my visit to Napoli & Mina @ Napoli Su Misura - Page 127

^^^ That picture is 

What's the purpose of a curtained waistband?

Do bigtimers really do this?

Theft or flooding could be covered under homeowners/renter's insurance. But what about damage from accidents?

What do you do, bigtimers?



I plan on making a jacket shoulder pr0n thread soon. Ready your pictures!

Explanation 1.2

There actually is a purpose served by the curtain. It is a protective layer between the banroll stiffener in the waistband, which is rather coarse, if your skin was to be in contact with it. There also is a bit of artistic design to it that varies with tailors to create an attractive interior finish to the trouser. Some curtain construction is very simple and some are multi layered and require multiple steps to construct.

The looser the waistband, the deeper the quicksand
Or so I have read.

hey Bill, whenever you wear the new pants, please take some pictures and post them. im very curious to see how they would look

Sure. The cut is pretty much like this:

How does that lighter weight Fresco wear?

I just ordered something from Chan in that cloth, but am worried that I should have gone for the 2-ply stuff. The softness of the lighter stuff was what made the decision for me.

It wears fine. I have suits in it the 8/9.

What's your opinion on mohair blend wools vs fresco wools in the summer. I was under the impression that fresco was the best, but this Richard James interview recommends mohair blends:

http://www.gq-magazine.co.uk/style/articles/2010-08/20/gq-style-news-personal-style-fashion-richard-james

Both can have a bit of coarseness in the hand. Mohairs are blended with wool and a lot depends on the quality of the wool it is matched with. Some are very smooth, others less so. Mohair has a dressier finish and look and can have a natural luster to a high sheen. Fresco is more a matte finish. Fresco won't look as dressy as a mohair and mohair probably won't ever look as rustic (might be a better word for that but it escapes me at present) as fresco.

My favorite mohairs were fantastic shades of tan or pale green, sometimes with stripes, but I haven't seen those since the 80's. I keep a light weight navy mohair on hand for dressy summer occasions. One favorite of mine was the very darkest brown mohair, almost black, DB suit. It was great. The trouser split as mohair has been known to do. The fabric can crack when it gets dried out. Similar shade of the dark brown is available in Minis Fresco. Making two of them for clients now. One DB, one SB, both with triple patch pockets.

Have not worn fresco myself.

FWIW, one tailor mentioned to me that everyone of his clients that ordered a suit in mohair later regretted it due to the "itchiness." No first-hand experience myself.