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my visit to Napoli & Mina @ Napoli Su Misura - Page 165

post #2461 of 3960
Quote:
Originally Posted by Despos View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by Cantabrigian View Post

What's with the wavy shoulder line though? Is that just from the lineny wrinkles?

this is on all NSM jackets, take a closer look. You only have to back as far as Med tech's DB, same shoulder.
Originally Posted by Victor Elfo View Post

He does not post here anymore, but this should be shared with everyone that has interest on NSM. 

 

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Vox's coats may also have the wavy shoulder line, but they look significantly better than the wavier examples we've seen in this thread. I think these shoulders look great on him.

post #2462 of 3960
Whatever happened with the fucked up suit?

If something takes more than two fittings, there is probably a really big problem.
post #2463 of 3960
I think that guy was trolling. I have a hard time believing that suit was for real.
post #2464 of 3960
Quote:
Originally Posted by onepiece22 View Post

I think that guy was trolling. I have a hard time believing that suit was for real.

I suspect the same. I actually wanted to do the same. Pic some crappy suit and tell everyone that its an [insert big name] bespoke and watch the hate come in. devil.gif
post #2465 of 3960
Ok, whatever is going on, let's be clear: "Napoli Su Misura" is not "big name" bespoke. Only in internet la la land. Actually, only in SF la la land.
post #2466 of 3960
Quote:
Originally Posted by Victor Elfo View Post

He does not post here anymore, but this should be shared with everyone that has interest on NSM. 
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)



Vox' NSM trousers, shirt and OJ in Carlo Barbera for H. Lesser 13oz jacketing with Alden blucher.




Vox's NSM trousers, shirt and OJ in Carlo Barbera for H. Lesser jacketing in 13oz, Crockett & Jones loafers in reverse calf.




Vox's NSM suit in T&L Golden Bale 13oz sharkskin (not sure on the cloth, though).

Many more can be found here: http://www.voxsartoria.com .

Really? I'm very unimpressed. The shoulder line is really inelegant. It appears to trumpet out at the sleevehead. Seen this on a lot of NSM.

I've seen some decent NSM and some bad. It seems very inconsistent to me.
post #2467 of 3960
Quote:
Originally Posted by mafoofan View Post

Really? I'm very unimpressed. The shoulder line is really inelegant.
That's just because Vox is really ugly. There's only so much a tailor can do.

Actually, I rather like that suit. It's much less egregiously "modern Neapolitan" than many that have been pictured. And while the second sport coat is pretty relaxed, I think that isn't a bad thing for that application.
post #2468 of 3960
Quote:
Originally Posted by Concordia View Post

That's just because Vox is really ugly. There's only so much a tailor can do.

Actually, I rather like that suit. It's much less egregiously "modern Neapolitan" than many that have been pictured.

I don't know what you call that shoulder line, but it is bad.

Still, you touch on something I wholly agree with: most of what is loved in this thread really shouldn't be. I'm not sure how much is the result of NSM's natural leanings versus client preference, but I wouldn't be surprised if it is a bit of both. After all, the company caters specifically to foreigners who want "Neapolitan" style.
post #2469 of 3960
Quote:
Originally Posted by mafoofan View Post

Really? I'm very unimpressed. The shoulder line is really inelegant. It appears to trumpet out at the sleevehead. Seen this on a lot of NSM.

I've seen some decent NSM and some bad. It seems very inconsistent to me.

NSM is definitely inconsistent. I think part of it has to do with the style and part of it has to do with NSM.
post #2470 of 3960
Quote:
Originally Posted by agjiffy View Post

NSM is definitely inconsistent. I think part of it has to do with the style and part of it has to do with NSM.

Well, people who buy it tend to get what they are looking for. Just saying.

There is nothing about it that I associate with the tailoring from Naples I consider admirable.
post #2471 of 3960
That last pic of Vox, is it a shoulder similar to this one?: http://tuttofattoamano.blogspot.dk/2009/09/another-suit-completed.html
post #2472 of 3960
Quote:
Originally Posted by mafoofan View Post

Well, people who buy it tend to get what they are looking for. Just saying.

There is nothing about it that I associate with the tailoring from Naples I consider admirable.

I wouldn't go that far. There is plenty that is admirable about it. The shirts and pants are incredibly high quality and don't suffer from any inconsistency. I think everything associated with Naples tailoring is a little trendy and hyped up right now, but I think NSM is doing a pretty good job of capitalizing on that, and they offer value for the money.
post #2473 of 3960
Quote:
Originally Posted by agjiffy View Post

The shirts and pants are incredibly high quality and don't suffer from any inconsistency.
I'm beginning to become a firm believer in that. Prices are very good, also, especially for the trousers. If only they had linen/cotton shirtings as fine and numerous as the high-grade cotton poplins...

As far as jackets go, there may be ways of playing to their strengths and minimizing the idiosyncrasies that don't travel well. Choice of cloth, for one thing. I will say that while the one jacket they made for me isn't going to be a prototype for the rest of my wardrobe, it is uncommonly comfortable and offers fantastic mobility. A&S shoulders/armscyes taken to a delightful extreme. We'll see how Jacket 2.0 comes out. A Hartwist tweed or LL linen could be quite fascinating.
post #2474 of 3960
I haven't really seen the shirts and I admittedly pay little attention to the pants. It's the jacket that is most responsible for the look of any suit, after all. The shirred sleeveheads are usually too exaggerated. The cut is often too lean and tight. So, even when the fit is dead on, the style is not.
post #2475 of 3960
Quote:
Originally Posted by Concordia View Post


As far as jackets go, there may be ways of playing to their strengths and minimizing the idiosyncrasies that don't travel well. Choice of cloth, for one thing.

I agree with this. When you have jackets with minimal padding, canvassing and lining, small differences in fabric can lead to enormous differences in the final product.
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