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my visit to Napoli & Mina @ Napoli Su Misura - Page 168

post #2506 of 3961
I knew I had written something similar before...just now remembered where:

http://www.styleforum.net/t/310166/mc-general-chat/165#post_5679375
post #2507 of 3961
Quote:
Originally Posted by Manton View Post


Pants are pretty close to perfect. Coat is wearable but could be improved.

That sums up my NSM as well.
post #2508 of 3961
Quote:
Originally Posted by unbelragazzo View Post

On the shoulder thing, since there's not very much structure inside the jacket, how it looks on you is going to depend on your shoulder shape and how you're standing at the time.

But it varies from coat to coat on the same person. That is what I find frustrating. I really like the pagoda shoulder and would prefer it on all my NSM jackets. Unfortunately, some have it and some don't. And that isn't the result of any request that I've made. It is just the way things shook out.
post #2509 of 3961
Quote:
Originally Posted by agjiffy View Post

But it varies from coat to coat on the same person. That is what I find frustrating. I really like the pagoda shoulder and would prefer it on all my NSM jackets. Unfortunately, some have it and some don't. And that isn't the result of any request that I've made. It is just the way things shook out.

I have variance from coat to coat as well - but for me the changes are mostly in the tightness of the body rather than the shoulders. I'm sure some of this is due to gaining a few pounds over time, a different mood on different fitting days, etc., but I would guess some of it also has to do with different tailors cutting my jackets. I've never asked, but I doubt the same person cut all my jackets.
post #2510 of 3961
Quote:
Originally Posted by unbelragazzo View Post

I have variance from coat to coat as well - but for me the changes are mostly in the tightness of the body rather than the shoulders. I'm sure some of this is due to gaining a few pounds over time, a different mood on different fitting days, etc., but I would guess some of it also has to do with different tailors cutting my jackets. I've never asked, but I doubt the same person cut all my jackets.

Yes, that is my assumption as well. Different tailors with different results. In any event, it is frustrating enough that I'm going to try someone new for jackets.
post #2511 of 3961
Have you asked Mina about it specifically? If you say, I want it to look like these ones, not like these ones, and ask for the person that made the ones you like, you might get something more consistent. I don't have enough experience with different tailoring houses to know how the consistency of NsM compares to others, but certainly all the larger houses employ multiple cutters.
post #2512 of 3961
Quote:
Originally Posted by unbelragazzo View Post

I have variance from coat to coat as well - but for me the changes are mostly in the tightness of the body rather than the shoulders. I'm sure some of this is due to gaining a few pounds over time, a different mood on different fitting days, etc., but I would guess some of it also has to do with different tailors cutting my jackets. I've never asked, but I doubt the same person cut all my jackets.
It is possible to ask for the same tailor for consistency sake?

Mariano went out of his way to ensure me that the guy cutting my coat today has been the guy cutting it since day one and I cannot argue with the results. I made the mistake of pushing ahead with an order even though my guy was away on holiday leave. The suit is wearable but my least favorite.
post #2513 of 3961
NsM has grown extremely fast, so it might be impossible to have everyone stick with the same guy, but you could at least ask and I'm sure they'd try to do it.
post #2514 of 3961
Quote:
Originally Posted by unbelragazzo View Post

Have you asked Mina about it specifically? If you say, I want it to look like these ones, not like these ones, and ask for the person that made the ones you like, you might get something more consistent. I don't have enough experience with different tailoring houses to know how the consistency of NsM compares to others, but certainly all the larger houses employ multiple cutters.

I've asked about the cause (response was "different fabric") but I haven't expressed any desire for anything different. The tailoring houses that I've used have a greater degree of consistency on the whole. The same people should be doing the same things each time. The shoulder is an example but I could point out a series of other variances in the NSM product (none of which are good/bad on their own - just different).
post #2515 of 3961
The different fabric is definitely a possibility. Not necessarily that it would be impossible to get a final effect in one fabric that's similar to another, but Mina will have different fabrics cut differently to accommodate the degree to which they stretch, wrinkle, or whatever.
post #2516 of 3961
Quote:
Originally Posted by whnay. View Post

It is possible to ask for the same tailor for consistency sake?

Mariano went out of his way to ensure me that the guy cutting my coat today has been the guy cutting it since day one and I cannot argue with the results. I made the mistake of pushing ahead with an order even though my guy was away on holiday leave. The suit is wearable but my least favorite.
She's changed providers several times over the last two years, which accounts for the inconsistencies as well as some of the differences in styling details. My first jacket, made by Volpe, was great, subsequent commissions have been variable. The pants however, are uniformly excellent.
post #2517 of 3961
Quote:
Originally Posted by coolpapa View Post


She's changed providers several times over the last two years, which accounts for the inconsistencies as well as some of the differences in styling details. My first jacket, made by Volpe, was great, subsequent commissions have been variable. The pants however, are uniformly excellent.

 

She hasn't used Volpe since 2009 - everything has been in-house since then. My coats have been inconsistent as well, but uniformly good, so I've never had cause to complain. The trousers are always top-notch.
post #2518 of 3961
The trousers are most probably outsourced as there is no way that they will have enough volumes to have an employed trousermaker.
post #2519 of 3961
Quote:
Originally Posted by marcodalondra View Post

The trousers are most probably outsourced as there is no way that they will have enough volumes to have an employed trousermaker.

Do you know this to be the case? I've heard Mina refer to her trousermakers a number of times. As well as mentioning considering moving them to her new location along with some of the jacket makers. I'm pretty sure they are done in house.
post #2520 of 3961
^ The trousermakers are in-house as well, and she explictly mentioned how they had to move to a new location outside the city given space constraints.
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