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my visit to Napoli & Mina @ Napoli Su Misura - Page 144

post #2146 of 3368
11/12/12 at 4:35am
It was the fit across the back and where it connected to the armscye. It got solved by moving to pleats in the back rather than shirring, which is how the English shirt was made. There might have been other changes in dimesions, but that would be less visible to me.
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post #2147 of 3368
11/12/12 at 7:41am

Forgive this question, but what is the purpose for shirring, or pleats? It's different from darts, correct? Does it help to allow for a slimmer waist? Or?

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post #2148 of 3368
11/12/12 at 9:06am
Quote:
Originally Posted by dieworkwear View Post

Thanks, everyone. If anyone else can chime in, particularly with comparisons to other Neapolitan makers, that would be appreciated.
As for cost, VRaivio, you should probably check directly with NSM, as much depends on what you're looking for.

I have plenty of shirts from both NSM and Matuozzo, as well as other Neapolitan makers (Finamore, Borrelli etc.). Matuozzo is by far the best in terms of fit, fabric selection and craftmanship. However, for the price I think NSM are hard to beat. The problem for me with NSM shirts is that they lack some of the best fabrics (Riva, Anderson etc.) and that I cannot get the same soft collars as with Matuozzo. I buy from both Matuozzo and NSM and will probably continue to do so. The other Neapolitan makers I do not like as much, I think they are overpriced.
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post #2149 of 3368
11/12/12 at 9:10am
Quote:
Originally Posted by gusvs View Post

I have plenty of shirts from both NSM and Matuozzo, as well as other Neapolitan makers (Finamore, Borrelli etc.). Matuozzo is by far the best in terms of fit, fabric selection and craftmanship. However, for the price I think NSM are hard to beat. The problem for me with NSM shirts is that they lack some of the best fabrics (Riva, Anderson etc.) and that I cannot get the same soft collars as with Matuozzo. I buy from both Matuozzo and NSM and will probably continue to do so. The other Neapolitan makers I do not like as much, I think they are overpriced.

 

Informative. Thank you.

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post #2150 of 3368
11/12/12 at 9:21am
Quote:
Originally Posted by gusvs View Post

I have plenty of shirts from both NSM and Matuozzo, as well as other Neapolitan makers (Finamore, Borrelli etc.). Matuozzo is by far the best in terms of fit, fabric selection and craftmanship. However, for the price I think NSM are hard to beat. The problem for me with NSM shirts is that they lack some of the best fabrics (Riva, Anderson etc.) and that I cannot get the same soft collars as with Matuozzo. I buy from both Matuozzo and NSM and will probably continue to do so. The other Neapolitan makers I do not like as much, I think they are overpriced.
i don't know why you say this. I thought they did carry Riva (at least at some point) and certainly have some very high quality fabrics.
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post #2151 of 3368
11/12/12 at 10:32am
They used to carry Riva but not for quite a while.
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post #2152 of 3368
11/12/12 at 10:51am
Quote:
Originally Posted by dopey View Post

i don't know why you say this. I thought they did carry Riva (at least at some point) and certainly have some very high quality fabrics.

They used to have Riva, but stopped after Riva's price increase last year.
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post #2153 of 3368
11/12/12 at 11:16am
Quote:
Originally Posted by gusvs View Post

I have plenty of shirts from both NSM and Matuozzo, as well as other Neapolitan makers (Finamore, Borrelli etc.). Matuozzo is by far the best in terms of fit, fabric selection and craftmanship. However, for the price I think NSM are hard to beat. The problem for me with NSM shirts is that they lack some of the best fabrics (Riva, Anderson etc.) and that I cannot get the same soft collars as with Matuozzo. I buy from both Matuozzo and NSM and will probably continue to do so. The other Neapolitan makers I do not like as much, I think they are overpriced.

When they attempt a soft collar, is their default a non-fused collar?
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post #2154 of 3368
11/12/12 at 11:20am
Quote:
Originally Posted by gusvs View Post

They used to have Riva, but stopped after Riva's price increase last year.
Too bad. i guess I got in early enough.
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post #2155 of 3368
11/12/12 at 11:21am
Quote:
Originally Posted by dopey View Post

i don't know why you say this. I thought they did carry Riva (at least at some point) and certainly have some very high quality fabrics.

On their recent tour, they mainly used TM Goldline and they brought a couple books of Italian fabrics, whose name fails me. Not Riva.
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post #2156 of 3368
11/12/12 at 11:29am
Quote:
Originally Posted by bboysdontcryy View Post

When they attempt a soft collar, is their default a non-fused collar?

Not sure about their default, but my softest collars from NSM are quite different from Matuozzo.
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post #2157 of 3368
11/12/12 at 11:32am
Interesting discussion regaring NSM shirts. I ordered my first shirt this past weekend and it will be interesting to see how it turns out.
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post #2158 of 3368
11/12/12 at 11:54am
Quote:
Originally Posted by dieworkwear View Post

Curious, does anyone have first hand experience with Mina's house style shirts, as well as other Italian tailors, such as Siviglia, Matuozzo, Satriano Cingque, etc? Can anyone give comparisons?

Sounds like you're casting a pretty wide net so I'd also include Francesco Merolla - Gabriella L'ero's former partner.

I have no experience with either since I wasn't able to set up an appointment with Satriano 5 while I was in Naples.

I have half an experience with Sivligia and they're certainly (and proudly) the odd one out in that group.
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post #2159 of 3368
11/12/12 at 1:11pm

I don't have any NSM shirt but from what i've seen in this post,

 

http://www.styleforum.net/t/207054/my-visit-to-napoli-mina-napoli-su-misura/405#post_4066803

 

idea of trimming clothes doesn't really give a great result, not at all. I got recently a couple of shirts from Matuozzo and she did the fitting last time i was there, it was really great.

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post #2160 of 3368
11/13/12 at 5:14pm
Looking forward to seeing mina and dino next month...
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