my visit to Napoli & Mina @ Napoli Su Misura - Page 152

I wouldn't recommend Holland Sherry for their wool fabrics, but they have hefty 2 by 2 ply linens that are good, and there's visual interest on some of them (herringbone etc).

this is on all NSM jackets, take a closer look. You only have to back as far as Med tech's DB, same shoulder.


If I used only one line of cloth I would use Holland & Sherry. Especially their Super's, best in the market.

Interesting. I found them a little too shiny and 'modern' for me, and I didn't quite like the feel of them. I had a couple and found they wrinkle far too easily. Do they tailor up that well? Why do you like them so much?

 

Thanks, Cantabrigian. I have fairly large traps - at the fitting of my very first coat from NSM, Mina asked if I'd like some padding inserted to even out the shoulders. I suggested that she stick with the classic Neapolitan style she favors, and not make any modifications on my behalf.

 

The waviness doesn't bother me, as the vast majority of my stuff from NSM is tweed or linen sportcoats, which are more casual by nature. Perhaps I would rethink the shoulders for worsted business suits.

 

I'm not sure if Chris would agree, but I think while H&S is not the best at what they do, they are quite good and boast the most comprehensive selection of cloth. Other highly regarded cloth merchants are often only good in certain niches (Lesser / Smith - midweight worsteds, Minnis - lightweights / frescos, Harrisons - flannels, W. Bill - sportcoatings etc.)

Hm, this seems to be a fairly recent development, no? I don't think we saw that on any previously posted photos before MedTech's DB.

I have noticed however, that NSM's shoulders seem increasingly softer. Earlier examples had a concave, almost pagoda-like construction, whereas recent pictures show a more natural look.

Chris, do you know what's the cause of the wavy shoulder line?

Now that you mention it, I do see it on Medtech's. I'll have to look at my first coat from her when it comes back.

Kinda surprised to hear that.

I only have two suits from H&S - a Crispaire that I love and a worsted from the Perennial collection I believe. The latter is a navy twill. I picked it because that tailor didn't have many options. It wears fine but the color is somewhat lifeless.

Which H&S book / books are your favorite for suitings?

I'm a big fan of Harrison's heavier worsteds. I'd probably (slightly) prefer the Lesser* stuff but the colors and hand are great.


* the independent Lesser stuff - haven't seen new books post acquisition

 

Two different SR tailors complained recently that the new owners are cross-pollinating the Harrison's and Lesser offerings (i.e. slotting in the stock Harrison's cloth into Lesser books and upcharging accordingly). I haven't examined the new Lesser books in awhile, but this would be disappointing if true.

SR tailors do tend to push H & S cloth, however. I remember the first few times I asked for cloth suggestions, they almost always reached for the H & S books, and I had to ask for the Lessers, Smiths and Harrisons stuff which I prefer.

It's also true that H & S has a very comprehensive selection which might appeal to tailors, though the ones (out of the two) I have tend to be lifeless (for instance, Sloane Square -- their recent release -- which was also expensive (85 pounds/M + VAT). I'd be interested to know which cloth Chris favors however.

H&S always seems a bit fragile when I feel the swatches. The hand reminds me of more Italian cloth.

Used the current Mille Miglia bunch yet?

No, is that a 130's cloth?

The original Mille Miglia cloth from H&S around 1981 was a super 80's 10/11 ounce and one of the best cloths to work with.

Will expand later on other ranges I like.

Always been. It's more prominent on sloping shoulders. Have noticed this since she first appeared. Reminds me of the shape of the Nike swish logo.


Yes, I do

Can you expound?