net/t/228473/a-comparison-of-bespoke-jackets-rubinacci-nsm-manuel-martinez/0_30
post #2859 of 3944
It's funny, if they weren't labeled, I'm not sure i could guess which is which in coolpapa's case
Quote:
Originally Posted by coolpapa View Post

IMG_0964.jpg

IMG_0962.jpg
post #2860 of 3944
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cantabrigian View Post

It's funny, if they weren't labeled, I'm not sure i could guess which is which in coolpapa's case

Waiting for explanations with lots of red lines!
post #2861 of 3944
I think that NSM jacket, the one on the bottom, is an outlier relative to the others I have. It was my first, and it's my favorite.
post #2862 of 3944
I prefer the Rubinacci for its length and the line of the lapels. The NsM, as with many of their SBs, has a more aggressive "V" shape. Don't know if it's literally the width of the lapels, the height of the notches, the shape of the belly, the location of the waist button, or the alignment of the pattern of the cloth, but Rubinacci appears to be more discreet and relaxed.
post #2863 of 3944

They do like a hard 3 roll 2 and a higher waist button. IMO it unfortunately winds up looking more flat than three dimensional this way.
 

post #2864 of 3944
The Rubi looks excellent there.
post #2865 of 3944
Quote:
Originally Posted by patrickBOOTH View Post

The Rubi looks excellent there.

Yeah it does. The NSM is a bit too short, and the shaping is a little less elegant. Interesting that CoolPapa like it better than his other NSM, as I feel like I've seen other, better jackets from them in this thread.

Of course, this is nitpicking and I'd be happy to wear either of those jackets, so I suppose I should just stop talking.
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