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my visit to Napoli & Mina @ Napoli Su Misura - Page 83

post #1231 of 3926
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cravate_Noire View Post

Well, it's a barchetta, but one that is sinking (like most), put it that way.
Of course it is always cut and sewn, but most companies get in the lion's share shape by ironing (sorry Despos, the same is the case for curverd patch pockets) and sometimes by a difference in height between the left and the right edge of the breast pocket welt (as cutting and sewing a perfectly even, real curve is not that easy...I mean if it was, why didnt they just do it for all of these barchettas one sees today?).
It is is easier and less time consuming than starting with the premise of making a perfectly even curve at the bottom and exact same width at the edges by cutting and sweing alone.


http://fcorbera.smugmug.com/photos/i-3cR4rBM/0/O/i-3cR4rBM.jpg

Both are not superb IMHO, the left one is pretty straight at the bottom and from the middle the "curve" is a straight line pointing upwards, the edges are also obviously of quite a different width.
It lies flat on the chest (what I would consider as an objective construction mistake, when the curved welt lies flat on the chest when the jacket liies flat it will not adjust perfectly to the shape of the chest when worn), the one on the right is pretty straight and and at one point suddenly jumps into a curve.

Thanks for the attention and waisting your lifetime reading about ulgy curved breast pockets.

Huh!! Would you please repeat this, I was thinking of what I want to say next and didn't listen.
post #1232 of 3926
Quote:
Originally Posted by F. Corbera View Post

. . . A clarification, however: the welt on mine does not lie flat. The photo above has material bunched underneath. Here are two photographs with the chest pulled flat:
i-Rw4J4pR-L.jpg
i-wV9TjHK-XL.jpg
[All photographs clickable for larger versions]

Spherochromatism is not just a river in Egypt.
post #1233 of 3926
Quote:
Originally Posted by F. Corbera View Post

Chris, Hans and Franz: thank you.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Despos View Post

Well, there is a bit of stretching but it is the cloth that is folded over the top edge of pocket. Since the pocket top edge is curved the folded over cloth is strteched to sort of fan out on the inside/backside of the pocket. There is no stretching on the face of the pocket. That's a silly notion, stretching with an iron would distort the lines of any pattern in the cloth and the pocket would not look pretty.

I understand exactly what you are saying.

It's highly probable you may be the first!

While we are on the subject, I'm curious of your opinion. Do you think the Doobie Brothers were , better, worse or about the same with Michael Mcdonald?

Did you catch my phrasing, I learned this from opthamology school.
post #1234 of 3926
.
Edited by F. Corbera - 10/27/11 at 8:35pm
post #1235 of 3926
Quote:
Originally Posted by dopey View Post

Spherochromatism is not just a river in Egypt.

Not all lenses are good enough for SF, but this one might be:

http://diglloyd.com/articles/CoastalOptics60f4/apo.html

_DSC_561x-APO_compare-Coastal-f4.jpg
post #1236 of 3926
I looked at my Solito pocket just now. The vertical sides are not quite parallel but the inward one is not canted all that much either. It's nicely curved otherwise and I have nothing else to say on this topic except that I like it.
post #1237 of 3926
.
Edited by F. Corbera - 10/27/11 at 8:36pm
post #1238 of 3926
What the hell are you guys talking about?
post #1239 of 3926
Quote:
Originally Posted by F. Corbera View Post

Just sayin'. Not every little sailboat needs to be exaggerated.

But then how else will people notice my commission? If my pick-stitching is understated & moderate, then dammit, the general populace will know that the angle of my barchetta was handmade by a blind master tailor against his better judgement.
post #1240 of 3926
More of a Barcaccia
409
post #1241 of 3926
^ Solaro from Caraceni Roma, thank you dopey

and looks like a DB
post #1242 of 3926
.
Edited by F. Corbera - 10/28/11 at 3:41am
post #1243 of 3926
.
Edited by F. Corbera - 10/28/11 at 3:42am
post #1244 of 3926
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cravate_Noire View Post

Well, it's a barchetta, but one that is sinking (like most), put it that way.
Of course it is always cut and sewn, but most companies get in the lion's share shape by ironing (sorry Despos, the same is the case for curverd patch pockets) and sometimes by a difference in height between the left and the right edge of the breast pocket welt (as cutting and sewing a perfectly even, real curve is not that easy...I mean if it was, why didnt they just do it for all of these barchettas one sees today?).
It is is easier and less time consuming than starting with the premise of making a perfectly even curve at the bottom and exact same width at the edges by cutting and sweing alone.


http://fcorbera.smugmug.com/photos/i-3cR4rBM/0/O/i-3cR4rBM.jpg

Both are not superb IMHO, the left one is pretty straight at the bottom and from the middle the "curve" is a straight line pointing upwards, the edges are also obviously of quite a different width.
It lies flat on the chest (what I would consider as an objective construction mistake, when the curved welt lies flat on the chest when the jacket liies flat it will not adjust perfectly to the shape of the chest when worn), the one on the right is pretty straight and and at one point suddenly jumps into a curve.

Thanks for the attention and waisting your lifetime reading about ulgy curved breast pockets.

But the pocket is not made flat to the chest in real workrooms. The pocket is made on the curved edge of a half moon. That's the way we baste the pipes on the lower pockets too.

If you hold up a front (the I way I prepare one) by the shoulder, the front will assume the natural curve of the body on it's own without any coaxing.
post #1245 of 3926
Quote:
Originally Posted by Despos View Post

^ Solaro from Caraceni Roma, thank you dopey
and looks like a DB

Prego, e si.
Quote:
Originally Posted by F. Corbera View Post

Hmmm...would look good with a Tammis Keefe hanky.
smile.gif I have just the one.
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