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my visit to Napoli & Mina @ Napoli Su Misura - Page 156

post #2326 of 3928
The Tonik (from what I've seen) doesn't have the bright new shine like in the Cape Kid, and looks like very good stuff.

I've no idea, however, whether it's the content of Mohair that influences how shiny the cloth looks.
post #2327 of 3928
The old Tonik that I remember was indeed 90% mohair, very stiff and shiny. It was beautiful in its way but I don't think I would have liked the way it wore. Also, it had a very summery look but was way too heavy to wear in summer.
post #2328 of 3928
Quote:
Originally Posted by johanm View Post

Michael Alden (who also champions Lesser and Smith Woollens, like Manton) often talks about "spring" - the tension in the cloth resulting from tight "high twist" yarns. Basically you can do the "thumb test" (roll the swatch between thumb and index finger, see if it rolls smoothly or collapses) or the "crumple test" (crumple swatch into ball, release, see how fast it bounces back). I've found the tests to be very useful for identifying cloth that minimally wrinkles and keeps its shape after many wearings, and they have led me to Lesser/Smith/Harrisions, with H&S/Scabal/Dormeuil not performing as well. YMMV.

I've always regarded these as tests for body or guts, irrespective of hand, which I associate with finish. I've also found Lesser cloth to have the most guts across their product line of any merchant. Lesser doesn't go beyond 150's and, in the main, its cloth is made of yarn less than 100's. So it stands to reason that its finish of its cloth is not usually as smooth or slick as cloth from other merchants who focus on the supers. Having said that, Lessers Golden Bale and 150's are "wetter" but still have a lot of body.
post #2329 of 3928
The second from the left is my Tonik mohair. It doesn't look that shiny to me.
Quote:
Originally Posted by poorsod View Post

263

From Right to Left,

Navy SB Lesser Tropical 8/9
Gray DB Lesser Flannel 13 oz, 30648
Dark blue sharkskin SB Smith's Botany 13 oz, 3816
Gray SB Lesser GB 11 oz, 30166
Blue SB Dormeiul Tonik 90% Mohair - 10% Wool, around 10 oz
Gunclub check SB Carlo Barbera for Lesser 8/9 oz.
post #2330 of 3928
Quote:
Originally Posted by Manton View Post

The old Tonik that I remember was indeed 90% mohair, very stiff and shiny. It was beautiful in its way but I don't think I would have liked the way it wore. Also, it had a very summery look but was way too heavy to wear in summer.

I have several pieces of the old Tonik and the shininess varies from piece to piece. One of them id dark gray and has a matte finish. Another is a gray-silver glen plaid and it looks and feels like armor. Go figure.
post #2331 of 3928
Quote:
Originally Posted by poorsod View Post

The second from the left is my Tonik mohair. It doesn't look that shiny to me.

This surpises me for two reasons. I didn't think that Dormeuil made 90% mohair Tonik any more and the examples of that cloth that I have seen weighed much more rthan 10 ozs. Is this something you purchased recently? Do you know if Dormeuil still sells it?
post #2332 of 3928
I got it 2-3 years ago. It should still be available. Check the book.
post #2333 of 3928
Quote:
Originally Posted by poorsod View Post

I got it 2-3 years ago. It should still be available. Check the book.

I just checked the Dormeuil site and lo and behold they apparently still offer 90% mohair Tonik in black and navy and both weigh 300 gms. How do you like the cloth?
post #2334 of 3928
The richness of the multi-tone blue Tonik is unmatched. It is similar to the Minnis 0520 but has a richer color. There are more shades in the book than listed on the site. You need to look at the book in real life. I think mine is the 191004. It is tough scratchy cloth.

This is ethandesu's version of the same cloth as mine (I believe) . . .


Edited by poorsod - 1/17/13 at 8:54pm
post #2335 of 3928
Quote:
Originally Posted by poorsod View Post

The richness of the multi-tone blue Tonik is unmatched. It is similar to the Minnis 0520 but has a richer color. There are more shades in the book than listed on the site. You need to look at the book in real life. I think mine is the 191004. It is tough scratchy cloth.

This is ethandesu's version of the same cloth as mine (I believe) . . .


Love the look of the cloth in that photo.
post #2336 of 3928
Quote:
Originally Posted by poorsod View Post

The richness of the multi-tone blue Tonik is unmatched. It is similar to the Minnis 0520 but has a richer color. There are more shades in the book than listed on the site. You need to look at the book in real life. I think mine is the 191004. It is tough scratchy cloth.

This is ethandesu's version of the same cloth as mine (I believe) . . .


So, this is probably 191004 from the Tonik book? What's the general price of this range of Toniks these days?
post #2337 of 3928
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cantabrigian View Post

I like that style on Will more.

As a convert to teh Drape, I'd like a fit guy like Medtech to have more fullness in the chest of his jacket.

A not-so-fit guy is better off with a cleaner look IMO.

+ 1

post #2338 of 3928
Collected this from NSM today. I like the collar. Looks nice. Fit was okay, however. Hope that washing the shirt will help shrink it a little because the sleeves and body seem a little huge.

Have her this picture of Matuozzo's collar --

http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b328/mafoofan/mfanblog/matuozzoshirt/shirt4.jpg


post #2339 of 3928
Collar do look nice. With regards to the fit issue, was it your shirt from NSM?
I'm awaiting my first shirt from NSM, will be interesting to see about the result.
post #2340 of 3928
That collar looks fantastic...
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