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my visit to Napoli & Mina @ Napoli Su Misura - Page 13

post #181 of 3961
Quote:
Originally Posted by teddieriley View Post
^^Are you talking about the iphones or the restrooms?

Was talking about the brown guys, but indeed those are soem nice phones and washrooms.
post #182 of 3961
Quote:
Originally Posted by alliswell View Post
I have this as "But it's fun to rub their bellies!" - any better translation?

It reads "but he's awake/smart when you polish their bellies".
post #183 of 3961
I have to say - I'm a little bit scared by the super high gorge and the sciamat-like shoulder seams... I did ask for a lower notch and a really natural shoulder seam but who will only know in a few days what it looks like. If it looks like this, I hope it won't be too late to fix it.
post #184 of 3961
What Dino was wearing today was about the same as the DeBoise that I was wearing, and I used both jackets to illustrate what I preferred. Dino's jacket looked really good, albeit more lean than I like. I'm waiting for the baste fitting to see if the degree of shrinkwrapping needs to be dialed back.

- B
post #185 of 3961
Quote:
Originally Posted by voxsartoria View Post
What Dino was wearing today was about the same as the DeBoise that I was wearing, and I used both jackets to illustrate what I preferred. Dino's jacket looked really good, albeit more lean than I like. I'm waiting for the baste fitting to see if the degree of shrinkwrapping needs to be dialed back. - B
What kind of jacket was Dino wearing today? It looked different than a 3 to 2 roll that I am accustomed to. Would you mind explaining the name for the style of his jacket? Thanks. -LR
post #186 of 3961
Quote:
Originally Posted by gdl203 View Post
I have to say - I'm a little bit scared by the super high gorge and the sciamat-like shoulder seams... I did ask for a lower notch and a really natural shoulder seam but who will only know in a few days what it looks like. If it looks like this, I hope it won't be too late to fix it.

Mine is a little tight but I don't mind the slightly puffy sleeves. I'm wondering if I should wait for it to break it or if I should see if I can make adjustments now.
post #187 of 3961
Quote:
Originally Posted by voxsartoria View Post
What Dino was wearing today was about the same as the DeBoise that I was wearing, and I used both jackets to illustrate what I preferred. Dino's jacket looked really good, albeit more lean than I like. I'm waiting for the baste fitting to see if the degree of shrinkwrapping needs to be dialed back.
- B

It will.
post #188 of 3961
Quote:
Originally Posted by ljrcustom View Post
What kind of jacket was Dino wearing today? It looked different than a 3 to 2 roll that I am accustomed to. Would you mind explaining the name for the style of his jacket? Thanks.

-LR

Hmmm...not sure that I can answer this question well. It seemed like type of jacket that I associate with good Neapolitan bespoke make.

- A Glen plaid in what seemed like an Italian fabric.

- 3 roll 2, with the top buttonhole finished on the show side. Lapel buttonhole was a bit keyhole-y, and not the nice teardrop that you see on, say, a Ruby

- two front darts, an underarm cut up to the armhole and one in the chest.

- lean chest

- curved fronts, double vents

- soft shoulders, shirtsleeve attachment

- fine pic stitching on edges, lapped seams everywhere topstitched by hand...these details were very nice, and done better than the second-hand Solito that I have.

That's what I observed. What did you see?


- B
post #189 of 3961
Quote:
Originally Posted by Manton View Post
It will.

Probably. I want her to do her thing first, though, rather than go in with both Drapist guns blasting.

Honestly, my main fear long term is how well she seems to be doing. It's not a trivial thing to haul a volume of clothes back and forth from Naples for two or three fittings each.

I suggested possible solutions to her... I think it would be great to have a reliable conduit in addition to Rubinacci. We'll discuss more on her next leg in Boston.

She's very motivated. I was impressed...I like people who have a interesting goal.


- B
post #190 of 3961
Wow, you are very precise. I appreciate the response. What really threw me off was how the the lapel button hole was on the show side. I am not used to this at all. On all the jackets that I have the lapel button hole is not seen unless you turn the lapel. The rest of what you described is pretty close to what I can recall from meeting with Dino and Mina today. For jackets that they are making for you, will the lapel button be on the show side, like Dino's or will it be hidden as I mentioned.

-LR

Quote:
Originally Posted by voxsartoria View Post
Hmmm...not sure that I can answer this question well. It seemed like type of jacket that I associate with good Neapolitan bespoke make.

- A Glen plaid in what seemed like an Italian fabric.

- 3 roll 2, with the top buttonhole finished on the show side. Lapel buttonhole was a bit keyhole-y, and not the nice teardrop that you see on, say, a Ruby

- two front darts, an underarm cut up to the armhole and one in the chest.

- lean chest

- curved fronts, double vents

- soft shoulders, shirtsleeve attachment

- fine pic stitching on edges, lapped seams everywhere topstitched by hand...these details were very nice, and done better than the second-hand Solito that I have.

That's what I observed. What did you see?


- B
post #191 of 3961
Quote:
Originally Posted by Manton View Post
It will.

Where did you find areas for adjustment?

I figured that the chest was going to be lean during the fitting but I didn't realize the slimness of the sleeves. I think the added bulk of the sleeve lining to an already tapered sleeve is really what I'm feeling at "tight". This is least noticeable when I'm wearing a slim shirt.
post #192 of 3961
vox - that's so generous of you to impart some of your wisdom (at no fee, I assume?). She must be thrilled.
post #193 of 3961
Quote:
Originally Posted by ljrcustom View Post
Wow, you are very precise. I appreciate the response. What really threw me off was how the the lapel button hole was on the show side. I am not used to this at all. On all the jackets that I have the lapel button hole is not seen unless you turn the lapel. The rest of what you described is pretty close to what I can recall from meeting with Dino and Mina today. For jackets that they are making for you, will the lapel button be on the show side, like Dino's or will it be hidden as I mentioned.

-LR

That's what a 3 roll 2 is: the lapel rolls past the top button/buttonhole down to the middle. By doing so, the top buttonhole is, well, flipped over nearly entirely. A nice effect is when the lapel rolls through a bit of that top buttonhole, braking up the line. True on a Brooks No. 1. True on an A&S. And true for this buttoning on Italian jackets. On a hand sewn buttonhole, therefore, you want the finished side to be the opposite of the bottom two, unless you have a double finished hole like Oxxford does (used to?)


- B
post #194 of 3961
Quote:
Originally Posted by gdl203 View Post
vox - that's so generous of you to impart some of your wisdom (at no fee, I assume?). She must be thrilled.

As thrilled as you are when I impart my wisdom to you.


- B
post #195 of 3961
Quote:
Originally Posted by voxsartoria View Post
As thrilled as you are when I impart my wisdom to you.
Sorry about that
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