or Connect
Styleforum › Forums › Men's Style › Classic Menswear › my visit to Napoli & Mina @ Napoli Su Misura
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:

my visit to Napoli & Mina @ Napoli Su Misura - Page 179

post #2671 of 3933
My NSM definitely looks like what you have identified. I am just saying that there are other causes that can give a similar effect. My bone thingy is one of them.
post #2672 of 3933

In Manton's case, I guess it's the combination of no padding +  acromion protruding that's causing the bump, i.e., the bump has "flesh and bone" below it. With my jacket (which is heavily padded, for the record) there is just empty space and the concavity is caused by the canvas and padding twisting.

post #2673 of 3933
Quote:
Originally Posted by Manton View Post

Rdiaz' coat does not look like mine. And, to be clear, I notice this more on my Shattuck coats than on any others. It's literally like a bump in an otherwise smooth road.

What I notice on the NSM is that, despite being unpadded, the shoulder edge/sleevehead "sticks out" a bit whereas the Solitos fall. There is a slightly squarish effect to NSM and a more rounded effect to Solito.
Interesting. I haven't worn any of my Solito's in a while so I can't compare, but my NSM coat today is cut very close to the shoulder head and does not square off. It follows the shoulder down past the end of the bone - then opens up with a full sleevehead.
To be clear, I can get the bump like RDiaz has if I try (though it is slight and fleeting). But I do not have an upward slope at the end. I have a downward slope.
I have three others, so I should look to see what they do.
post #2674 of 3933
Quote:
Originally Posted by Manton View Post

My NSM definitely looks like what you have identified. I am just saying that there are other causes that can give a similar effect. My bone thingy is one of them.

Are you wearing NSM today? Try pinching the jacket shoulder an inch or so short of the sleevehead. If there is empty space above your shoulder, it ain't your acromion causing the problem.
post #2675 of 3933
Quote:
Originally Posted by dopey View Post

To be clear, I can get the bump like RDiaz has if I try (though it is slight and fleeting). But I do not have an upward slope at the end. I have a downward slope.

If so, your NSM jackets don't have the problem I am seeing elsewhere. It is exactly that "upward slope" that I see as a mistake, not just any "bump" or rise in the shoulder line.
post #2676 of 3933
No, I wore it yesterday and didn't pay close attention to this.
post #2677 of 3933

btw, on unbelragazzo's jacket the problem doesn't seem to be very pronunced either, if at all.

post #2678 of 3933
Quote:
Originally Posted by mafoofan View Post

If so, your NSM jackets don't have the problem I am seeing elsewhere. It is exactly that "upward slope" that I see as a mistake, not just any "bump" or rise in the shoulder line.
Would you just pm me the ones beside rdiaz that you are talking about - this thread is too hard to search through now? In his case it looks like the top corners should just be clipped off. What I think is happening, but just an very uninformed guess, is that they padded the drop to the sleevehead to square it off rather than let it drop, and it is perhaps overdone. Off my body, I can feel some extra thickness in mine (about an inch from the shoulder edge) - I think it is to support the sleevehead attachment rather than to hold up the shoulder line (or in my case, reduce the angle of drop), but I can't be sure.
In any case, I love the shoulder line on this suit (mine). It is cut a bit close in the body, though, so I had my next suit made with more ease. I will check the shoulder line on that, too, but it is a real summer suit so I won't get to it for a while.
post #2679 of 3933
Quote:
Originally Posted by RDiaz View Post

btw, on unbelragazzo's jacket the problem doesn't seem to be very pronunced either, if at all.
Yes.
post #2680 of 3933
Quote:
Originally Posted by dopey View Post

Interesting. I haven't worn any of my Solito's in a while so I can't compare, but my NSM coat today is cut very close to the shoulder head and does not square off. It follows the shoulder down past the end of the bone - then opens up with a full sleevehead.
To be clear, I can get the bump like RDiaz has if I try (though it is slight and fleeting). But I do not have an upward slope at the end. I have a downward slope.
I have three others, so I should look to see what they do.

Sure. See you in the shadow forum.
post #2681 of 3933
Quote:
Originally Posted by dopey View Post

Yes.

It's still there, but less pronounced.
post #2682 of 3933
Quote:
Originally Posted by mafoofan View Post

It's still there, but less pronounced.
I don't think so, but it depends on how square his shoulders naturally are. If that were me, I would say they have a little buildup, but mine really drop off. In his case, I think all you are seeing is what happens when the midline bulge ends and the main line is restored (like in Vox's case)
post #2683 of 3933
Quote:
Originally Posted by dopey View Post


Would you just pm me the ones beside rdiaz that you are talking about - this thread is too hard to search through now? In his case it looks like the top corners should just be clipped off. What I think is happening, but just an very uninformed guess, is that they padded the drop to the sleevehead to square it off rather than let it drop, and it is perhaps overdone. Off my body, I can feel some extra thickness in mine (about an inch from the shoulder edge) - I think it is to support the sleevehead attachment rather than to hold up the shoulder line (or in my case, reduce the angle of drop), but I can't be sure.

I believe reducing the amount of padding would help a lot with the shoulder concavity; in fact my tailor's gonna try it for the next commission (adding some extension, too), and if it works, will fix this one as well. It's just MTM anyways, so there are limitations in what can be done.

 

With NSM I'm not sure what causes this shoulder shape, really, since there's little to no padding. Either it's really intentional, the customer's shoulder shape, or just a problem with the shoulder seam not following the shoulder line?

post #2684 of 3933
I am going to get some pents from NSM on their next trip.
post #2685 of 3933
Quote:
Originally Posted by dopey View Post

Would you just pm me the ones beside rdiaz that you are talking about - this thread is too hard to search through now? In his case it looks like the top corners should just be clipped off. What I think is happening, but just an very uninformed guess, is that they padded the drop to the sleevehead to square it off rather than let it drop, and it is perhaps overdone. Off my body, I can feel some extra thickness in mine (about an inch from the shoulder edge) - I think it is to support the sleevehead attachment rather than to hold up the shoulder line (or in my case, reduce the angle of drop), but I can't be sure.
In any case, I love the shoulder line on this suit (mine). It is cut a bit close in the body, though, so I had my next suit made with more ease. I will check the shoulder line on that, too, but it is a real summer suit so I won't get to it for a while.

I could be wrong, but I don't think that NsM made RDiaz's jacket. I believe that it is rtw, and he was simply using it to illustrate his point.

Aaron
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:
  Return Home
  Back to Forum: Classic Menswear
Styleforum › Forums › Men's Style › Classic Menswear › my visit to Napoli & Mina @ Napoli Su Misura