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my visit to Napoli & Mina @ Napoli Su Misura - Page 157

post #2341 of 3361
2/3/13 at 10:43am
I have several suits made out of the original Tonik, not Tonik 2000. and I remember it being 60/40 wool/mohair. It was also a 3 ply fabric. 2000 is 2 ply as I recall.

Harrison have a book of Mohairs, some with a shot effect which is achieved by using two contrasting colours for the warp and weft. similar to a pick and pick. Where they differ is that a pick and pick is a twill weave which gives it the characteristic ladder effect, a shot mohair is typically a plain weave. Minnis also have a couple of shot mohairs at the back of their Fresco II book (0557, 0558). as well as plain mohairs.

I do not consider the original Tonik a summer cloth, to heavy in my opinion. I consider it more a dressy cloth for evening. Very crisp and sharp when tailored.
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post #2342 of 3361
2/3/13 at 11:10am
Yes, the collar is gorgeous. You are free to use that photo and illustrate the type of collar you'd like if it helps.

Yes, the shirt is from NSM. The fit, objectively speaking, could be better. More pointedly, the arms (biceps area down) were just way too loose (and bear in mind I generally wear conservatively, which means, I'm not asking for skin/slim tight. Body was on the loose side and could have been taken in as well. Shirt wasn't resting on my shoulders but it might be because it needs an iron.

However, they did say wash it to see if it shrinks. So, I can get a remedy if it doesn't. I think these issues can be dealt with relatively easily, I hope. With a travelling tailor, it takes time to get the fit right, but their positive attitude is laudable.
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post #2343 of 3361
2/3/13 at 11:12am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lovelace View Post

I have several suits made out of the original Tonik, not Tonik 2000. and I remember it being 60/40 wool/mohair. It was also a 3 ply fabric. 2000 is 2 ply as I recall.

Harrison have a book of Mohairs, some with a shot effect which is achieved by using two contrasting colours for the warp and weft. similar to a pick and pick. Where they differ is that a pick and pick is a twill weave which gives it the characteristic ladder effect, a shot mohair is typically a plain weave. Minnis also have a couple of shot mohairs at the back of their Fresco II book (0557, 0558). as well as plain mohairs.

I do not consider the original Tonik a summer cloth, to heavy in my opinion. I consider it more a dressy cloth for evening. Very crisp and sharp when tailored.

Thanks Lovelace, that was inreresting, especially regarding the Harrisons. Do you mean the Cape Kid? The cloth in that book is quite light, however.

You're quite right the original Tonik is not a Summer cloth. It's so heavy. Would you regard the original Tonik as dinner-suit material? Or it's far too casual?
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post #2344 of 3361
2/3/13 at 11:28am
Quote:
Originally Posted by bboysdontcryy View Post

Thanks Lovelace, that was inreresting, especially regarding the Harrisons. Do you mean the Cape Kid? The cloth in that book is quite light, however.

You're quite right the original Tonik is not a Summer cloth. It's so heavy. Would you regard the original Tonik as dinner-suit material? Or it's far too casual?

The Harrison's book I'm referring to is Evolution. 61451 & 61453 are the shot mohairs. If you click on the picture to enlarge you can clearly see the contrasting yarns in the warp and weft.

Would I consider the Original Tonik dinner suit material?

Mohair is perfectly acceptable material for a DJ. If you look at that book I mentioned above you'll see a mohair Barathea there. That's DJ material.

Original Tonik is a stiff material, so it depends how you have your DJ cut. If you prefer a slouchier cut for your DJ then a lightweight kid mohair may be better choice for you.

Talk it through with your tailor.

I do not consider Mohair a casual material, too dressy in my opinion. Others may disagree.of course.
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post #2345 of 3361
2/9/13 at 10:02am
I have a couple of shirts in the works with NSM but waiting for dates for their next San Francisco visit.
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post #2346 of 3361
2/9/13 at 10:13am
Quote:
Originally Posted by bboysdontcryy View Post

Collected this from NSM today. I like the collar. Looks nice. Fit was okay, however. Hope that washing the shirt will help shrink it a little because the sleeves and body seem a little huge.

Have her this picture of Matuozzo's collar --

http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b328/mafoofan/mfanblog/matuozzoshirt/shirt4.jpg Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)




 

 

are the collar buttons two different sizes? looks like a great shirt. now put it on and post fit pics!

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post #2347 of 3361
2/10/13 at 12:37pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by aravenel View Post

That collar looks fantastic...

+ 100

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post #2348 of 3361
2/14/13 at 8:33am

Are there any favorite/obvious cloth books that NSM doesn't carry?

I'm not thinking anything too obscure, but I haven't really dug through their options, either.

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post #2349 of 3361
2/14/13 at 8:48am
I have to source Lesser and Smith's. They carry Harrison's, Holland and Sherry, Dormeuil, Minnis
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post #2350 of 3361
2/14/13 at 8:53am

Hmm, I would have expected those. No Lesser? I could have sworn I saw some last time. I'll PM you.
 

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post #2351 of 3361
2/14/13 at 8:57am
Quote:
Originally Posted by poorsod View Post

I have to source Lesser and Smith's. They carry Harrison's, Holland and Sherry, Dormeuil, Minnis

Quote:
Originally Posted by sprout2 View Post

Hmm, I would have expected those. No Lesser? I could have sworn I saw some last time. I'll PM you.

 

Since Harrison's now owns Lesser's it is odd that the distributor Mina uses would have one line and not the other. If it is so, it is likely to be only temporary. It may also be that the books have been combined.
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post #2352 of 3361
2/14/13 at 9:05am
I'm pretty sure the books have been kept separate. I bet they just haven't gotten the updated set yet--or maybe you have to specifically request the Lesser books.
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post #2353 of 3361
2/14/13 at 9:09am
I heard a rumor that Barbera still owns the distribution rights to Lesser in Italy. Now it is owned by Kiton. I don't know if it is true. You should ask NSM.
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post #2354 of 3361
2/20/13 at 6:23pm
I will soon have my third fitting. Im not entirely happy with the fit. Obviously the sleeves are way too short. Also not really happy with the flow in the midsection. Same goes for the thigh area, or the shelf in the back. The trousers are a bit too wide over the waist, which means that they fall down all the time so that there is too much break.

Would really appreciate your views and comments on other changes I should request. Thanks.




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post #2355 of 3361
2/20/13 at 6:29pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by martinsth View Post

I will soon have my third fitting. Im not entirely happy with the fit. Obviously the sleeves are way too short. Also not really happy with the flow in the midsection. Same goes for the thigh area, or the shelf in the back. The trousers are a bit too wide over the waist, which means that they fall down all the time so that there is too much break.

Would really appreciate your views and comments on other changes I should request. Thanks.
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)




The back needs some serious help. A bit surprising.
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