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my visit to Napoli & Mina @ Napoli Su Misura - Page 84

post #1246 of 3926
Quote:
Originally Posted by F. Corbera View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by dopey View Post

More of a Barcaccia
409

Hmmm...would look good with a Tammis Keefe hanky.

Like maybe this Tammis Keefe original of the Unruly Reindeer288
post #1247 of 3926
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Edited by F. Corbera - 10/28/11 at 2:09pm
post #1248 of 3926
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Edited by F. Corbera - 10/28/11 at 3:44am
post #1249 of 3926
I can't decide if this discussion is enligtening or surreal. Either way: Hippo melons breed walnuts.
post #1250 of 3926
Quote:
Originally Posted by Despos View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by Cravate_Noire View Post

Well, it's a barchetta, but one that is sinking (like most), put it that way.
Of course it is always cut and sewn, but most companies get in the lion's share shape by ironing (sorry Despos, the same is the case for curverd patch pockets) and sometimes by a difference in height between the left and the right edge of the breast pocket welt (as cutting and sewing a perfectly even, real curve is not that easy...I mean if it was, why didnt they just do it for all of these barchettas one sees today?).
It is is easier and less time consuming than starting with the premise of making a perfectly even curve at the bottom and exact same width at the edges by cutting and sweing alone.


http://fcorbera.smugmug.com/photos/i-3cR4rBM/0/O/i-3cR4rBM.jpg

Both are not superb IMHO, the left one is pretty straight at the bottom and from the middle the "curve" is a straight line pointing upwards, the edges are also obviously of quite a different width.
It lies flat on the chest (what I would consider as an objective construction mistake, when the curved welt lies flat on the chest when the jacket liies flat it will not adjust perfectly to the shape of the chest when worn), the one on the right is pretty straight and and at one point suddenly jumps into a curve.

Thanks for the attention and waisting your lifetime reading about ulgy curved breast pockets.

But the pocket is not made flat to the chest in real workrooms. The pocket is made on the curved edge of a half moon. That's the way we baste the pipes on the lower pockets too.

If you hold up a front (the I way I prepare one) by the shoulder, the front will assume the natural curve of the body on it's own without any coaxing.



That's what I said, eh?!

Is coaxing another term for sniffing snow?
post #1251 of 3926
Quote:
Originally Posted by Manton View Post

I looked at my Solito pocket just now. The vertical sides are not quite parallel but the inward one is not canted all that much either. It's nicely curved otherwise and I have nothing else to say on this topic except that I like it.

Most tailors do not control the curve with a pattern when they prepoare/cut it, they just make it freehand, so they often turn out differenty.
You may like that or not, like you may prefer a more "artistic" approach vs a more precise make (it is for sure more old school).

Anyway they just dont care in Naples, if you knew how much some of the big (but not only) names offer to other tailors to make bespoke items for them because they cant cope themselves with the demand, you'd eat a broomstick.
And if you knew how many tailors accept to do this for the offered salaries and then even cant pay their workshop's rent and employees on time (and tax-wise make ca.2 suits per year) , you'd eat another one.
Especially for pants it's really ugly, if you order pants that are complicated and un-neapolitan enough, I know exactly who is going to receive a phone call with the request to make them (except you order them at Rubi, there's no need to ride any further on their reputation, but they are one of the few makers doing everything themselves for bespoke, though the bespoke pants dont match the bespoke jackets' in quality IMHO).
Anyone did ever notice that they (being about all Neapolitan tailors) basically just turn outside pleats to the inside in Naples to make pants with inverse pleats and do not adjust the cut??

I'm just sayin...it's not exactly paradise for most of the tailors in Naples.
post #1252 of 3926
Quote:
Originally Posted by UrbanComposition View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by F. Corbera View Post

Just sayin'. Not every little sailboat needs to be exaggerated.

But then how else will people notice my commission? If my pick-stitching is understated & moderate, then dammit, the general populace will know that the angle of my barchetta was handmade by a blind master tailor against his better judgement.
Quote:
Originally Posted by F. Corbera View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by forex View Post

What the hell are you guys talking about?

Well, two things.

1. Welt breast pockets.

2. The neverending, eternal e-question of la vera sartoria napoletana.
Quote:
Originally Posted by UrbanComposition View Post

But then how else will people notice my commission? If my pick-stitching is understated & moderate, then dammit, the general populace will know that the angle of my barchetta was handmade by a blind master tailor against his better judgement.

smile.gif Few non-Italian iGents have the hang time in Naples like Hans und Franz. Maybe T4 and Poo, but J. is more upscale and might only eat seafood in the Spanish Quarter. And by seafood, I am not being figurative.

So, Cravate's critique is interesting (to me at least) and I take it seriously.

Do I really care about this detail? Not very much...but not zero either.




The vera antica Napoletanan blabla is not really interesting too me as it is full of defects of which some transformed into "features" for many people.
I like some of these things, just as I like my old German tailro who cuts a too small and unsophisticated back or the Florentine guy who make a suit like in 1950.
If you want the real thing go an old tailor and respect it when he puts his "signature" on the suit, otherwise there are enough alternatives to nit pick (I have that one, funnily enough, in Naples).
This barchetta thing is merely technical for me, just like the cuffs of many Ambrosi pants I have seen were technically not well made for me (cut straight from the tapering leg of the pants, so causing slight bunching where the top of the cuffs meet the pants leg as the cuffs were narrower at this place than the pants' leg; can be seen very well in some Korean blogs).

There is a reason why they call me cazzo de cazzi shog[1].gif.
post #1253 of 3926


i-C7TJR98-X2.jpg

post #1254 of 3926
Vox, that is insanely awesome.
post #1255 of 3926
This might be all wrong but I think I would do flap pockets on a cord suit. I cannot explain this impulse.

IMO, the coat above looks more like Solito than like my (one) NSM.
post #1256 of 3926
Mmmm...corduroy suit...

I have a lighter version of that color waiting in the wings to be made into my second cord suit at some point. I was thinking 2 patch with welt breast like this or standard flap pockets. Decisions, decisions...
post #1257 of 3926
Quote:
Originally Posted by Slewfoot View Post

Mmmm...corduroy suit...
I have a lighter version of that color waiting in the wings to be made into my second cord suit at some point. I was thinking 2 patch with welt breast like this or standard flap pockets. Decisions, decisions...

I feel like Cord calls for patch pockets. I really couldn't imagine it any other way.
post #1258 of 3926
Quote:
Originally Posted by Newcomer View Post

I feel like Cord calls for patch pockets. I really couldn't imagine it any other way.

I'm leaning towards that as well. The only thing really stopping me is that my tan tweed sportcoat is already done with two patch and welt breast. Might be nice to have some variation with the two tan winter jackets I would have, but we'll see.
post #1259 of 3926
Quote:
Originally Posted by F. Corbera View Post

[url]http://youtu.be/QVS3WNt7yRU[/yrl]
i-C7TJR98-X2.jpg
http://youtu.be/WZmlBTgaLEI

Yep, that's the one that I checked out in Mina and Dino's suite. I hope that Mina was able to remove all of the drool prior to delivering it to you. If not, I apologize. You can feel free to send me the first dry cleaning bill.

Aaron
post #1260 of 3926
I also like cord jackets with flaps, maybe even Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
hacking
pockets. I don't know, something very British countryside / hunting & fishing to them that work well with flaps
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