or Connect
Styleforum › Forums › Men's Style › Classic Menswear › my visit to Napoli & Mina @ Napoli Su Misura
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:

my visit to Napoli & Mina @ Napoli Su Misura - Page 166

post #2476 of 3954
Quote:
Originally Posted by mafoofan View Post

The cut is often too lean and tight.
That is very easily fixed by the client, should he be tasteful enough to express the need. Which is not necessarily as fun as walking into A&S, Huntsman, or Rubinacci and having a pretty good idea of what they'll make you wear. But there is still some room to maneuver with NsM, and the lower price may justify some of the effort.
post #2477 of 3954
Quote:
Originally Posted by Concordia View Post

That is very easily fixed by the client, should he be tasteful enough to express the need. Which is not necessarily as fun as walking into A&S, Huntsman, or Rubinacci and having a pretty good idea of what they'll make you wear. But there is still some room to maneuver with NsM, and the lower price may justify some of the effort.

Is it?

I ask this both generally and in relation to NSM. I would never feel confident asking a tailor to execute in a style of my choosing. And honestly, I have yet to see third party evidence that I am wrong in that. The best stuff I've seen from any given tailor is in the style you'd expect of them. Divergences tend to be . . . not so good.

Yes, I know, many tailors claim they can do whatever suits your taste. But I don't believe them.
post #2478 of 3954
Quote:
Originally Posted by mafoofan View Post

The cut is often too lean and tight. So, even when the fit is dead on, the style is not.

I haven't seen either of those things (and I'm not sure how those statements jibe with your earlier statement about inconsistency). But I don't use them for suits. Trousers, shirts and an occasional odd jacket.
post #2479 of 3954
You can't bargain for a huge difference in style, but if you want a bit more length in the jacket and a not-too-skin-tight chest, Mina is very anxious to please. Obviously, you're never going to get a good copy of J. Press-- she's selling Neapolitan tailoring and won't go that far out of the comfort zone. But apparently, she did choose her particular workmen in part because they could remember and execute (and care about) requests from foreigners that might not be completely standard Neapolitan teenager stuff.
post #2480 of 3954
What I like about Solito is that the stuff looks "neapolitan" without any exagerration and quite drapey. Very understated and old fashioned, not to say "old", but in fact there is a pleasing "old man" element to it.
post #2481 of 3954
IMO NSM DBs are the best coat they make. I have 2 and 2 more OTW. I wouldn't mind going the "medwards option" whole hog. I'm kinda headed that way.
post #2482 of 3954
Quote:
Originally Posted by Manton View Post

What I like about Solito is that the stuff looks "neapolitan" without any exagerration and quite drapey. Very understated and old fashioned, not to say "old", but in fact there is a pleasing "old man" element to it.
You won't see that in what they finally delivered to me. But the pics on line are often very nice. Another website with nice style is that of Panico. Obviously Neapolitan, but quite reserved.
post #2483 of 3954
Quote:
Originally Posted by poorsod View Post

IMO NSM DBs are the best coat they make. I have 2 and 2 more OTW. I wouldn't mind going the "medwards option" whole hog. I'm kinda headed that way.
I too am a DB fan, though not ready to go full medwards yet.
post #2484 of 3954
Quote:
Originally Posted by poorsod View Post

IMO NSM DBs are the best coat they make. I have 2 and 2 more OTW. I wouldn't mind going the "medwards option" whole hog. I'm kinda headed that way.
Doesn't surprise me. Many of the little quirks that sometimes overwhelm their SB jackets (to me, anyway) would be nearly impossible to transfer to DB style.
post #2485 of 3954
Quote:
Originally Posted by Concordia View Post

Doesn't surprise me. Many of the little quirks that sometimes overwhelm their SB jackets (to me, anyway) would be nearly impossible to transfer to DB style.

Can you expand on this thought?
post #2486 of 3954
some of the A&S expats (and some say A&S itself) cut a great DB but can't cut a decent SB to save their lives.

In fact, I would say that all the A&S offshoots have DB down pat but SB is very problematic for a lot of them ...
post #2487 of 3954

^ Manton: could it be that you are the only satisfied American customer of Solito? I don't ask that Q in jest - apart from myself, I know of 2 other people (not of this forum) who have ordered from him, and both have been annoyed by the process and frustrated by the end product.

post #2488 of 3954
Who could not be frustrated with the process??

But I am happy with the end product, I have 8 and I love them all. The DB was a little funky at first but he fixed it. As for the others, the trouble I have had were short left sleeves (always the left and only on some coats) but all of those have also been rectified.
post #2489 of 3954
Quote:
Originally Posted by Manton View Post

Who could not be frustrated with the process??
 

 

smile.gif

 

I noticed in a recent interview you cited Solito as your 'go-to' tailor for the foreseeable future. Curious how you intend to place future orders - are you also transitioning to a no-fittings model like whnay / Foo?

 

Foo: my coats from Mina are quite a bit more relaxed than her default model. She's relatively flexible.

post #2490 of 3954
Matt, I'm unclear what you dislike about the shoulder line. It has a sloped and swooping effect, vaguely pagoda like, though not really. Chris Despos has pointed out that the shoulder line can sometimes be a bit bumpy. That I see, both on examples posted here and on my own jacket. I'm not a tailoring expert, so I can't say what might be the cause for that. I agree the line would be better without it. But what is it about the NSM shoulder line you dislike, if not that?

Mina's default, from my experience, is something a bit leaner and shorter than what I and some other members here would prefer, but she accommodates and is flexible within reason. I actually appreciate her push back on things, but she's taken things back and adjusted them for me to the way I like them. I think it's a nice balance of providing a service, but also being accommodating to clients' preferences.
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:
  Return Home
  Back to Forum: Classic Menswear
Styleforum › Forums › Men's Style › Classic Menswear › my visit to Napoli & Mina @ Napoli Su Misura