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my visit to Napoli & Mina @ Napoli Su Misura - Page 163

post #2431 of 3926
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lovelace View Post


No tailor likes to be directed, its an insult in a way.

 

I do have to direct my tailor, but I will only tell him what I want to achieve in terms of silhouette, i.e. if I want extended natural shoulders, less waist suppression, wider lapels, etc. That's just because he likes a strong, imposing, very Spanish silhouette, and I prefer a more relaxed look. But all I've done with him so far is MTM, although it's the tailor himself who makes the changes to te block pattern, then sents them to a workshop in Spain.

post #2432 of 3926
Quote:
Originally Posted by RDiaz View Post

I do have to direct my tailor, but I will only tell him what I want to achieve in terms of silhouette, i.e. if I want extended natural shoulders, less waist suppression, wider lapels, etc.

This level of direction is completely fine. Some tailors will resent even that, but for most that I have met, these kind of suggestions are welcome and encouraged as a part of the discussion.
post #2433 of 3926
Quote:
Originally Posted by unbelragazzo View Post


Some tailors will resent even that

Mine does - for my latest commission, shoulders are going to come fully padded from the workshop (they only make them that way, it's MTM after all), then he said he's gonna take the sleeves off and re-make the shoulders with softer and thinner padding, with a fitting included in the process. But it took sooooo much discussion to get to that point that I'm still skeptical he's going to do it. I understand it's MTM and I should be happy with the cut in the first place or otherwise skip it, but he was reluctant to make soft shoulders even if the jacket was bespoke, plus it's the man himself who modifies the patterns. When some tailors are used to a particular silhouette, it's so hard to make them change their mind...

post #2434 of 3926
When you're asking for a completely different style of jacket, I can understand that. You can see Mina saying the same things about not wanting to make a padded jacket in my recent interview with her. But even if they are unwilling or reluctant to do it, they will likely not take offense to it. They'll just wonder why you want them to make a jacket so different from their house style.
post #2435 of 3926

Well, I wasn't really asking for a jacket that different - I just prefer the look of sloping, slightly convex shoulders rather than square and concave. For me, that's some extension, and padding - but softer, and less of it. Not a radical difference, yet he was quite reluctant. I didn't ask for a Liverano-style unpadded, dropped shoulder, which is radically different and, I have to say, offensively ugly to him. 

 

I think they should be more open to customer preferences, really. It's not that hard to discern who is asking for a different, yet still sensible style, from the complete n00b who has read something on the Internet and wants to get an ultimate iGent suit made even if it's not flattering at all.

post #2436 of 3926
In general I think it's less to do with them not wanting to make something that is unflattering to the client and more to do with 1) their tastes in general and (more importantly) 2) their own expertise 3) the additional cost of doing a different cut.
post #2437 of 3926
^^ This is true, you should not use NSM if you don't genereally like what they make. Mina does tend to impose her point of view and you have to insist on some things to get what you want(longer and fuller coat). My first batch of garments came out pretty nice, I would still like to get a slighly longer coat and fuller blades (in the back) for more comfort. That said, they are running a business, not UN. My fresco suit was tight in the back and needed to be let out in the waist but Dino talked me into taking it and wearing it to see how it would wear. I ended up using a local tailor to let it out in the waist and it was fine. So they will, at times, try to expedite the process and finish your garment as soon as possible but you can't blame them for this. Hauling all this crap back and forth is not easy.
post #2438 of 3926
Quote:
Originally Posted by unbelragazzo View Post

In general I think it's less to do with them not wanting to make something that is unflattering to the client and more to do with 1) their tastes in general and (more importantly) 2) their own expertise 3) the additional cost of doing a different cut.


+1 bigstar[1].gif
post #2439 of 3926
Quote:
Originally Posted by unbelragazzo View Post

In general I think it's less to do with them not wanting to make something that is unflattering to the client and more to do with 1) their tastes in general and (more importantly) 2) their own expertise 3) the additional cost of doing a different cut.

1) and 2) I agree with, but why should a different cut cost any more (talking about bespoke)?

post #2440 of 3926
Quote:
Originally Posted by RDiaz View Post

1) and 2) I agree with, but why should a different cut cost any more (talking about bespoke)?

For the same reason that bespoke is more expensive than RTW or MTM.
post #2441 of 3926

I don't get it. Isn't the pattern made from scratch? Why would making it slightly different to their house style add cost?

 

I guess it all depends on how much you want to change their style, but I don't see how things like an extended and softer shoulder, or a slightly fuller, longer coat would add to the cost (besides a little extra fabric for that extra room)?

post #2442 of 3926
It is made from scratch, but a musician makes all of his songs from scratch too. It would take him more time and effort to create a song in the style of another musician.
post #2443 of 3926

Alright, I understand. But let's say the tailor knows perfectly how to make what the customer asks for, and wouldn't really take more effort - it just would not be to the tailor's taste. Shouldn't he listen to the customer in a less reluctant way? I feel really frustrated when my tailor tells me that a shoulder "MUST be concave to look good".

 

Keep in mind I'm talking about making minor style modifications, not things like telling a tailor who usually does a lean cut to do a full drape cut. That is nuts in most cases and wouldn't even cross my mind.


Edited by RDiaz - 2/23/13 at 6:21am
post #2444 of 3926
Quote:
Originally Posted by RDiaz View Post

Shouldn't he listen to the customer in a less reluctant way? I feel really frustrated when my tailor tells me that a shoulder "MUST be concave to look good".

Sure but 1) don't be so sure that he actually knows perfectly how to do what you're asking and isn't just using his stated preference as an excuse 2) he wants to make stuff that he likes, even if you're going to be the one to wear it.

Anyway, this is now far afield from the topic of the thread - Mina specifically is I think significantly more open-minded than others, and has become more so in the year and a half or so that I've worked with her. I'd like to continue discussion about how accommodating tailors in general and your tailor in particular should be in another thread.

Stay tuned for the interview I did with Liverano, his approach is that you should put yourself in his hands and just let him work.
post #2445 of 3926

Yes, I've seen a lot of variety on Mina's work, and I think that's a good thing.

 

Looking forward to that interview, and enough thread derailing for today smile.gif

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